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Our '77 Project


AdamMeh

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Bromley's Corvettes

I love how 275/60s look on the back of C-3s. They fill up the wheel well better Posted Image

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We took our first "official" cruise yesterday. Car ran great - cruised around for a little over an hour with no issues. Success! :partydance: Man this thing is fun to drive :3gears:

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Bromley's Corvettes
Posted Image they are fun to drive thats what got me hooked. I started fixing up a 81 for my mom and was like maybe I should get a vette too lol. That was about 18 years ago.
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  • 3 weeks later...

My new headlight actuator relay and actuator seal kits showed up today. Hoping these will fix up the headlight system. :partydance: Shooting for Saturday, but with the holidays coming up, the weekends are getting pretty busy. We've been out for a couple of cruises and so far it's been running well. Lots of work to do yet, but it seems to be pretty drivable now which is awesome. :thumbs Adam

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Well, we now have headlights that open and close with the switch and the bypass under the dash :partydance: Simple job really, just hard to get at the relays and actuators. Vacuum tank has a leak so I bypassed that for now. Will need to do some pressure testing on it and see if I can find the leak. Once more thing checked off the list! Adam

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Good on ya Adam, popup headlights are no fun if they don't popup or if you have to drive at night... Well actually having popup headlights that don't work at night can be fun too, but thats for another thread. :hat

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Well actually having popup headlights that don't work at night can be fun too, but thats for another thread. :hat

:3gears:

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  • 9 months later...

So, it's been awhile since we posted up. Wasn't much happening during the hot months, but it's finally starting to cool off a little so I'm hoping to get a few things done.

First will be to address the "was working, now isn't" items. :facepalm: Typical process with any old car. The headlights have ceased to open again. Suspect the replacement relay has crapped out, also possible that the actuators (which I put seal kits in) may also be going south. Next Saturday will be diagnostics day for that.

DS window would hardly move and the crank just started spinning on the regulator shaft. Took the door apart, cleaned out the "grease" from under the regulator cover (which now resembled chunks of dried up rubber), packed it full of new grease, spray lubed all the moving parts, and the window rolls up and down really well now. Still fighting the window crank just spinning on the shaft. I suspect that these aftermarket handles have grooves which are cut too shallow. If I push the handle in, the crank works perfect - let go and it won't engage the teeth on the regulator shaft. Hoping to find a factory window crank handle to compare with. The other possiblity is the regulator shaft has a little too much play and is pushing in just enough that the handle can't grab it. Getting good at taking the door panels off lol

Also have been fighting belt squeal since day one of the new motor startup. After trying 3 different brand belts, replacing the PS pump, etc. etc., I was finally able to fix the belt squeal issue by adding in a belt from the water pump to the crank (where the AC belt would have gone). Found a diagram in the owners manual that showed non-AC cars using this setup. Guess I know why now.

The other issue that popped up is the gas gauge - one of only a few parts on this car that worked correctly when we got it. It now reads past full when I fill the car, and is not dropping much as I drive it. Topped it off the other day which took almost 6 gallons and the gauge was still showing just a little under the full mark. Time to get out the multi-meter and see what I can find.

Fun, fun, fun! :spinin:

Adam

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Always something eh ??? But isn't that what make it sooo fun ????

Your belt issue mite be one of alignment ... we've seen a couple where just some spacing on say the alternator cured the problem .... in looking at the pix you posted a while back, it was hard to really tell .... thank God you don't have to deal with an AC compressor as well ....

On the gas gauge, you mite check (if you can) the float in the tanks ... they have a tendency to stick every now and again ... if you can get down in the tank through the filler, you may be able to grab the float arm with a coat hanger or something and move it up and down ...??? Don't remember if yours is open at the top ..???

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Always something eh ??? But isn't that what make it sooo fun ????

Your belt issue mite be one of alignment ... we've seen a couple where just some spacing on say the alternator cured the problem .... in looking at the pix you posted a while back, it was hard to really tell .... thank God you don't have to deal with an AC compressor as well ....

On the gas gauge, you mite check (if you can) the float in the tanks ... they have a tendency to stick every now and again ... if you can get down in the tank through the filler, you may be able to grab the float arm with a coat hanger or something and move it up and down ...??? Don't remember if yours is open at the top ..???

The belt issue was fixed by using the owners manual belt "guide" for a non-AC car. All non-AC cars came with a "fan belt" which ran from the WP to the crank pulley. Since I added that no more issues. Everything was aligned well, so I wasn't concerned with that really. Drove the car about 50 miles round trip on the freeway yesterday, and no squeal or rubber smell from the belts. I'm satisfied with that fix now that it's been tested well.

Did some testing on the fuel gauge yesterday. I have aprx. 3/4 of a tank in it (this is a rough guess) and the ohm reading I got at the sending unit was 71, which is pretty close based on the 0 (empty) to 90 (full) scale the sending unit works on. I also tested the guage by pulling off the power wire at the sending unit - this pushed the gauge to about the 3:00 position (past full) which is normal, and then grounded the power wire at the sending unit and that made the gauge read empty. Those tests should be showing me my guage is working correctly - or at the very least that I have correct power to the gauge. It's coming down to the ground at the back of the car (I think). I did notice that the ground wire is in pretty bad shape where it bolts to the frame on the drivers side rear of the car (also the ground for the tail lights etc.). Going to put a new end on it and see if that fixes it. If not, then I'll have to drop the tank to get to the sending unit ground connection and try cleaning that up.

If neither of the grounds fix the situation, then it's coming back to the sending unit not giving out a correct ohm reading and I'll have to replace that.

Adam

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been working on the fuel system. Having some issues with hot starts (very common with these Edelbrock carbs) and the pump to carb fuel lines were at best, temporary - to get the car running and test things out.

Although I've never had any issues with these glass fuel filters over the years, I have been warned by several people to get rid of it due to fire hazards. So this weekend I decided that my goals were to eliminate the glass filter and relocate the pressure regulator to a spot with less heat in hopes it might solve my hot start issues.

I moved the regulator to a bracket on the passenger side and ran stainless lines and AN fittings. Stuffs a pain to work with, but I think it turned out pretty good for a first try.

Here are the results:

A before and after shot

Posted Image



Another shot (little bigger)
Posted Image


I also picked up a rebuild kit so next weekend I'm going to pull the carb and go through it top to bottom.

Adam

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:thankyou: Feeling much better about this setup. Got rid of multiple potential problems and I think it's much cleaner looking too.

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Would like to put a Holley on it (and that may happen in the future), but need to try and work with what we have for now. Why do you say that about the coil?

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Bromley's Corvettes

The coils fail I have had customers run them and they just go bad. I also dont like how they install there are lots of better coils out there.

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