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Daddy will I Dream?.. Yes Roxxane, you will


ChadC

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Roger that...you've rocketed way past anything I might try, and I am rooting for ya Brutha! Keep the pic's and updates coming. Can't wait to see and hear it when she's all tweaked and twerkin'!

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Sunday Update

well I had a friend come over. He and i discussed and agreed with trying a pinch cooler spark plugs and the non Iriduim style. so I changed out from the TR6 iriduium NGK to TR55 units.

well when pulling out #5 (the problem child) we found this

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that ladies and gents is a cracked spark plug.

im to amateur to have seen it. I thought it was a simple grease mark.

Life lesson learned.

so we swapped out the plugs and went for a drive.

...WOO HO NO CODES!!!!

holey shit! she pulls like a raped Ape on meth with AIDS!!

Ill drive her again to night to confirm my results, but im moving on to the next road test stage.

Road trip up to Prescott.

on a different note

I wanted to see how much oil was in the new catch can that Charlie /black n blue installed.

Ill be making a P O R N move with what I saw in the catch can.

Ill call it

Two bolts One cup

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apparently charlie never removed the bolts from inside the unit, and I never opened it up to confirm.

life is awesome some times. :)

I never laugh so hard before.

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I guess Charlie leaving his bolts is better than him leaving his nuts :lol

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I would swap back to tr6s. 55 is too hot of a plug for a ls7 factory, let alone with a blower. Glad you found the issue.

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I would say it all depends on how fat the car is under boost and how much timing is in the tune.

They are a little hotter than the TR6, but if it is fat under boost (canned safe tune), I do not anticipate there will be issues. Best bet is to pull them and take a look in a few hundred miles.

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I would run the NGK BR7EF 3346 is the part number. Best bet for boosted/ nitrous cars. inb4 a novel explaining why it's a not a bad idea but unneeded. I'll just post my response now, Nic D prefers the BR7's on any boosted/ nitrous application yes the tr6's work fine but go with what the top tuner says to run and gives plenty of valid reasons as to why. #endthread #highhpproblems #justdoit

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I had a feeling it was something simple man....Glad to hear that it's going in teh right direction! :shifter:

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easy guys I dont need to start a race war :)

ok let me take a step back for those reading on the UN counsel.

For this conversation NGK makes 3 tiers of spark plugs

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I had the more 'premium' line of Iridium. More money so it should be better right?

not always.

Look at the tip difference in between the Iridium and the V-Power.

Nick ( by proxy of Joe@cpr.com) and my friend both suggest the V-power line.

so THAT is what I got installed. TR55 V-Power plugs.

the ONLY difference from Nick D and what I have installed right now is the temperature range. TR55 vs TR7. They are BOTH the V-power line

Now on to the PLUG TEMPERATURE. TR55 is warm, while the TR6 is colder, and the TR7 is colder still.

regardless of temperature the plug will still deliver the electrical charge, however it needs to be at 932*F to 1472*F to be happy ( a self cleaning action happens to keep the tip clean).

if to cold (below 932*F) carbon fouling will occur.

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if too hot (above 1472*F) overheating of the plug can happen

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this can be a slippery slope. if too much overheating happens then this could lead to pre-iginition and engine damage.

for Reference

LS3/LS2 corvettes use TR5 temperature

LS9 supercharged engines use TR5 temperature

LS7 corvettes use TR6 temperature

I have installed the TR55 temperature.

My temperature range of TR55 is not out of sight, so we shall see.

NGK plugs have a 1 - 12 scale temp range.

While not to insult UNREAL, TWO SNAILS, or JOE@CPR.COM. you guys have no ideal what temperature my combustion chamber is. How can you?

..that is unless you have superpowers?

..do you watch me shower in the morning?

there is no earthly way to know precisely WHAT is the correct Temperature Range for my car.

the Smart move is to run it like this for a few hundred miles and pull the plugs to see what they look like. if they look like overheating, then ill go cooler. each plug is only $2.95, not a big expense to change plugs.

and for those that dont have superpowers this is what you are missing in the morning.

