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Catch can...worth the cash?


fourseventeen

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Corvette tax in action.

In this case, it's not a Vette Tax, but a "race car tech" tax.

That high pressure stuff is some pricey hardware..it just happens to look perty as well :yeah:

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Corvette tax in action.

In this case, it's not a Vette Tax, but a "race car tech" tax.

That high pressure stuff is some pricey hardware..it just happens to look perty as well :yeah:

Yeah and if the catch can needed high pressure fittings I would understand a little more lol.

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100.00 for line and fittings just for the catch can...holy sh*t!!! Guess I wont be doing that option.

Ted, I did win the lotto....5 bucks on a $10.00 scratcher ticket this past week, how did you know!?

-AN fitting noob !!!! :smilelol

Welcome to the world of "high performance", grasshopper :3gears:

Heck I guess so lol. Thats some serious cash for 12" of hose and a couple of aluminum fittings. Guess rubber line and black barb fittings are gonna have to do for now. Cant see spending the same amount of cash on a foot of line as I am on the entire oil catch can.

Now you'll have an appreciation of the monetary investment when you see this kind of serious hardware under the hood of any car. Plumb your entire car with this stuff and see how quickly the benjamins dissappear. :eek

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Corvette tax in action.

In this case, it's not a Vette Tax, but a "race car tech" tax.

That high pressure stuff is some pricey hardware..it just happens to look perty as well :yeah:

Yeah and if the catch can needed high pressure fittings I would understand a little more lol.

In "race cars", it doesn't even need to be high pressure. Those cars can't have the possibilty of a blown or leaking rubber line that contains oil or fuel. They also have very little tolerance for coolant leaking out of the car onto the racing surface. For street cars it's usually for the insurance of a tight, leak free seal and the look. :banannasword:

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100.00 for line and fittings just for the catch can...holy sh*t!!! Guess I wont be doing that option.

Ted, I did win the lotto....5 bucks on a $10.00 scratcher ticket this past week, how did you know!?

-AN fitting noob !!!! :smilelol

Welcome to the world of "high performance", grasshopper :3gears:

Heck I guess so lol. Thats some serious cash for 12" of hose and a couple of aluminum fittings. Guess rubber line and black barb fittings are gonna have to do for now. Cant see spending the same amount of cash on a foot of line as I am on the entire oil catch can.

Now you'll have an appreciation of the monetary investment when you see this kind of serious hardware under the hood of any car. Plumb your entire car with this stuff and see how quickly the benjamins dissappear. :eek

well I guess if I dropped 30k to mod the motor a couple hundred for lines wouldnt matter but considering my motor is no masterpiece I dont see a point in dropping 100+ for the 12" of line you will barely see. lol.

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100.00 for line and fittings just for the catch can...holy sh*t!!! Guess I wont be doing that option.

Ted, I did win the lotto....5 bucks on a $10.00 scratcher ticket this past week, how did you know!?

-AN fitting noob !!!! :smilelol

Welcome to the world of "high performance", grasshopper :3gears:

Heck I guess so lol. Thats some serious cash for 12" of hose and a couple of aluminum fittings. Guess rubber line and black barb fittings are gonna have to do for now. Cant see spending the same amount of cash on a foot of line as I am on the entire oil catch can.

Now you'll have an appreciation of the monetary investment when you see this kind of serious hardware under the hood of any car. Plumb your entire car with this stuff and see how quickly the benjamins dissappear. :eek

well I guess if I dropped 30k to mod the motor a couple hundred for lines wouldnt matter but considering my motor is no masterpiece I dont see a point in dropping 100+ for the 12" of line you will barely see. lol.

:agree

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yes it sure does look purty but unless im doing everything in the engine bay there isnt much point to only do the catch can.

