SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I bought and am in the process of installing the LG air duct system. I have to return my passenger intake scoop back to stock. Thanks to an unnamed shop for this Hack job of a modification for a transmission cooler. More on the new idea in another post. My question is I have taken off the front brake caliper and the top two bolts to be able to mount the duct flange for the rotor side. But can't get a alan head wrench or socket in to the lower recessed bolt. It is being blocked by the nut and bolt assembly shown below I need to remove the nut and bolt and that will give my room to get the third and finial bolt out so I can slip the duct flange in behind the hub. below is a picture of the duct flange assembly that get sandwiched behind the hub and has three holes to line up and bolt back in. The problem is I have no Idea what to expect when I remove the nut. (it is loose now and I can easily remove it) the top side of the bolt has a alan head opening. What can I expect to happen if I loosen or remove the vertical bolt. I just need to loosen the third alan head bolt holding on the hub. I then can slip the flange between and reinsert the bolts and tighten them up. I don't want the lower A arm to fall off. Thought I better ask now before I dig a deep hole. Speaking of holes look at my passenger side rotor. It was running 100* hotter than the drivers side which is still factory vented. How bad do the cracks need to be to consider changing the rotor. I have two more races I want to attend then I will order solid style rotors. The rears are perfect and show no signs of cracks. The drivers side has very tiny cracks on some of the holes. I attribute this to not having a vent to the passenger side and using racing compound brake pads. I am changing out the trany cooler intake back to the factory brake intake plus the LG ducting system beyond that. I am considering using my fog lights housing as the new trany cooler intakes and vent that out of the front inner fenders. Still not sure where to vent the exhaust to. I surly don't want to cause another air or aerodynamics problem. So venting location will take some research. Here is a link that was on the big forum where the fog lights were used to vent the front brakes more efficiently. http://www.thetwistedunderground.com/archive/index.php/thread-310.html SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azmotorhead Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 A CLAW HAMMER!! really?!?!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 That bolt... Just cut it off, you don't need it. And if you fill the cracks in the rotor with a bit of JB weld, you should be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 A CLAW HAMMER!! really?!?!?! IS THAT ALL YOU HAVE TO CONTRIBUTE? I'm a general contractor what else would I have? I have a rubber mallet but didn't want to get it greasy. Besides the flat end of the hammer is the end I used to hit the box wrench to loosen the caliper bolts. Bolts were too tight and I had no room for a cheater bar on the end of a socket wrench. Thats why they call me....... SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 CRITICS AND COMEDIANS HERE TONIGHT! SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 I can't help with your bolt...but I would not put that rotor back on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Wasn't sure your angle. Assumed you were joking. That lower "bolt" with the allen hole in it... That's the ball joint. It's a tension fit in the spindle. Whack the spindle where it surrounds the "bolt" with your claw hammer to dislodge it. Or get a pickle fork. The rotor... Never put it back on the car. Ever. Really, if you didn't know that was a ball joint, and you thought you could re-use the rotor, I recommend never working on your own car again. You're in over your head. These are things that if you get wrong can kill you. Holla at me, I'm happy to help you with this stuff any time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOXXOH Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Pretty big crack there Mr. Slammer. The bigger question is do you understand how and why that happened and what proceedure you need to follow to prevent it in the future? Stop by and peek at my cooler mounting set-up that cools far more than stock. You can look through my factory service manuals to see the way to remove that last bolt. We can also cuss and discuss rotors. Give me a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 AHHHHHHH now thats what is so great about this forum. Real help is just a few questions away because there are such knowledgeable and friendly people here! SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Pretty big crack there Mr. Slammer. The bigger question is do you understand how and why that happened and what proceedure you need to follow to prevent it in the future? Stop by and peek at my cooler mounting set-up that cools far more than stock. You can look through my factory service manuals to see the way to remove that last bolt. We can also cuss and discuss rotors. Give me a call. YES TOM, not having at least factory ducting (passenger side only) coupled with racing pads kills drilled rotors and braking from 150 mph down to 65 really heats up your rotors. I have begun to rectify the ducting and with the LG system It will put the cooler air right on the rotors. Also I read that if you race your car you should stay