#chad_shower

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Happy to hear you got it running right, now save the tires because the clutch is stock... :lol

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I've got to agree with Parker on this issue .... have never been a fan of the "bolt-on / one size fits all" concept .... every motor is different .....so run em for a while and see what they look like ,,,,

EDIT ..... you guys are postin faster then I can type ..... You're on the mark Cahd man !!! ( this said with no hash tags ... so back theF off )

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I agree on the testing of parts when it's an unknown combo but your setup is not magical and there is lots of data available on what works and what doesn't. I am not wanting to come off as defensive as I truly like how this thread is helping educate many people in areas that many may not know. Just when it comes to this we know what works and so does Steve at lpm hence why they always stock those plugs like we do to. Nic has solid reasoning for wanting us to use them in boosted/n20 applications. At your power level it's not as big of a deal but when you get to the hp levels of what some push it is critical. So long story short is your fine with the tr6 but if you came to me and we did it you would be getting br7's installed as that's what I feel is best for your application. I was being a big ol smart-ass with my last post so I do apologize, lets continue on the discussions.

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.... I was being a big ol smart-ass with my last post so I do apologize, lets continue on the discussions.

no apology needed bud :thumbs

you are swharing your knowledge n smarts n stuff. and thats whats ACE is about.

#groupHug #Frenz4ever #uBsmart #weAreCoolBro

for my medium term goals after driving her with this 'stock' configuration, is to add;

-Headers

-Dyno tune

-Replace up stream 02

and

possible boost a pump and/or smaller pulley (probably not tho).

regardless of the boost a pump, ill replace the plugs to match the fueling/spark at the dyno tune, if not already done beforehand.

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Two bolts One cup

Posted Image

apparently charlie never removed the bolts from inside the unit, and I never opened it up to confirm.

life is awesome some times. :)

I never laugh so hard before.

That's 2 screws & a washer. Who the F--- leaves that shit in there anyhow? :lol

Good to ear she's running without any issues.

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...looks like the guy in post #275 was on to something! Glad to hear the computer has stopped squawking...

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The way I look at it if something like a BR7 type plug does not affect driveability and won't foul out why not run a cooler plug and be safer. It's less of a chance for something to get hot enough to light off the mixture early. I ran BR7EFs in my truck for 30k miles just because I was lazy and didn't like changing plugs and they never once had a single problem or ever fouled out even though I left them in way too long. I do like the iridium TR7IX for something like your application here in AZ if you don't want to change plugs as often as you would with copper plugs and that's what I use in my supercharged GXP. LS7s are sensitive to heat and with that big heat pump on top why not error on the side of caution? It's certainly not going to make it run bad, etc. I would not be running a TR55 however, TR6 or TR6IX at a minimum.

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The way I look at it if something like a BR7 type plug does not affect driveability and won't foul out why not run a cooler plug and be safer. It's less of a chance for something to get hot enough to light off the mixture early. I ran BR7EFs in my truck for 30k miles just because I was lazy and didn't like changing plugs and they never once had a single problem or ever fouled out even though I left them in way too long. I do like the iridium TR7IX for something like your application here in AZ if you don't want to change plugs as often as you would with copper plugs and that's what I use in my supercharged GXP. LS7s are sensitive to heat and with that big heat pump on top why not error on the side of caution? It's certainly not going to make it run bad, etc. I would not be running a TR55 however, TR6 or TR6IX at a minimum.

This is pretty much what I wrote last night, but decided not to post it.

No reason to run a plug that hot. It doesn't take superpowers to know that is not the correct plug. A mild bolt on ls7 runs great with a tr6/6ix. Your car is making more power, more cylinder pressure than a 480-500rwhp car. A colder plug will be safer and less prone to knock. No reason to not run a colder plug unless they start fouling out and on a 11:1 boosted car, I would want it to be as safe as possible.

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well I just back back for a 200+mi drive up to Prescott and im calling this project

DONE!!

Roxxane ran like a champ!!.

since I put on the SC this is my millage

millage.jpg

no leaks, no drama, no codes. IM STOKED!!

here are the Angels point at my big package (performance package that is..)

finished.jpg

driving impressions:

0 to 2000 rpm it drive like a stock Z06. no extra noise, no vibration. plain jaine normal.

from 2000 to 5000.. sweet JESUS on a rubber crutch.

it just pulls like a train.

At 120mph+ it has power, but not god like.

from 30MPH to 90mph it just rockets off like squeezing a wet bar of soap in a shower.

If i had to do this all over again, what would I do different?

there are some places that charge $600 for the install. damm.... for $600 this was a lot of work.

I enjoyed the process and the bonding with my car. I have no regrets.

​I would have been more through in the parts checklist before i started. I was missing several bits from E-Force.

other wise im very happy with the results.

thank you all for your comments and watching this thread. This was a learning process and a lot of fun.

a special THANK YOU to my minion helpers Charlie/BLK n BLUE and Donna/CHAMELION

you guys were awesome!!!

minionshardatwork.jpg

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