Jump to content
NOTICE TO ALL ACE MEMBERS - Forum Decommissioning ×

Why I missed dyno day...


Donbecker

Recommended Posts

hey don, i see you have the mockup for the air bridge and the C4 air filter setup - we had a guy in our group that did this type of setup - however he used a cone filter attached right to the throttle body - his CF name is/was TunedPort78 - yes you old school freaks - Vic Guido had a tuned port in his 78!

might want to think about that setup before you start cutting and pulling hair out!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey don, i see you have the mockup for the air bridge and the C4 air filter setup - we had a guy in our group that did this type of setup - however he used a cone filter attached right to the throttle body - his CF name is/was TunedPort78 - yes you old school freaks - Vic Guido had a tuned port in his 78!

might want to think about that setup before you start cutting and pulling hair out!

I like Don's idea better.

They make silicone elbows and tube connectors. You should and could move your air filter / intake to down in front of the radiator or somewhere where it will get direct cool air.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I think I'm going to use pvc or something easy like that. Would that last or do I need some real metal down there?

I've eyeballed it, and I think I can get a tube between the radiator shroud and in front of the a-arm.

The 90o bend though isn't the best, so I'm not too happy about that.

I will tell you folks this, it really wasn't that hard (this was my first intake swap).

The wiring for this is actually going to be pretty easy, I'm hoping to have Liz help with more pics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PCV will work -- for a while. In that heat it will tend to get brittle and will crack and split after a while.

Most people use the silicone connectors and steel tubing, like used for exhaust work. You can get it in sizes from 1 3/4 all the way to 5". Either get it in stainless and polish it or regular steel and paint or powdercoat it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool.

In the pics, the plenum has been polished, and I started on the driver side runners.

It is crazy hard to get all of it done, I'm not sure on whether I want to spend the time now to finish it, I'd rather have it run...

I'm off to do the wiring harness...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PCV will work -- for a while. In that heat it will tend to get brittle and will crack and split after a while.

Most people use the silicone connectors and steel tubing, like used for exhaust work. You can get it in sizes from 1 3/4 all the way to 5". Either get it in stainless and polish it or regular steel and paint or powdercoat it.

Don if you make me a mock up out of pvc, I can duplicate it in stainless.

I just need the measurments.

I would rather spend a couple of hours helping to get it perfect , then have some pvp plumbing pieces strand you someplace!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wires, wires everywhere!

Actually wasn't too bad, I remember it all, it was pretty simple, I'm hoping to do a 'howto' doc on it, should be pretty simple to do wire by wire...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, here's the list left to do:

1. Get Fuel pump

2. Fabricate fuel lines in the engine compartment

3. Run a couple power wires

4. Get my controller back (it's off to Cali for a mod to support 8 injectors)

5. New water neck

6. Cut/get an upper radiator hose to fit

7. Intake tubing

So probably not.

I will be working pretty crazy on it this week as we are currently down to just the Jeep (we only have 2 cars).

So who knows?

I'm thinking it will take at least a day or two after construction to get it drivable (to and from work).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some of the Pep Boys / Autozone places sell the flexible stainless steel radiator hoses. I have a set on my car and they work great. Just find the length, cut with a hacksaw, and bend to any wacky angle you need. Good thing is you never have to replace them again. They won't rot or rust or burst.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea Brian.

Are those the ones that have the stainless 'attached' to the rubber or is it just a sleeve?

I bought some braided SS hose that was cr@p IMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea Brian.

Are those the ones that have the stainless 'attached' to the rubber or is it just a sleeve?

I bought some braided SS hose that was cr@p IMHO.

It's neither. It is a full on steel hose. The only rubber is two 4" sleeves at the end that act as couplers.

Here is the full kit with fancy ends --- 48" of hose, adapters, everything needed for a complete job - $125 ish.

sum-390124.jpg

Here is the kit without the polished ends - 48" of hose and adapters - $90.

sum-390012.jpg

Like I said you can bend this at some crazy angles and it won't kink or collapse and will NEVER have to be replaced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:agree

Sounds like you have a little time, bought mine from summit. Nobody had it here locally. Have pretty good prices on flex hose. Bought one for my upper radiator hose. Expensive, but you don't have to worry about it for a long. Realy easy to bend into place.

Should of done my lower hose this way. Heater hoses just started leaking also, going to swap them out with flex hose.

Summit Flex Hose

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...