away from drilled rotors. The damage is only on the passenger side rotor. Thanks Tom SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Really, if you didn't know that was a ball joint, and you thought you could re-use the rotor, I recommend never working on your own car again. You're in over your head. (quote from big poppa) WOW CHRIS, KINDA ROUGH! However I understand what your saying. that is why I didn't take apart something I didn't understand. I asked first! Yes the rotor looks pretty bad but I was told its OK with those small cracks. I only discovered the two larger outer cracks after racing the other weekend. Was not sure if it is not warped what the cut off rule is. I figured I would go for broke with the old rotors and new race pads and see what happened. Planning all along that I would be in the market for new rotors after racing. Due in part from wear not from heat cracks. I can generally look at something and carefully disassembly the item paying close attention on how it went together. Then put it back together. But I figured guys like you could and would give me the advice and knowledge I was missing. For god sakes man I can build a house from the ground up I should be able to carefully take this apart and reassemble back together with the help of my ACE buddies. Thank you Sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar! Sir Slam A Lot (king of the claw hammer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOXXOH Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Pretty big crack there Mr. Slammer. The bigger question is do you understand how and why that happened and what proceedure you need to follow to prevent it in the future? Stop by and peek at my cooler mounting set-up that cools far more than stock. You can look through my factory service manuals to see the way to remove that last bolt. We can also cuss and discuss rotors. Give me a call. YES TOM, not having at least factory ducting (passenger side only) coupled with racing pads kills drilled rotors and braking from 150 mph down to 65 really heats up your rotors. I have begun to rectify the ducting and with the LG system It will put the cooler air right on the rotors. Also I read that if you race your car you should stay away from drilled rotors. The damage is only on the passenger side rotor. Thanks Tom SLAMMER It's not the heat that cracks rotors, it's the rate of cooling. That's why there are small surface cracks around the holes, because the heat dissipates too quickly due to lack of mass. On your cool down lap, hit the brakes kinda hard at first and then less and less as you return to the pits. That'll slow the rate of cooling. Then stop where you can move the car a foot about every minute for at least the first 10 minutes. That will allow the rotors to cool evenly, rather than retaining heat while covered by the pads. When you come over, I'll show you another problem you'll want to avoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Really, if you didn't know that was a ball joint, and you thought you could re-use the rotor, I recommend never working on your own car again. You're in over your head. (quote from big poppa) WOW RICH, KINDA ROUGH! Sir Slam A Lot (king of the claw hammer) Well, my name is Chris, but you paid for the hour, you can call me whatever you want. I'm just sayin... If you don't have some fairly basic knowledge of this stuff, this particular job may be beyond your scope. Think of what would happen at 135 in your convertible when you stand on the brake and the rotor comes apart. Or the front bearing assembly comes apart. Or the ball joint comes apart. Your car is to pretty to hurt. Nobody wants that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blk n Blu Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Slammer, your tracking your car. It might be a good time to do an upgrade on the brakes. And I would get rid of both rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Slammer, your tracking your car. It might be a good time to do an upgrade on the brakes. And I would get rid of both rotors. What up grade would you do? I already upgraded from the stock C6 smaller brake system to the Z06 and added steel braided lines. Also run with Carbotec street as well as track pads. I agree about replacement of the front rotors. I have looked at some two piece styles. It is more expensive at first but later on you only have to buy the rotor rings. costs look like between $600 and $900 per pair and the replacement rings start at $300 a pair. The two pcs. are aprox. 10 lbs lighter too! Is there any benefit or draw back to slotted rotors. I know the drilled type are problematic to cracking with heavy track use. