zook62 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 So I was going to start a thread the other day to rack everyone's brain, but I didn't cause I really assumed this noise I had was no big deal. I had a noise that sounded somewhat like a knock, but was really inconsistent and seemed to come in and out more so when I turned sharp and/ or got on the brakes, and not so much with rpm or load change. I was this close (imagine my fingers 1/4" apart) to just leaving it alone for another drive or two since it seemed like something that wasn't pressing. Tonight I got curious to figure out what was going on. Didn't really see much til I found this..... Thought it looked a little out of place, no? (Insert sarcasm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Oh yeah, known issue. Glad you (hopfully) caught it soon enough. If that moves far enough back it could get into the timing cover and then....... you may as well put the cam in becaue it'll be that far apart to repair it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Not a fun DIY job either, major amount of torque on that balancer bolt and the steering rack has to move out of the way. I figured I could spend a week fighting it in my spare time or have LPM do it in about 3 hours. I chose the latter, Steve and the boys did a great job for a great price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zook62 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Oh yeah, known issue. Glad you (hopfully) caught it soon enough. If that moves far enough back it could get into the timing cover and then....... you may as well put the cam in becaue it'll be that far apart to repair it What do you mean by it working into the timing cover? The problem is it seems the bolt came loose and it has worked its way towards the steering rack. That's what my little noise was. I would assume there is not a concern with it working the other way?? Is it not either tapered or shouldered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 If that's the stock OEM piece they are known to "delaminate", that is the flexible coupling material fails and all the vibration dampening goo inside of it escapes thus creating a wobble or movement back and forth horizontally. I'd put money down the bolt is still tight to spec on the crank, the harmonic balancer (technically called the vibration dampener) has failed and the pulley is moving back and forth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Maybe some info for you here: http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/arizonavette/forums/index.php?showtopic=21472 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 And here: http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/arizonavette/forums/index.php?showtopic=21414 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Yep, it's coming apart, not a loose bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zook62 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I see said the blind man.... Two piece pulley.. Who's idea was that?! Anyone have any purchasing info/recommendations for me? Looks like I got lucky in this case as it went the opposite way of the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shockwave Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Glad you caught it now and not later. It's a fun time if your going to DIY it like I did . I picked up the powerbond hb and love it. No issues with it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe@cpr.com Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 We could have that fixed in a few hours for you and replace it with either an Oem unit or am upgraded underdrive if you like. Feel free to give me a call at the shop mon/Fri if we can help you in any way. 480-359-5914 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 It's a tough job for DIY, but is possible. I'm no mechanic and did mine as well. I also went with a Power Bond underdrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quicksilver98 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Did mine at about 95k miles. At a minimum you'll want to replace the main oil seal behind it too. Youll probably see a groove worn into the shaft of the balancer when you take it off. Good luck with it. Its a fun job! I had a heck of a time getting the air bubbles out of my rack and pinion after it was done. Theres a procedure to turn it lock to lock several times and work the air out.....even with doing that several times it took a week to get it back to normal with no hard spots in the steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hey Joe can you rebuild the ASP's or get me the pieces I think its time to do so. Been there OP, good think you caught it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zook62 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Anybody have a link to a forum that shows someone taking this apart? I'm not afraid of doing the job, but any headstart I can get would help. No way it can be worse than the clutch I just replaced, but since I've never done it I can see it being a pain. I was wondering if there was a way to loosen everything and move it without losing the fluid.. But it seems it's already been confirmed that you can't do so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 The issue is that the hard lines connect to the Rack not the Steering Knuckle. That's why you can't you could really try removing everything and moving it but I just don't think it would work because even if you get the bolt out you have to get a puller on it to pull the Balancer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Actually, the hardest part is getting the new one on. GM in its infinite wisdom did not start the thread at the end of the crank. Because of this, you need a tool to get it started onto the shaft. Then use the old bolt to "press" it the rest of the way on. Oh and something to hold the motor from rotating while torquing it down. Most of the other work is just tedious, a little time consuming and dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zook62 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 The issue is that the hard lines connect to the Rack not the Steering Knuckle. That's why you can't you could really try removing everything and moving it but I just don't think it would work because even if you get the bolt out you have to get a puller on it to pull the Balancer. So basically just brake the hard lines and let the fluid go? Joy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zook62 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Actually, the hardest part is getting the new one on. GM in its infinite wisdom did not start the thread at the end of the crank. Because of this, you need a tool to get it started onto the shaft. Then use the old bolt to "press" it the rest of the way on. Oh and something to hold the motor from rotating while torquing it down. Most of the other work is just tedious, a little time consuming and dirty. Is it hard squaring the pulley to the crank, or is it easy enough that I could just get a longer bolt to help pull it in to start it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe@cpr.com Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Cross ill find out tomorrow, and i know the super secret way on a c5 to do a balancer w/o removing the rack ;) no disconnecting the lines either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I may have to see if I can do it but I hate the thought of tweaking those lines and looking back over how I posted that it could be confusing. No PS lines go to the steering knuckle. I was stating that the hard lines are the issue holding the rack from moving well not the steering knuckle. They might move but well... bending them would ruin anyone's day but then again I am overly protective. Also after having done it more than twice I am more open trying to not remove them this time around lol. Joe let me know I need it.. or else I am going to have to try and figure out how to make my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Ok Joe, this I have got to know. Zook, I had no issues getting it "square" to the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zook62 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Ok Joe, this I have got to know. Zook, I had no issues getting it "square" to the crank. As long as tolerances aren't ridiculous it should be fine, I was just curious if the only problem was catching threads or if you had to carefully press it on first. I too am curious how else you would do this. I was thinking you break the x-pipe off the headers, loosen motor mounts, and raise the engine/entire drivetrain... but I don't think that would be near enough clearance. The only other way would be to suspend the frame and lower the front suspension carriage, much like you do to start a clutch replacement in the back. Except you'd have to again loosen motor mounts and support the engine. Not sure that would really be easier expect to avoid the stupidity of bleeding power steering lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two Fangs Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Supporting the engine and dropping the cradle is easier (IMHO) than trying to wrestle the rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe@cpr.com Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Cradle and motor mounts don't get touched Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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