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oil in the combustion chamber has a tendancy to lower the power output, mainly because it causes predetonation and the engine management brings the timing down to reduce it. id say if your geting on the throttle frequently then its a good investment (i have to give credit to nick from lpm for the info)

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oil in the combustion chamber has a tendancy to lower the power output, mainly because it causes predetonation and the engine management brings the timing down to reduce it. id say if your geting on the throttle frequently then its a good investment (i have to give credit to nick from lpm for the info)

OK, I'll bite. Essentially how does oil in the combustion chamber cause either preignition or detonation?

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I'm not sure about the C6 motors, but on an LS1 I'd say you better get one. I run the rpm's up a lot on my car and it puts a ton of oil out into the intake. I bought a cheapie off ebay and did some modifications to make it do what I want. I don't have cats and before I put the can on my garage would fill with exhaust smell. Once the can was put on, the smell is almost completely gone. I empty it out and get 2 to 4 ounces out each time. Just depends how many miles on how often I drain it.

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There's never been an oil change where I've been down more than 1/2 quart. My typical mileage between changes is 12-13K. It would seem that if I were using a quart every 5000 miles that some was possibly being sucked into the intake. But only slightly over an ounce per 1000 miles is no reason to think a catch can would stop what likely doesn't exist.

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oil in the combustion chamber has a tendancy to lower the power output, mainly because it causes predetonation and the engine management brings the timing down to reduce it. id say if your geting on the throttle frequently then its a good investment (i have to give credit to nick from lpm for the info)

OK, I'll bite. Essentially how does oil in the combustion chamber cause either preignition or detonation?

I believe it has a similar effect to lowering your octane.

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oil in the combustion chamber has a tendancy to lower the power output, mainly because it causes predetonation and the engine management brings the timing down to reduce it. id say if your geting on the throttle frequently then its a good investment (i have to give credit to nick from lpm for the info)

OK, I'll bite. Essentially how does oil in the combustion chamber cause either preignition or detonation?

I believe it has a similar effect to lowering your octane.

Funny, now that you mention it, I have not heard any pinging/knocking from my engine either. When I had NicD tune the car he tried to get rid of it, but in the higher RPM range he said he couldn't. We taked about it along with the guy who runs the dyno and both mentioned "bad" gas, but I always use Chevron.

Well, I suppose it could have been oil in the intake runners that is now greatly reduced with the catch can.

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oil in the combustion chamber has a tendancy to lower the power output, mainly because it causes predetonation and the engine management brings the timing down to reduce it. id say if your geting on the throttle frequently then its a good investment (i have to give credit to nick from lpm for the info)

OK, I'll bite. Essentially how does oil in the combustion chamber cause either preignition or detonation?

I believe it has a similar effect to lowering your octane.

Nah, oil does not spontaneously combust under high heat and pressure, certainly not before the gasoline would. Besides, I, as I am sure many others in here have operated chainsaws and ridden two-stroke motorcycles to the absoulute limit without shredding a spark plug due to detonation or preignition and they pass tons of oil through the combustion chamber at high compression ratios.

The only thing I can get at, maybe is that enough oil will eventually lead to carbon deposits, and those carbon deposits can collect in poorly designed engines and create hot spots that can cause detonation or pre-ignition. But, ummm, yeah. Not buying the oil and detonation thing, personally.

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Oil in the combustion chamber most certainly will cause detonation both with carbon build up and hot spots but oil also essentially lowers the octane of the fuel since it will auto ignite pretty easily. I personally don't believe routing the gasses back into the motor from the crankcase has any place on a race motor or something with forced induction that you are pushing hard but that's another discussion.

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Oil in the combustion chamber most certainly will cause detonation both with carbon build up and hot spots but oil also essentially lowers the octane of the fuel since it will auto ignite pretty easily.

I personally don't believe routing the gasses back into the motor from the crankcase has any place on a race motor or something with forced induction that you are pushing hard but that's another discussion.

sounds like Nic says...get a catch can :thumbs moneys tight right now but in a couple weeks ill snag one up I think
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Oil in the combustion chamber most certainly will cause detonation both with carbon build up and hot spots but oil also essentially lowers the octane of the fuel since it will auto ignite pretty easily.

