HELP !

[C4in mesa]

When my 1988 engine was going back in we put the headers on while it was on the engine stand. I bought locking bolts and they did not fit on each hole due to the tube size and lack of space up next to the head itself. So three on each side had to be unscrewed and the Hedman bolts had to be used which have a smaller head. Anyway on the driver side a bolt snapped off in the aluminum. A helicoil was used to fix it and all was well. We failed to remember that on the passenger side a long bolt had to be used in order to attach the support bracket for the A/C compressor. It wasn't until after the engine was back in the car all hooked up that we realized our mistake as the final touches were being made to get it ready to drive again. That bolt had to come out and the longer one be put in to hold the A/C support bracket. Half way out it locked up and snapped off. Now a decision had to be made ! Either I pay for the motor to be pulled back out of the car AGAIN or let Greg try to get that bolt in through the header and into the aluminum head. He took the wheel off and the wheel well cover and a clear straight shot was made available. He ran a drill right through the bolt and tapped it. He put another 3/8ths bolt into the head and it seemed to work just fine. Now 6,000 miles later I started my car two days ago and I have a nice exhaust leak coming from that hole. I took it to a shop since I had the day off looking for answers. When the A/C bracket was removed and a wrench put on the bolt to tighten it down all it did was spin. It is completely loose and holding nothing in the aluminum. Here are my choices as I see them, one remove the entire engine and weld the hole with fresh aluminum and start from scratch new threaded hole new gasket back in the car. Possibly redo the other side since the engine is out ? Second choice is to remove the header on the passenger side and helicoil or weld new aluminum in it depending if it can even be done in that tight spot ? MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY is ultimately the issue. Whether it is going all out and redoing the whole engine both sides or just to fix the passenger side and pray the other side doesn't leak someday. I need a quality shop or mechanic who won't charge me $60-80 an hour. Or charge me 12 hours for the job. I just can not see this costing me $1,000 to fix. There must be someone out there who can do this and do it right. My mechanic could do the job but it would take him 4 months or longer. I do want my car in his driveway till next summer. Getting the header off is the tough part for sure. The three bolts towards the firewall are a joke to reach. But once it is off the access to the bad bolt is rather straight. Greg used a drill already and went right into it cleaning out that bolt that broke.

[ChadC]

just a thought

can you remove the head itself?

granted its labor intensive, but its 'top end' work. the engine does not have to come out.

once the head is out then you can do whatever you want to it.

if it were me...

id replace the head. its the right way. but I know cost is a factor.

[Shifty]

Teh wrong, but easiest money wise, would be to get that broken bolt out however you can, and-and if you can-put another heli-coil in it. Hopefully, teh old heli-coil insert just snapped, but be prepared to jump to teh next size. This time, use a stud instead of a bolt, and use green threadlocker on it. You won't make any friends with teh next owner for sure, but maybe it'll get you out of your jam.

Remember to check your header fasteners, they tend to loosen after a little while.

[Shifty]

BTW: If you need to pull teh motor, invest in a T.P.I.S. "Happy Hooker"-it's teh best move you can make on a tuned-port motor. You shouldn't need to pull teh motor all teh way, just lift it up a bit.

[C4in mesa]

These pics show what is in the way of getting to those header bolts. I am convinced if this stuff is removed then pulling the header off and out of the way no problem.

[Desertdawg]

it would be easier to change your name to C5in mesa

[Shifty]

Ya, I had one too, I understand.

[C4in mesa]

How difficult is it to remove the A/C heater box and fan motor ?

[Shifty]

How difficult is it to remove the A/C heater box and fan motor ?

Easy as pie...of course, I got to mine after I'd wrecked it, so even teh engine was out of teh way.

[C4in mesa]

The evaporator and fan motor are all in the way of the header bolts. Am I on the right track to remove this stuff instead of pulling the engine ?

[Shifty]

If I recall, it will be pretty difficult to get to a few of teh case bolts with teh engine in....What about pulling teh starter, and going from underneath?

