Cross Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Alright I figured out my Slave was bad and decided it was time to replace everything and upgrade.... not surprising. So I bought a Lightweight Flywheel, 6 Puck Spring Clutch and HD Flywheel, Speed Bleeder, New Slave, C6 Tunnel Brace and went a little overboard buying stuff for my cam swap too... but anyway. (I love buying stuff it seems) I got the last part yesterday and firgured its time to get started this weekend. I have the "Dope Guide" as I guess its known and while it seems straight forward holy hell talk about going further than I expected to have too... I can not just drop the Torque Tube? So I thought I would ask those here just how bad this is and what to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 It's more involved than probably any other clutch you've ever done, and... Actually really straight forward. All the bolts are real easy to find and get to, and it all comes apart pretty easy. If the "dope guide" is the one that you can find on the big forum and has pictures of a red car outside and the whole drivetrain coming out in one piece, take it outside and urinate on it. Have your children and friends urinate on it. Wait for it to dry, and burn it. Then urinate on the ashes. I had that guide when I did the clutch in my car the first time, and through the guide determined that this guy had never before in his life EVER worked on a car. Pretty sure he was a caveman that was recently thawed out and forced to work on that car. That guide will double the time it takes you, and make it drastically harder and more confusing. I would say the hardest part about the whole job is separating the clutch disconnect. You can buy a tool for it (Ford power steering disconnect is the same), or you can accomplish it with vice grips and screwdrivers and anger. If you plan to replace the master, and I recommend that you do, you might just as well cut the line and move on with your happy life. I'm happy to help with the job, though I'll have to plan a trip to Tucson if you're doing it there. I can also give you a few tips to make it easier whether I'm there or not, as well as acting as some type of phone support, or maybe emotional counselling. Let me know when and where you plan to do this. If you have all the new parts, you can do it in a day, but plan on one day apart, one day back together. Also, if you're thinking of a new diff, or trans, or shifter, now is the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 BP knows his way around a rearend (ask Dvl4evr) Note pilot bearing from Jim's car........this was over an hour to remove with 4 of us taking turns trying to hammer it out..... If I can find the post from his clutch job I'll put the link in Link: http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/arizonavette/forums/index.php?showtopic=15950&st=0&p=218943&fromsearch=1&#entry218943 I'm the guy with the beer and the disgusted look on my face! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOTV8 Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Now that's some good ACE pointing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92ZR1Wannabe Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 It's more involved than probably any other clutch you've ever done, and... Actually really straight forward. All the bolts are real easy to find and get to, and it all comes apart pretty easy. If the "dope guide" is the one that you can find on the big forum and has pictures of a red car outside and the whole drivetrain coming out in one piece, take it outside and urinate on it. Have your children and friends urinate on it. Wait for it to dry, and burn it. Then urinate on the ashes. R-O-F-L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 I thought his guide was way over the top why the hell I wanted to do all that work was beyond me. I have everything and actually already installed the new Master Cylinder (Although I have another new one sitting on the shelf now just in case along with other warranty parts lol. I like having things set aside) and every part is here and ready to rock, I def. would not mind the help I wanted to tackle it this weekend starting tonight because well, it needs to be done so I can start putting miles on the new clutch. I would really like to know the right way then, am i right to assume just drop the Torque Tube and go from there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve@LPM Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 If you have not done one yourself you will need someone there who has. Ive done at least a 100 and would never attempt to do one on the ground. A lot more parts to remove than your typical clutch job. All rear suspension, rear cradle, diff, trans, torque tube, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shifty Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 It's more involved than probably any other clutch you've ever done, and... Actually really straight forward. All the bolts are real easy to find and get to, and it all comes apart pretty easy. If the "dope guide" is the one that you can find on the big forum and has pictures of a red car outside and the whole drivetrain coming out in one piece, take it outside and urinate on it. Have your children and friends urinate on it. Wait for it to dry, and burn it. Then urinate on the ashes. R-O-F-L I think I wet myself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I would really like to know the right way then, am i right to assume just drop the Torque Tube and go from there? No, I wish it were that easy. Everything that the dope that wrote that guide says has to come out, has to come out. It's the order in which he takes everything apart and the way he goes about it that makes him a jackhole. I gotta get some work done here in the right now, but I'll see if I can't put together a list of pointers for you in a couple hours. If you're not REALLY confident in your abilities, and have a pretty good stock of tools, you may want to wait til you can have some help, just like Steve says. I'm OK doing it on the ground, as that's the only way I've ever done it, but it would be easier with a lift. So long as it's not a center post lift. You hear me Jim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 It's more involved than probably any other clutch you've ever done, and... Actually really straight forward. All the bolts are real easy to find and get to, and it all comes apart pretty easy. If the "dope guide" is the one that you can find on the big forum and has pictures of a red car outside and the whole drivetrain coming out in one piece, take it outside and urinate on it. Have your children and friends urinate on it. Wait for it to dry, and burn it. Then urinate on the ashes. R-O-F-L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I would really like to know the right way then, am i right to assume just drop the Torque Tube and go from there?. Everything that the dope that wrote that guide says has to come out, has to come out. It's the order in which he takes everything apart and the way he goes about it that makes him a jackhole. Poppa is good reading Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I cheated .. just took the beast to Steve at LPM when alla peices were there. I just dont have the toys or the place to play .. atm. LPM has a great toy shop and clutch has worked flawlessly since day one. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 You'll be here... Please note... Use of forklift NOT recommended. And, if you have a FAST intake, I recommend removing it... Leaky trans? Try this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 o.O Umm... I have done a lot of F-Body motor pulls, FWD Motor and trnny items, electrical yada yada yada... but this... Steve what do you change I have all the fluids, parts and I mean every single part to make it all new under there... whats the time frame and charge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Considering my help is running I am alone on this so yeah... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Well, I think I'm out for this weekend, but as I said before I'll help you with a bit of notice. Yer gonna need tools and jacks and jack stands etc though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 Well John is in and it seems another friend is too. Were going to jump in tonight and see where we land. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dvl4evr Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 I know you've started already, and with some advance notice, I too would have been more then happy to help you out. As BP said, take Dope's instructions and piss on them. Even though you might think it's more work, break things down into smaller units (ie separate diff by itself, tranny by itself, torque tube by itself), and it really turns out to be a fairly simple job. The toughest time we had was getting the damn bearing out with the slide hammer. That's why everyone had to flip it off in the picture. Good luck and post if you need help. Not that I'm a pro, since I've only done it once! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 OK, so... I didn't think you were gonna do this so i never typed this out. For on the spot questions, hit my cell at 520-979-9889. I'll be up til probably 330 or 4-ish, then up again tomorrow at noonish. Basic tips for the job.... These are broad strokes. At every step, look for wires to disconnect and other small bits. I also recommend using zip lock baggies and a sharpie to keep track of what bolts go where. Get the car up high so you have enough room to move under it. When you place the front jack stands, place them as far forward as you can. Use the front subframe under the engine, or the front tow hooks. If you use the jack puck location behind the front tire, the car gets very unstable when you remove all of the rear driveline. Drain the diff and trans. Get the rear tires off, remove the two nuts holding the diff to the rear subframe. Jack up the trans just a bit and get a jack stand holding it's weight. Remove the upper control arms from their inboard pivots leaving the ball joints connected. Remove the upper shock mounts. Pull off the calipers and tuck them in to the rock shields on the gas tank. Unhook the park brake cables. Don't undo the two bolts that hold the center brake mount. PITA if that deal falls apart. At this point you should be able to remove the rear subframe with the 4 big ass nuts that hold it in. lower it slowly as there is a lot of stuff clipped to it. You'll probably break most of those clips. As the subframe drops, pop the axles out of the diff. That should get the subframe gone. Now lose the exhaust. Go inside the car, and pull apart the radio bezel and center armrest. Pull the shifter box off the torque tube. Unbolt the shift shaft from the shifter box and set the shifter aside. Reach through the shifter hole and pull the rectangular rail of wires out of the clips. It slides sideways. Back under the car, with the exhaust gone, drop the center support belly pan. There are 17,000,000,000 bolts, so bring a snickers bar. Now with all that out the way, start to lower the drivetrain. Try to keep the whole drivetrain as high as you can. It's all attached to the engine, and the lower it goes, the more it pitches the engine towards the firewall. There is a lot of leverage with that trans at the end of the torque tube, so it's easy to move just a bit and break things in the engine bay. When the diff is low enough to slide out, remove the 5 bolts holding it in and unplug the wires and it will just slide off. Set aside. Repeat with the trans, being careful to snake the shift shaft out through the access hole. Now for the F*CK!NG clutch disconnect... If you look at it you have two orangish aluminum pieces with a tanish whitish plastic piece inbetween. You have to push that plastic piece in as far as you can so it actually recesses in just a bit. When you push it in far enough it will release the fingers inside that hold it all together. It'll just fall apart when you get there. It may take half your life, but stay calm and keep trying. I'm not lying, that's how it comes apart. Once that is apart, drop the torque tube, pull out the clutch and go to bed. Tomorrow when you get up... Change out the Pilot bearing. If you don't have or can't find a puller that works, and they're not easy to find, you can try the water and paper method. Look it up on youtube. I've never tried it but it looks like it would work. On the way back together, I have found that even if you use the alignment tool, the clutch doesn't seem to line up so that the torque tube goes back in easy. The trick I use is to get the torque tube stabbed into the clutch plate, and if the pilot shaft won't engage the pilot bearing, loosen the pressure plate until it releases the clutch disk. Just rotate the engine with your hands and loosen the bolts evenly across the plate. Once it releases, stab the torque tube and put it's bolts in. Then tighten up the plate slowly in little bits as you rotate the engine so it tightens up nice and even. I recommend at this point connecting and bleeding the clutch. You can see from there if it's all working good before the car is all the way back together. So long as it's all good at that point, put it all back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 big poppa for the win! thats the good stuff Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Bravo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Maybe I should write it up fully and post it in every thread that the Dope guy posted his. Man, I hate that dope guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 Thanks, got a later start then I wanted but the new significant other is very worth spending time with so I didn't mind lol. But were on it... maybe by Sunday it will be back on the road we shall see. I will show these directions to John too since were on this together until I go to work tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully with all of this replaced and put back together I will not have to do this again for a LONG time. Then it will just be the fun of the Cam next month along with some new bearings going in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Thanks, got a later start then I wanted but the new significant other is very worth spending time with so I didn't mind lol. Pics or STFU. Once you've done it once, you wouldn't look forward to doing it again, but it wouldn't be at all scary. It really isn't all that hard, you just have to take a lot of stuff out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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