Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Hydraulic Here's the numbers: Basic operating range: 1600 to 5800 Intake duration at 050 inch lift Exhaust duration at 050 inch lift Advert intake duration: 268 Advertised Exhaust duration: 280 Intake valve lift : .477 Exhaust Valve lift .480 lobe separation: 110 degrees At WOT the acceleration seems to go flat at about 5400 RPM. I'm no cam expert, far from it but I'd like to have hard acceleration to 6000 at least. The motor is built to rev that high. Is this cam too tame? I'm looking around for opinions. This car is not a DD; it's meant to be driven hard then parked. Thanks for your input. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 What do you have for springs and rockers. If you change to stronger springs it will rev higher. If you have 1.5 rockers and change to 1.6 it will make the cam think its bigger and rev higher. I would do both 1.6 rockers and new stronger springs. Valve springs make H.P more then people think. They make the motor rev faster not just higher. The faster the motor revs up the faster the car goes lol. With the cam you have you will be able to find some good dual springs that will have lots of presser with out having to mod the heads. You dont want a ton of spring presser because it will wear out the cam real fast if its not a roller. Thats why rollers can run so much spring presser and make more power they are hard coated so they can handle tons of spring presser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 What do you have for springs and rockers. If you change to stronger springs it will rev higher. If you have 1.5 rockers and change to 1.6 it will make the cam think its bigger and rev higher. I would do both 1.6 rockers and new stronger springs. Valve springs make H.P more then people think. They make the motor rev faster not just higher. The faster the motor revs up the faster the car goes lol. With the cam you have you will be able to find some good dual springs that will have lots of presser with out having to mod the heads. You dont want a ton of spring presser because it will wear out the cam real fast if its not a roller. Thats why rollers can run so much spring presser and make more power they are hard coated so they can handle tons of spring presser. Thanks for the inupt, doug! I have 1.6 rr's. I really can't remember if I changed the springs or not.. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 So you want higher lift for more power at higher rev? Just asking...not up to speed on cams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Higher lift, more air flow, more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldenC4 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 In my opinion, yes, that's a pretty mild cam - especially for a non-daily driver. Check out these numbers going from a ZZ4 cam (probably even a little stouter than yours) to an LT4 hotcam: http://www.cis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/buildup/cam/ That's what I'd go with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Ya, I don't need a tame cam for DD'ing. I neeed a cam that I can rev to 6000 or so. This cam starts to run out before 5500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 You already have 1.6 rockers I would change the cam. The LT4 hot cam is way better then what you have but I would go bigger. You have a 383 with alum Dart heads and R.P.M intake and super comp headers with no cats and you dont use the car as a DD. I would go 550 lift and 225 and 235 at 50 on a 110 and it will really run hard up to about 6500rpm. I would buy a kit with the right springs and keepers and retainers and cam and lifters. If your vette is a stick no problem if its auto you will need at least a 2500stall to make it work right and 3.55 rear gear 3.70 even better. If you dont mind it idling at about 1000 you will love the power it will want to keep pulling and pulling like a real hot rod should. I belive in kinda over camming a motor on the street a little bit because it makes the car faster because it moves the power band up so you can hook up and have the strongest mid and top end posibal. If you had big sticky tires so you could really launch the car you would be faster with a cam that builds tons of TQ as low as posibal but in the real world you will just blow the tires off lol. It does not matter how much H.P you have only how much you can use lol. It will go faster with less N.O.S with this combo because this cam combo will love the N.O.S. You can lunch it on motor and get out about a car leanth or so and hit the N.O.S and it should stay hooked if the hit is set up soft. You need a real short line on the fuel side and a longer one like 4 times as long on the N.O.S side so the fuel hits first and it makes the hit softer. Bottle press makes a big differnce to. You want to start off at the 900p.s.i. and work your way up. Two stages is the ultmate for fast street cars leave on 100h.p. and get in high gear 1 to 1 ratio and switch to 200h.p. The car will stay hooked up and really fly like that. You will have great M.P.H to lol. If the guy your racing is close to you at that point he wont know what the hell just happened lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 With 1.6 rockers you are still @ 507/510 which isn't "that" lame and the 110LSA makes it computer friendly. Are you sure its the cam vs FP that is going flat? Put it on a dyno and blast it and see what the AF is doing before replacing stuff IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldenC4 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I'm guessing with a carb on there that the computer is long gone. Now that you mention it, I'm not sure about the duration. The "advertised" duration numbers are pretty meaningless since each manufacturer measures them different. What's the @.050 numbers? Good point about the fuel pressure. Or it might be the jetting towards the top end. A dyno run or two would definitely help pinpoint things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 With 1.6 rockers you are still @ 507/510 which isn't "that" lame and the 110LSA makes it computer friendly. Are you sure its the cam vs FP that is going flat? Put it on a dyno and blast it and see what the AF is doing before replacing stuff IMHO. I think there is a fp issue as well. A few runs, it slowed at the exact samemoment. always in third gear at about 90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I read his info about high press fuel pump and having a carb on it so I was thinking bigger cam and stronger springs. It sounds like he wants to make it into more of a hot rod. He has a nice 383 with lots of good parts it just needs more air flow. A elec fuel pump would be nice