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Really, if you didn't know that was a ball joint, and you thought you could re-use the rotor, I recommend never working on your own car again. You're in over your head. (quote from big poppa) WOW RICH, KINDA ROUGH! Sir Slam A Lot (king of the claw hammer) Well, my name is Chris, but you paid for the hour, you can call me whatever you want. I'm just sayin... If you don't have some fairly basic knowledge of this stuff, this particular job may be beyond your scope. Think of what would happen at 135 in your convertible when you stand on the brake and the rotor comes apart. Or the front bearing assembly comes apart. Or the ball joint comes apart. Your car is to pretty to hurt. Nobody wants that... My sincere apologies to you Chris! I was so intent on getting my reply out I suffered from a temporary spell of amnesia. I do APOLOGIES to you sir, once again. By the way what is your hourly charge? Beeeaawcccch SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 10 lbs will have a huge effect on your track times. ..perhaps (if you are not doing so already) get a set of lighter OEM track only wheels/tires. Ill bet thoes purdy 20' are not sphelt. From causal reading on the Big forum the z06 rotors/disks are only a small improvement over stock. the big boys go with brembo or willwood, front and rear. if you havent done so already, ditch your Fog lights and use the opening fro extra cooling. There are a few guys in the S/C section that use Earls Curved Oil Cooler for tranny cooling on one side and Oil on the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 No worries muh man... As far as pricing, i don't advertise online as Yoder might notify the vice unit. And Cahd... It's "svelte".... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blk n Blu Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Slammer, your tracking your car. It might be a good time to do an upgrade on the brakes. And I would get rid of both rotors. What up grade would you do? I already upgraded from the stock C6 smaller brake system to the Z06 and added steel braided lines. Also run with Carbotec street as well as track pads. I agree about replacement of the front rotors. I have looked at some two piece styles. It is more expensive at first but later on you only have to buy the rotor rings. costs look like between $600 and $900 per pair and the replacement rings start at $300 a pair. The two pcs. are aprox. 10 lbs lighter too! Is there any benefit or draw back to slotted rotors. I know the drilled type are problematic to cracking with heavy track use. SLAMMER I didn't know you've upgraded already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FNBADAZ06 Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 WOW....that rotor is toast....toss that motha' NOW !!!! If you're going to continue using the aggressive brake pads, swapping to a slotted rotor in lieu of the OEM cross drilled units will be an improvement, but remember, those aggressive pads are going to eat ANY rotor you put on it, and will require you to perform a complete inspection of the rotors following a weekend at the track. I beleive Lou was going thru OEM pads ever couple of events, and rotors maybe at half that rate with just the OEM braking system. You already identified that the rotor got super heated with the more aggressive pads and the lack of a functional OEM cooling duct to that rotor. The dedicated spindel/brake ducts are going to go a LONG way to supplying cooling air to the rotor/spindel assemblies. Combined with slotted rotors, your DOT 4+ fluids, and your existing aftermarket braided brake lines, you'll have MORE than enough brake power to continue in our HPDE events. If you decide to go balls out and get into TT's with Hoosier racing slicks, an upgraded brake system MIGHT come into play. I don't think Phil has/had upgraded aftermarket brakes on his GS, yet he was extremly fast in his car with a full coil-over setup, standard seats (with track bar), and CCW/Hoosier R6 combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 If you do get cross drilled rotors, make sure the holes are chamfered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 I think I'm going with a two piece front rotor set up with a slotted milled face. the completely smooth two piece rotors were $900 per pair. I'm not sure what brand or manufacture to go with only one manufacture had a specific racing rotor that was slightly thicker walled than their ordinary street sport rotor. that was through Zip corvettes and was made by Coleman racing. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOXXOH Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 If you do get cross drilled rotors, make sure the holes are chamfered. A radius (inner and outer) is much better than a chamfer, but a chamfer is better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 14, 2011 Author Share Posted December 14, 2011 WEDNESDAY is removal of lower ball joint day. I need to lower the bolt to gain clearance to the last remaining hub assembly bolt. LG motor-sports rep told me over the phone I should just loosen the nut and the bolt will just fall down. Yea right. I have to go buy a pickle fork to get the lower ball joint apart. seems to be the thing to do this week! SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Poppa Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 You can use a pickle fork, but a lot of times you can damage the dust cap doing it that way. On a car as new as yours, I don't see the fork being needed. Put a jack under the hub assembly (the round thing with the wheel studs sticking out) and lift it up a couple inches. This will compress the spring a bit to create tension on the lower arm. Strike the knuckle where it surrounds the ball joint (after removing the nut...) and it should fall free. You can also loosen the nut but not remove it to be sure it doesn't fall too far. Just don't strike the ball joint bolt itself no matter how tempting it is. If you whack it a few times from one side and it doesn't work, whack it from the other. It'll probably take 4 or 5 strikes to get it to fall free, but it will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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