Adding LG Air Ducts "QUESTION"

[SLAMMER]

You can use a pickle fork, but a lot of times you can damage the dust cap doing it that way. On a car as new as yours, I don't see the fork being needed.

Put a jack under the hub assembly (the round thing with the wheel studs sticking out) and lift it up a couple inches. This will compress the spring a bit to create tension on the lower arm. Strike the knuckle where it surrounds the ball joint (after removing the nut...) and it should fall free. You can also loosen the nut but not remove it to be sure it doesn't fall too far. Just don't strike the ball joint bolt itself no matter how tempting it is. If you whack it a few times from one side and it doesn't work, whack it from the other. It'll probably take 4 or 5 strikes to get it to fall free, but it will work.

CHRIS,

I did the jack thing today thinking that I have the weight of the car as leverage. Tom XOXO suggests that I disconect the sway bar linkage. I haven't done that don't see how that will help. The A arms move freely up and down while I raise and lower the hub assembly spindle. I did give the lower A arm a few little hits nothing too aggressive though.

SLAMMER

[Big Poppa]

You gotta whack it pretty good. It's essentially pressed together, and the shock of the hammer blows release the press fit. The ball joint "bolt" is slightly tapered, so it only presses just barely into the knuckle. You need the tension of the spring pressing down on the control arm to assist in dislodging the ball joint from the knuckle. You don't need a lot of pressure, just enough so that when you whack the knuckle and it releases it's grip on the ball joint for that few milliseconds, it will fall free. I don't see how the sway bar would affect it at all.

[SLAMMER]

I'M OFF TO THE GARAGE TO GO WACK OFF MY BALL JOINT!

SLAMMER

[Guest Sidewinder]

If you do get cross drilled rotors, make sure the holes are chamfered.

A radius (inner and outer) is much better than a chamfer, but a chamfer is better than nothing.

Does anyone even make those?

[TheCMSH]

I'M OFF TO THE GARAGE TO GO WACK OFF MY BALL JOINT!

SLAMMER

This......is a lesson for the noobs on how to get a tagline kids!

[Big Poppa]

<--- SLAMMER right now trying to get his car apart. Any luck dood?

[ChadC]

perhaps he is having issue with taking off his wheels?

..no wait that is some one else.

and a relevant pic

[SLAMMER]

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!

I just got back from lunch and read your posts and thought I would give it another try. This morning I used a 1 x 2 and a framing hammer. This afternoon I grabbed a 1/2 length of rebar and set it on top of the lower A arm and put a little bit of pressure from a jack underneth the hub and hit the rebar with my 22 oucne CLAW hammer and it popped off nicely. The nut is at the end of the ball joint thread holding everything together still. I wanted to come right in and post up my success. Thanks Chris and Tom for your help. It should be much easier on the drivers side with my new found knowledge.

SLAMMER :bang :bang

[Big Poppa]

Wo0t!!!!

[Blk n Blu]

[ChadC]

...nice

[SLAMMER]

BALL JOINT NUT REMOVED AND LOWER A ARM LOWERED TO ALLOW CLEARANCE OF SOCKET AND REMOVAL OF THIRD HUB BOLT.

BRAKE DUCT FLANGE ON IN PLACE, HUB BOLTS TORQUED TO 94 FT.LBS. AND NEW ROTORS ARE BEING DELIVERED ON THE 21st.

OLD HACK JOB FOR MOUNTING ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION COOLER.

THE NEW SCOOP INTAKE INSTALLED.

NEED TO LOOSEN HOSE CLAMPS ON SUPER CHARGER INTERCOOLER AND ROTATE BLOW OFF VALVE CLOCKWISE TO ALLOW FOR CLEARANCE OF PLASTIC ARM DUCT TO CONNECT TO NEW INTAKE.

STILL LOOKING FOR SPOT TO REMOUNT TRANY OIL COOLER.

SLAMMER

[Blk n Blu]

Nice, keep the pic's and info comming.

[HOXXOH]

BALL JOINT NUT REMOVED AND LOWER A ARM LOWERED TO ALLOW CLEARANCE OF SOCKET AND REMOVAL OF THIRD HUB BOLT.

