Guest racingchester Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 What weight Max Life. 15-30 -10-30 - 10-40 for the temps we have here. Shouln't have to change weights in winter as the temps arn't that severe. right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Chris, the Max Life is non-synthetic, but it's has some good properties for older motors.... Switching to Synthetic now will mess up your driveway, it did mine in the vette. using dino oil I have almost no drips, if I put in synthetic, it drips worse than worn out milk cow. Synthetic oil has smaller molecules so it will find bad spots where normal oil won't...You can always try it once, if it leaks then when it's time to change it just swap back to dino oil. But your probably just better off going with Max Life for now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 What weight Max Life. 15-30 -10-30 - 10-40 for the temps we have here. Shouln't have to change weights in winter as the temps arn't that severe. right! 10W30 will be fine. Remember basically it's 10 when you start it and 30 when it heats up. Not the other way around. That's why ya have higher oil pressure upon initial startup because it's easier to pump 10 weight than 30 weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P51tj Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 www.skidtheoilguy.com for ACE!!! Thanks man for all the earl info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racingchester Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Been using 10-30 for years. Guess the next change I will try the max life. Thanks much Oil Doctor for the info. Vhuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Been using 10-30 for years. Guess the next change I will try the max life. Thanks much Oil Doctor for the info. Vhuck No problem, Vhuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 So here's a question from a vette newbie - how accurate is the oil % used in the DIC? Should I pay attention to it or the mileage? Well, If your running Synthetic and want to go further than 3k mile oil change then monitor miles. Or have Mike monitor the miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92ZR1Wannabe Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 As far as milage on engines anymore, I think as long as you keep the oil changed you can easily get 200k on them. Now im talking regular driving , maybe not 200k miles of ACE events. But if your changing regular oil every 3-4k and synthetics at whatever is recommended, I think your car will have a really really long life. Gone are the days that a GM small block was a automatic rebuild at 100k.Ive actually been in meetings at work with oil vendors trying to sell us products for plant use, wether it be for air compressors , gearboxes , or oil / lube for bearings. Of course all of them are trying to sell THIER products , but everyone of them tells you that oils / lubes today are 100x different then lubes 20-30+ years ago. And even non synthetics for automobile engines today could be good after 5-6-7k miles. However , do oil companys make more money sticking to the 3k oil changes or saying , "Hey these new oils are good for 7k" ? Answer is obvious.The only right way for good oil changes is by sampling the oil , having it tested for solids, contamination, ect ect and changing it only when needed. The only way that happens is in big industry. So i change my oil every 3-4k in all my cars, wether its synthetic in the vette, or the flavor of the day in the ford (work car) Figure if you aim on the low end of the interval , you can't really go wrong. Granted you might spend a little extra every year on oilchanges, but hey...... ive never owned a vechile thats required a major motor overhaul. And i bet alot of you can say the same thing, I know were all pretty compulsive when it comes to maintenance on the cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest UVETTYA Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 The only reason I change my oil every 3 to 4K is because of dirt. The oil itself now days is probably good until the DIC says to change it, but I don't think heat is the only thing to consider. As you mentioned, dissolved solids are not good for your engine, and they start accumulating from the moment you start up after an oil change. They cause wear, and then deposits build up in the wear spots. Especially here in the SW where it's dusty. So how much all that really affects your engine is debatable, but it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy to change mine often, and I can afford to do it, so I do. The logic that drives my decision is: clean oil or dirty oil. What do I want in my engine? GoodWrench only charges $19.95 to do it if you bring your own oil, (it's worth that to me not having to screw with getting rid of the used oil etc.) and you can buy 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 at Wally World for $20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 If ya ever wanted to, it's free!http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ FASTEST Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Red Line 5 -30 and their gear oils as well.An excellent white paper is at: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racingchester Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Latest Corvette Enthusiast magazine has an article on synthetic oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 Latest Corvette Enthusiast magazine has an article on synthetic oil. so....give us the "cliffs notes" version or at least the "chucks notes" version! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racingchester Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 here is the bottom line in the article.If you have a 1992 or later Corvette, using synthetic oil is a given. If youhave an earlier Vette, the choice of wheather to stay with petroleum-based oil or to switch to a synthetic blend or pure synthetic, is a decision you'll have to make for yourself. But, now that you know the facts about synthetic oils, hopefully you'll be able to make a more informed decision. REGARDLESS of what kind of oil you're using in your Corvette, the most important thing is to keep it clean and change it (and the filter) regularly. Thats the best way to insure you'll have thousands of carefree miles with your Corvette. They ran a dyno test on a 1998 with mobil 1 5w30 and Royal Purple 5w30. Mobil1 SAE Power HP 344.5 sae tOURQUE (LB-FT_ 358.0 Royal Purple HP. 348.3 Torque 362.8 Hp gain 3.8 Torque 4.8Synthetic damage seals. They say false. Synthetics cause engines to use more oil. They say false. Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum. False. Synthetics viod warranties. False An increasing number of high performance cars are coming with it as the factory fill. Syntetics last indefinatly- False. my .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest intmd8r Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 So here's a question from a vette newbie - how accurate is the oil % used in the DIC? Should I pay attention to it or the mileage?Well, If your running Synthetic and want to go further than 3k mile oil change then monitor miles. Or have Mike monitor the miles Ok, I'll monitor the miles then instead of the DIC.How is the DIC % calculated? Is it a mathematical equation calculated purely on miles driven or is there a sensor or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 71airstrike Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 How is the DIC % calculated? Is it a mathematical equation calculated purely on miles driven or is there a sensor or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knkayotte Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 How is the DIC % calculated? Is it a mathematical equation calculated purely on miles driven or is there a sensor or something? No sensor for oil condition. It's a mathematical equation. I believe it keeps track of miles driven and RPM's. From that, the computer determines how bad your oil probably is. There could be other parts of the equation but I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92ZR1Wannabe Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 How is the DIC % calculated? Is it a mathematical equation calculated purely on miles driven or is there a sensor or something?No sensor for oil condition. It's a mathematical equation. I believe it keeps track of miles driven and RPM's. From that, the computer determines how bad your oil probably is. There could be other parts of the equation but I'm not sure. Thats pretty much exactly what my owners manual says. Followed by the 10 step procedure on how to clear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest intmd8r Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 Thanks for the info - I'll just change the oil based on miles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LT4ME Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 GoodWrench only charges $19.95 to do it if you bring your own oil, (it's worth that to me not having to screw with getting rid of the used oil etc.) and you can buy 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 at Wally World for $20.If you want to bring your own oil & filter, we'll change your oil at Tom Jones for $5.50 labor, $3 waste fee + tax. Comes out to right around $10. And if you need it, I have some extra LS1 & LT1 filters I can sell for $5 & $4 respectively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knkayotte Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 Alright, you aked for it. These are my opinions and not meant to bust anyones chops about the oil they use. I have done many hours of research on all brands of synthetic oil. Don't ask me "Why do you think that blank oil is better than blank oil", to be honest I have compiled alot of data in my beer soaked brain and would have to do some research to post all of the oil tests from blackstone and bobistheoilguy.com that I read and make me come to the conclusions that I made. My opinion again is that if you run synthetics with a quality filter and you change you oil @ 3K miles in your CAR you have wasted your money. It's your money and I will not tell you what to do with it. Here we go.1998 Vette - German Castrol 0W30, OCI-7,000, Purolator Pure One Filter2001 Vette - German Castrol 0W30, OCI-7,000, Purolator Pure One Filter2006 Titan - German Castrol 0W30, OCI-6,000, Purolator Pure One Filter2004 ZX-10R - Shell Rotella T 0W40, OCI-3000, Factory KawasakiOCI= Oil Change IntervalGerman Castol (looks green when you pour it) was made by Castrol from '02 to early '05in Germany, it is no longer in production and I have cleaned out many Auto Zone's across the country of their supply. I have about 47 quarts left. After my stash is depleted I will run Castrol 0w30 in the new formula (regular gold color, made in Germany) in all the vehicles. Castrol 0W30 has shown to be more stable at higher temps than most other synthetics. The Castrol 0w30 on the shelf now is the one with the oil weight in a little red box on the right side. Shell Rotella T has a very high sheer strength at high RPM's that's why that goes in the bike. I change my own oil and always have. If you don't want to pay someone 80 bucks to change your oil lemme know, all it will cost ya is the price of the filter and oil and we will get-er-done. GM make a good filter so if you want to stick with it you'll be o.k. Mobil is a good oil but not the best in my opinion. Amsoil is a good oil also but I hate not being able to go to the store to get it. Seems like Royal Purple picks up HP when they do tests by switching the weight of the oil to something very thin for the "after dyno". SHEILDS UP :DMark, is this still your oil of choice? I knew Mobil changed their formula sometime ago, I've been meaning to look for something different for a while now. What do you think about using synthetic in my crate motor (already broken in)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Mark, is this still your oil of choice? I knew Mobil changed their formula sometime ago, I've been meaning to look for something different for a while now. What to thing about using synthetic in my crate motor (already broken in)?Keef, The Castrol would work very well in yur crate motor! Also try Penzoil Platinum for more outstanding results Put a good filter on it and enjoy the ride spell check WOW, this thread came back from the past!!That '71Airstrike is one hell of a driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knkayotte Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Fingers unfortunately move faster then my brain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOLDCYLON Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Mobil 1, Good enough as OEM good enough for me. GC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstrutt Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Mark, did it really pay to pass on some good info? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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