to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Oops, sorry. I missed the carb part. I assumed computer since it was a C4. My bad, but it still may be a FP issue as well. Check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Yeah thats why I said a elec fuel pump would be nice lol. I dont like mech pumps they cant keep up with the R.P.M most of the time. They make pumps that will but they are exspensive so most guys dont run them on hot rod stuff they just go to a nice elec. You could test it old school and duck tape a gauge to the windshild and run it W.O.T up to 90 + m.p.h and see how much it drops. If the gauge drops right befour the car slows you need a better pump. Line size and fillter and fittings need to up to size to. You really dont want to go lean on the N.O.S lol. It will make a big mess of your nice motor real fast lol. I would put a elec on it big enough to also supply the N.O.S. If you use the stock return line the big pump wont be to much for the motor when not running N.O.S. Make shore you run a fuel press safty switch on the N.O.S so if you ever lose press it will shut of the N.O.S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Yeah thats why I said a elec fuel pump would be nice lol. I dont like mech pumps they cant keep up with the R.P.M most of the time. They make pumps that will but they are exspensive so most guys dont run them on hot rod stuff they just go to a nice elec. You could test it old school and duck tape a gauge to the windshild and run it W.O.T up to 90 + m.p.h and see how much it drops. If the gauge drops right befour the car slows you need a better pump. Line size and fillter and fittings need to up to size to. You really dont want to go lean on the N.O.S lol. It will make a big mess of your nice motor real fast lol. I would put a elec on it big enough to also supply the N.O.S. If you use the stock return line the big pump wont be to much for the motor when not running N.O.S. Make shore you run a fuel press safty switch on the N.O.S so if you ever lose press it will shut of the N.O.S. I have a holley black electric fuel pump on it. Also a B&M 2400 holeshot stall converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I would do the press test and go from there. Or run it on a dyno with A.F and see what happens. You could do the old school racers tune and run it wide open up to the point it goes flat and shut the IGN off and pull over and pull a plug. You need a safe road you can do it on with out traffic and you have to move the key foward one click so it unlocks your steering wheel lol. What kind of fuel filter do you have and when is the last time you changed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I would do the press test and go from there. Or run it on a dyno with A.F and see what happens. You could do the old school racers tune and run it wide open up to the point it goes flat and shut the IGN off and pull over and pull a plug. You need a safe road you can do it on with out traffic and you have to move the key foward one click so it unlocks your steering wheel lol. What kind of fuel filter do you have and when is the last time you changed it? I was thinking about putting it on a dyno. Oh... forgot... have 373 gears in a d44. Auto trans. Fuel filter is just your typical inline filter. It's a couple of years old but has less than 2k miles on it. You gonna be around tomorrow morning? oh by the way, all these goodies and the best I could get at the track was 13.6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Ok and I will be open at 8:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 The fuel filter is a couple of years old with less than 2000 miles??? I bet your whole fuel system is full of crap, gas starts to form deposits in a closed system within 2 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 If you want the cam to make HP up high you need to go with a 112 or 114 LSA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 I did not mean kill the bottom end so it makes no TQ just move it up a little so it wont blow the tires off. He has a 383 with Dart heads so it will make good TQ even with a pretty good size cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I did not mean kill the bottom end so it makes no TQ just move it up a little so it wont blow the tires off. He has a 383 with Dart heads so it will make good TQ even with a pretty good size cam. So... hydraulic of solid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hydraulic is easy set and forget. Solid makes more power but you have to check lash once and awhile depending on how you run it. They are a little louder then hydraulic but nothing like the old days lol. Stock 60s vettes with the solid cams sounded like they needed to be adjusted all the time. New designs and syntic oil helps big time. With solid cams the hard core racers can spot a problem befour its to late. When running a motor hard and on N.O.S when the motor denenates the lash changes. Fast hard core guys check there lash after each N.O.S pass. If it has changed they add fuel or back off on the N.O.S. If you dont mind checking lash once and awhile I would go with a solid its the cheapest way to get the most power. Soild roller is the best but its exspensive like three times as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1FASTC4 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hydraulic is easy set and forget. Solid makes more power but you have to check lash once and awhile depending on how you run it. They are a little louder then hydraulic but nothing like the old days lol. Stock 60s vettes with the solid cams sounded like they needed to be adjusted all the time. New designs and syntic oil helps big time. With solid cams the hard core racers can spot a problem befour its to late. When running a motor hard and on N.O.S when the motor denenates the lash changes. Fast hard core guys check there lash after each N.O.S pass. If it has changed they add fuel or back off on the N.O.S. If you dont mind checking lash once and awhile I would go with a solid its the cheapest way to get the most power. Soild roller is the best but its exspensive like three times as much. what about hydraulic roller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromley's Corvettes Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hydraulic roller is the best of both worlds they make almost as much power as solid rollers but you dont need to check lash. All the LS motors are hydraulic roller. Its a lot of work to change the cam and lifters and springs on a C-4. It would be nice to up grade your 383 to roller. You wont be sorry you will love it. It will rev faster and higher and make a lot more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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