BRAKE DUCT FLANGE ON IN PLACE, HUB BOLTS TORQUED TO 94 FT.LBS. AND NEW ROTORS ARE BEING DELIVERED ON THE 21st.

OLD HACK JOB FOR MOUNTING ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION COOLER.

THE NEW SCOOP INTAKE INSTALLED.

NEED TO LOOSEN HOSE CLAMPS ON SUPER CHARGER INTERCOOLER AND ROTATE BLOW OFF VALVE CLOCKWISE TO ALLOW FOR CLEARANCE OF PLASTIC ARM DUCT TO CONNECT TO NEW INTAKE.

STILL LOOKING FOR SPOT TO REMOUNT TRANY OIL COOLER.

SLAMMER

I thought you told me you had a thin finned cooler. Your pic shows a Hayden flat plate. Measure the length and the width (not including the flanges) and post it up. You really need to stop by and see how mine is mounted. I tried to take some photos, but can't get back far enough to be understandable.

[SLAMMER]

Yes Tom, I did recognize this cooler as being thick finned in its construction. It had been tucked away for so long that I just figured it was a more common thin finned style. I'll take some measurements Thursday morning and let you know. ITS 11" LONG AND 5 1/2" WIDE (HOW ABOUT THAT FOR A NEW TAG LINE)

SLAMMER

[phxcobra]

I've talked to PhilG who runs time trials and is really fast. he doesn't run a BBK. just get some decent rotors like powerslots and get them cryo'd. Those with the carbotech pads should do you well I think. A lot cheaper than brembos etc. just a thought

[SLAMMER]

I've talked to PhilG who runs time trials and is really fast. he doesn't run a BBK. just get some decent rotors like powerslots and get them cryo'd. Those with the carbotech pads should do you well I think. A lot cheaper than brembos etc. just a thought

Yes I just recently hear about cryoding? rotors to make the molecular structure of the metal harder. Where can you get that done around here? Any idea of the costs? Keep in mind I had NO vent to the passenger side duct and that is why I my rotor looks so bad. The drivers side just has tiny little cracks around many of he drilled holes. Another thing to avoid is the drilled rotors. (racing applications)

SLAMMER

[Blurr]

Tim,

You have been bitten by the slippery slope of racing.

Your passenger side rotor is shot, do not reinstall the rotor even for street driving. The rotor has seen significant temps, as you mentioned from the blockage of the inlet where the cooler was installed is the cause.

Here some guidelines for rotors and pads I've used in deciding to replace or not replace.

• if you can scratch your nail across a crack in the rotor and the nail catches in the crack, replace the rotor.
• Any cracks in the rotor that connect from one drilled hole to another , replace the rotor.
• Any cracks emitting from the drilled hole to the outer edge of of the rotor; replace the rotor.
• Small cracks emitting from the drilled hole but not connected to another drilled hole in the rotor are ok, just keep an eye on the rotor after each run.
• small cracks on the rotor are called checking cracks and are ok, just keep an eye on them.
• Cooling is everything in maximizing braking function and longevity of the rotor and pad.
• Replace brake pads at 75% of pad wear, if you wait longer you are transfering more heat to the calipers/fluid. On my race cars both the vette and stock car I replaced brake pads at 60% of wear. I can't remember but I think carbotech's new are 10mm

The Z06 calipers are plenty for HPDE and TT. IMHO you're wasting your money going with a big brake kit (brembo etc.) Since you are running the carbotechs you have introduced higher temps to the braking system, rotors, pads, brake lines, fluid and yes the hub. And this will increase when you add R compound tires the equation. This will require more inspection after your track weekend and parts will wear faster.. At this point, going with solid or slotted rotors, brake cooling such as what you are doing will provide the best hope for longevity of your rotors.

I don't have any experience with cryoing brakes and rotors but Phil B swears by them, when I see him this weekend I'll ask where he takes them, I know it is some place in Scottsdale.

