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Lucky lucky....


zook62

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Actually, the hardest part is getting the new one on.

GM in its infinite wisdom did not start the thread at the end of the crank. Because of this, you need a tool to get it started onto the shaft. Then use the old bolt to "press" it the rest of the way on. Oh and something to hold the motor from rotating while torquing it down.

Most of the other work is just tedious, a little time consuming and dirty. :yesnod

Is it hard squaring the pulley to the crank, or is it easy enough that I could just get a longer bolt to help pull it in to start it?

I used a longer bolt and a spacer (like a pipe coupling plus a fender washer) to start mine until the shorter standard bolt could finish the job.

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Careful with using a bolt to pull the HB on. I've heard of threads stripping in the crank. Better to use an installation tool where the bolt is secured in the crank snout and you turn the adjuster on the tool to pull the HB on.

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I'm still waiting to hear teh sneaky way to do this without moving teh rack...:popcorn: :popcorn:

I'm still waiting to hear this too... I'll take the rack out of there if need be, I would just hate knowing that there's another way to do it.
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Anybody have anything against Powerbond's standard diameter HB's? I found one for $90. Is the 25% reduction really worth another $100?

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Anybody have anything against Powerbond's standard diameter HB's? I found one for $90. Is the 25% reduction really worth another $100?

I'd say no, underdrive can potentially mess with your charging as well. Stock diameter=stock belt size as well
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cross i can't find anything, do you by chance have a part number? and i will say this, you have to have a lift and a swivel jack. also a modified pulley puller ;)

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There is no real need for an under drive pulley. I got it just because I did not find any in standard size that were not OEM. I've had no issues with the charging system but I do run a little warmer as the water pump turns a little slower.

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Anybody have anything against Powerbond's standard diameter HB's? I found one for $90. Is the 25% reduction really worth another $100?

I'd say no, underdrive can potentially mess with your charging as well. Stock diameter=stock belt size as well

You make a valid point sir.... Especially considering that 9 times out of 10 I only fire the care up for a 10 minute drive to work, I'd rather not give up any juice to the battery. And really... I have heads, cam, and an assortment of bolt on's... I'm not really that concerned about the minuscule hp I'll get from a pulley size reduction.

I went ahead and ordered the standard diameter HB from Powerbond.

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Does anyone know if this happens with the C6's (LS3) as well? Looking down at the balancer, I have a slight wobble, center part looks fine, tensioner moves as well. Dont know if this is normal. Mine looks something like this:

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Let me see I have something at home on it Joe. I think I am just going to have to take it apart and see what I can do.

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Does anyone know if this happens with the C6's (LS3) as well?

Looking down at the balancer, I have a slight wobble, center part looks fine, tensioner moves as well.

Dont know if this is normal.

Mine looks something like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRboo9a0RnY

That's the way mine was...but just a bit more than what I see in yours right now. Because of it I had to change all the idler pulleys too. Bearings got thrashed and were squealing like mad.
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Guess its time to get some bids from LPM and CPR I'm going to go for this: ATI Super Damper Serpentine Series Harmonic Balancers 917246 Outside Diameter (in):7.500 in. Harmonic Balancer Material:Steel Stock diameter is 7.53" so only a little underdrive of 0.4% this one is made of steel, the others were a mixture of Aluminium and Steel Anybody know of other options with as good reviews?

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Alright those of you who have done this... I'm down to the pulley. That retarded process of moving the rack is over with for now, but I can't get the damn crank to hold. I have the car in gear, having someone mash the shite out of the brakes, and I can turn it over without much effort from a 18" breaker bar... Tried an impact but it must be weak or the fact that the tank is too small, but either way it wouldn't touch it. I'm a sitting duck

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Finally got it broken loose. Put the car in 5th, set the rear tires on the ground, held the brakes and my buddy torqued the hell out of it. The pulley moved about 20 degrees before the bolt finally cracked loose.

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Yeah I started doing that got pissed and just put the breaker bar on the ground hit the start twice and it was loose. Getting it back on... that was another story.

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Yea the idea of getting 240 on it sounds... Interesting. I have my ideas but what actually worked for you guys?

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I'll get deep fried for suggesting this but get a cheater bar of necessary length and throw all of your weight on it and used one of these formaulas to get you in the ball park on the length of the cheater bar. http://www.ajdesigner.com/phptorque/torque_equation_torque.php Or.....just be smart and wait for Parker to chime in with the correct method! :lol

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