[C4in mesa]

The morning I discovered the leak I was off of work and immediately swung into action. I called a Header Shop and told them what was going on. He said come on and lets put it up on a lift. I was underneath the car and going from the bottom is impossible ! I asked the question hoping it to be the case. He said nope and showed me. So my options are pull the motor which is $2,000 fucking dollars. Everything has to come off the engine to screw the bolts in so it can be pulled. Then it has to be raised up and worked on hanging in the air which seems like BS. Back on an engine stand and the repair will be easy for the most part. I will have to park my Corvette for the entire winter and save the money in order to pay for that route. Or I go through the passenger side and remove the evaporator and blower motor. It looks like it can be welded if need be from the side. The real question I should have asked is does the dash have to come off to get all that stuff out of the way ? I can not find any pics of how this car is put together ? Until I am told it is impossible or just as difficult to remove these two parts rather than pull the engine I am gonna remain hopeful.

[Shifty]

You need one of these:

http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1988-Corvette-Repair-Shop-Manual-Original-P14282.aspx?source=googleps&gclid=CPzStYKvvLkCFYl_QgodomMArA

At teh very least, a friendly connect with your favorite Chevy parts counterman might get you some blowups. If that doesn't work, let me know, I've got a pal at O'Rielly Chevy here in Tucson, I could fax them to you.

[Unreal]

Just pull the one head off.

[Chameleon]

Are you absolutely positive that header can't come out the bottom?

A few years ago when F22Trainer and I were working on his '87, I seem to remember the passenger side header came out the bottom (driver side had to come out the top). We just had the car up on wood blocks in his driveway (no lift).

Maybe he'll see this and correct me if I'm wrong. . .

[Shifty]

^^^^^What Donna said. My Hooker Headers long tubes came out teh bottom too (on teh pass side), but there was a bunch of disassembly to get to that point.

[C4in mesa]

I am honestly going by what the so called "professional" at the header muffler shop in Mesa. Really hoping for comments on how difficult it is or isn't too remove the evaporator and fan motor ?

[chevyguy1969]

If you pull the evaporater out of the car you will have to pay to have the A/C system reservice. This could be very costly depending on what system you have in the car.

Wise man once said (There are many short cuts but only one correct way).

[Chameleon]

I am honestly going by what the so called "professional" at the header muffler shop in Mesa. Really hoping for comments on how difficult it is or isn't too remove the evaporator and fan motor ?

No offense intended, but I would rely on the advice of other C4 Corvette DIY owners over the 'professional' at a muffler shop. I have been given crap advice many times by such 'professionals' but never by my fellow Vette owners. Just sayin. . .

Also, Butch has a valid point about the A/C system - and that can get pricey really quick.

[Shifty]

Very true....if it's R12 still, if you can find any, it's over $35/lb. R134a is much better from a price standpoint. Most shops are anti-Corvette to start with, and teh C4 will find no friends at a non-Corvette specialists shop. Have you called one of "our" specialist shops here?

[magred00]

i have aluminium heads off of a 95 camaro z28 lt1 they have about 147k on them i will let the set go for $200 let me know if intresed i live in Mesa

[C4in mesa]

The A/C was changed years ago and has been updated it's no longer R12. However even if it were bleeding the system is a minor concern at this point. Getting the header off is the only thing on my mind right now. I can not remove the head with the header in the way. The header is what is preventing me from repairing the broken bolt which is why I have a exhaust leak. I don't need new heads. I just need to helicoil the hole that is stripped out.

[C4in mesa]

If you pull the evaporater out of the car you will have to pay to have the A/C system reservice. This could be very costly depending on what system you have in the car.

Wise man once said (There are many short cuts but only one correct way).

If I end up pulling the motor then my car will sit all winter long and my Corvette days will be over for 6-10 months. I can not afford to just go dump down $2,000 on the labor only and let's not forget ALL the other crap that comes up in the cost of doing such a job. broken connectors, broken wires, broken bolts, the list seems never ending. I JUST PUT A REBUILT MOTOR in this car. It sat for 10 months. I saved every dime I had to pay for this job. At every turn something was breaking and needing replaced. I am only trying to avoid pulling the engine AGAIN. Are you saying whenever long tube headers are installed on a 1985-1991 C4 the engine is pulled out ? Is that what happens ? I was unaware that pulling motors was required to install long tube headers on these cars ?

[Ted Y]

You may want to consider asking the same question here for more advice: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance-48/

[Shifty]

It looks like you have Hooker 2149 headers.....if that's so, you should be able to slide it out from underneath, with a few bleeding knuckles and a few new expletives. You'll need to disconnect a bunch of stuff to get to all teh header bolts though.