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zook62

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Fill the engine with water to hydrolock it. Torque teh bolt, then drain. Edit: Requisite smilie... :jester

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I used a large leather strap wrench to hold the HB/enging from rotating and did the torquing then. Was the best I could come up with. If I remember right though, there is a torque number and then a degree measure past that? Or is that something else I'm thinking of?

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I used a large leather strap wrench to hold the HB/enging from rotating and did the torquing then. Was the best I could come up with. If I remember right though, there is a torque number and then a degree measure past that? Or is that something else I'm thinking of?

I've seen just a 240 lb-ft spec on everything I've read. TTY bolts are usually what you said, torque then degrees past.. But I have yet to see that for this.

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Fill the engine with water to hydrolock it. Torque teh bolt, then drain.

Edit: Requisite smilie... :jester

Ingenious!

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But no

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I used a large leather strap wrench to hold the HB/enging from rotating and did the torquing then. Was the best I could come up with. If I remember right though, there is a torque number and then a degree measure past that? Or is that something else I'm thinking of?

I've seen just a 240 lb-ft spec on everything I've read. TTY bolts are usually what you said, torque then degrees past.. But I have yet to see that for this.

My '08 service manual states 240# for the initial installation, then remove and install a new bolt. Tighten the new bolt to 37# on the first pass and then add 140 degrees for the final.

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I used a large leather strap wrench to hold the HB/enging from rotating and did the torquing then. Was the best I could come up with. If I remember right though, there is a torque number and then a degree measure past that? Or is that something else I'm thinking of?

I've seen just a 240 lb-ft spec on everything I've read. TTY bolts are usually what you said, torque then degrees past.. But I have yet to see that for this.

My '08 service manual states 240# for the initial installation, then remove and install a new bolt. Tighten the new bolt to 37# on the first pass and then add 140 degrees for the final.

That's great, thanks. Do all the LS motors use the same bolt, hence the same numbers here?

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Torquing the HB bolt is a pain, Toms settings are what I used when I pinned my crank, Joe is going to do my replacement ATI Balancer, cam, oil pump and trunions as soon as I get all the parts in.

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Finally got this in now that I got the right part. I was originally shipped that pulley that didnt remotely line up. I'll button up the rest of it tomorrow and cross my finger for no troubles.m Thanks for all the help. Makes it a lot easier...

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Finally got this in now that I got the right part. I was originally shipped that pulley that didnt remotely line up. I'll button up the rest of it tomorrow and cross my finger for no troubles.m

Thanks for all the help. Makes it a lot easier...

Oy.....now your pictures are making sense to me. Nothing worse than having to do a $hitty project twice :banghead

Glad you have it in the homestretch! :thumbs

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Finally got this in now that I got the right part. I was originally shipped that pulley that didnt remotely line up. I'll button up the rest of it tomorrow and cross my finger for no troubles.m

Thanks for all the help. Makes it a lot easier...

Oy.....now your pictures are making sense to me. Nothing worse than having to do a $hitty project twice :banghead

Glad you have it in the homestretch! :thumbs

Thankfully I didn't have to do it all again. Just had to press and pull the pulley twice.

Here's a shot of the 2nd balancer the guy sent me. Lipped on the back side and snap ring on the front. Makes muuuuch more sense.

Posted Image

And here she is all ready to go. Drove it to work today and had no troubles. I'd also like to note that the power steering was a piece of cake to bleed.

Posted Image

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