I personally don't believe routing the gasses back into the motor from the crankcase has any place on a race motor or something with forced induction that you are pushing hard but that's another discussion.

Well this pissed me off, so I called one of my friends who is an engineer at Quaker State in Houston. LOL

So there is a yes and no here. Does motor oil affect the octane of the fuel? Yes, depending on the amount. Typically concentrations misted through the intake tract do not affect the octane rating, but as these amounts climb past 5% oil to fuel by volume, the octane rating can drop by as much as a full point. They have not performed any testing past this level, even for two-strokes.

So, if the tank holds 18 gallons, this is 2304 ounces. If we take 5 percent of this and call it oil to drop the octane a full point, it means the engine would have to burn 115.2 ounces of oil every fillup to drop the octane a full point. This is a little over 3 quarts. You have bigger problems at that point.

But, back to the salient point. Yes, oil in the fuel will drop the octane. A teensie, tiny bit, LOL.

I was wrong. I am going to go kick my own ass.

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Oil in the combustion chamber most certainly will cause detonation both with carbon build up and hot spots but oil also essentially lowers the octane of the fuel since it will auto ignite pretty easily.

I personally don't believe routing the gasses back into the motor from the crankcase has any place on a race motor or something with forced induction that you are pushing hard but that's another discussion.

Well this pissed me off, so I called one of my friends who is an engineer at Quaker State in Houston. LOL

So there is a yes and no here. Does motor oil affect the octane of the fuel? Yes, depending on the amount. Typically concentrations misted through the intake tract do not affect the octane rating, but as these amounts climb past 5% oil to fuel by volume, the octane rating can drop by as much as a full point. They have not performed any testing past this level, even for two-strokes.

So, if the tank holds 18 gallons, this is 2304 ounces. If we take 5 percent of this and call it oil to drop the octane a full point, it means the engine would have to burn 115.2 ounces of oil every fillup to drop the octane a full point. This is a little over 3 quarts. You have bigger problems at that point.

But, back to the salient point. Yes, oil in the fuel will drop the octane. A teensie, tiny bit, LOL.

I was wrong. I am going to go kick my own ass.

Thats under the assumption youll be pulling oil in the intake at all times while driving. If you think about the percentage your at WOT or conditions where the oil will be pulled into the intake it is very low unless you are on the racetrack all day. So guessing that we are in those parameters maybe 2% of the time (rough estimate) it makes more sense. It also varies grealty from car to car.

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I agree. It is a good thing to debate, though. Hell, I learned something. Can't be all bad. One thing for sure, I agree completely with Nic when it comes to burning crankcase vapors in FI and Max Effort applications.

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Oil in the combustion chamber most certainly will cause detonation both with carbon build up and hot spots but oil also essentially lowers the octane of the fuel since it will auto ignite pretty easily.

I personally don't believe routing the gasses back into the motor from the crankcase has any place on a race motor or something with forced induction that you are pushing hard but that's another discussion.

sounds like Nic says...get a catch can :thumbs moneys tight right now but in a couple weeks ill snag one up I think

Well I'm far from an expert, but I certainly doubt that a gasoline to oil ratio of 1000 to 1 would cause any carbon build up or cause pre-ignition, let alone have any measurable reduction of octane.

Unless you're using more than 1 quart every 5000 miles, an oil catch can is just bling.

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I would recomend a good catch can. DO NOT get the Jegs or Summit catch can, they are way, way too small. They hold about a shot glass of oil. The one on the OP will hold about a pint or so. We have a Summit one (EDIT: on the 440)and don't get me wrong, it does work but we have to drain it after a few runs. I have to say engines of this caliber are better off with a catch can, due to hotspots from carbon buid up causing detonation plus it keeps oil out of the TB and intake runner. We have had one in on the LS1 for a long time and it definately catches a lot of oil.

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Blue Angel Vette

Ok so being the noob here I'll ask the noob question. From reading the posts it seems like the oil catch can is necessary on these cars. If it is so essential, why didn't Chevy design the cars with the cans?

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