Cheers Lou

[SLAMMER]

REAL GOOD INFO LOU! I have not replaced my hub just removed and reinstalled it. Now I see why people say racing is expensive. I though they were just talking about track fees and tires. It deffently has a domino effect. Upgrading one item causes you to have to replace or upgrade another. Now I'm working on the relocation of the transmission cooler. Think I'll add a second if this works out fine. See my new post and pictures. SLAMMER

[Blurr]

REAL GOOD INFO LOU! I have not replaced my hub just removed and reinstalled it. Now I see why people say racing is expensive. I though they were just talking about track fees and tires. It deffently has a domino effect. Upgrading one item causes you to have to replace or upgrade another. Now I'm working on the relocation of the transmission cooler. Think I'll add a second if this works out fine. See my new post and pictures.

SLAMMER

Checking the hubs are easy. Here's my process, raise the the car, with the tire and wheel installed on the hub and torqued, grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 O'clock position and see if you have any play, then at the 12 and 6 O' clock position do the samething. If you hear clunking or have "play" your hubs are on there way to wearing out. I'm sure there's some way to measure hub play but I don't know most of the race car guys do what I described.

Are you headed out to the track on Saturday with Proauto? I'll have the stock car there doing some test and tune with the new engine.

[SLAMMER]

LOU, gonna miss this one, Dam and it is only $40.... the car is up on stands and I have a softball game on Sat. The new transmission cooler and braided line with new black an fittings are coming on Saturday. I had them fed ex'ed. So I can be ready for Indie. I still have to take my car in to LPM to see what is causing the O2 sensors to throw codes. Should do that after the 29th of Dec. So at Indie I should be grooving with new rotors and ducts in the front along with two efficiently placed transmission oil coolers. See you at Indie! SLAMMER

[phxcobra]

I've talked to PhilG who runs time trials and is really fast. he doesn't run a BBK. just get some decent rotors like powerslots and get them cryo'd. Those with the carbotech pads should do you well I think. A lot cheaper than brembos etc. just a thought

Yes I just recently hear about cryoding? rotors to make the molecular structure of the metal harder. Where can you get that done around here? Any idea of the costs? Keep in mind I had NO vent to the passenger side duct and that is why I my rotor looks so bad. The drivers side just has tiny little cracks around many of he drilled holes. Another thing to avoid is the drilled rotors. (racing applications)

SLAMMER

Hope PhilG doesnt mind me passing along the info

I then take them to Charles Beresford of Cryogenics Int'l. He's located in the Scottsdale Airpark 480-991-0299

Phil

Tim,

You have been bitten by the slippery slope of racing.

Your passenger side rotor is shot, do not reinstall the rotor even for street driving. The rotor has seen significant temps, as you mentioned from the blockage of the inlet where the cooler was installed is the cause.

Here some guidelines for rotors and pads I've used in deciding to replace or not replace.

• if you can scratch your nail across a crack in the rotor and the nail catches in the crack, replace the rotor.
• Any cracks in the rotor that connect from one drilled hole to another , replace the rotor.
• Any cracks emitting from the drilled hole to the outer edge of of the rotor; replace the rotor.
• Small cracks emitting from the drilled hole but not connected to another drilled hole in the rotor are ok, just keep an eye on the rotor after each run.
• small cracks on the rotor are called checking cracks and are ok, just keep an eye on them.
• Cooling is everything in maximizing braking function and longevity of the rotor and pad.
• Replace brake pads at 75% of pad wear, if you wait longer you are transfering more heat to the calipers/fluid. On my race cars both the vette and stock car I replaced brake pads at 60% of wear. I can't remember but I think carbotech's new are 10mm

The Z06 calipers are plenty for HPDE and TT. IMHO you're wasting your money going with a big brake kit (brembo etc.) Since you are running the carbotechs you have introduced higher temps to the braking system, rotors, pads, brake lines, fluid and yes the hub. And this will increase when you add R compound tires the equation. This will require more inspection after your track weekend and parts will wear faster.. At this point, going with solid or slotted rotors, brake cooling such as what you are doing will provide the best hope for longevity of your rotors.

I don't have any experience with cryoing brakes and rotors but Phil B swears by them, when I see him this weekend I'll ask where he takes them, I know it is some place in Scottsdale.

Cheers Lou

This is great info Lou. See you Sat.

Pete