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C5 Automatic Transmission Service


Grape Ape

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I drained my fluid and changed the filter this morning and was wondering if anyone else has done this? The book says it will hold about 5 quarts of new oil when the pan is removed. I can only get just under 3 in through the drain/fill plug. Is there another place to finish filling this thing? I have looked just about all the places I can get to and don't see any other plugs. Do I just drive it a few miles and then recheck it? The manual says to remove the temp sensor and fill through that but I think that is for the manual tranny. If that is the way I'm supposed to finish this job, where the heck is that thing?

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I do not have an auto, but from the fluid you drained, does it look like 3 or 5 quarts?

Yes, looks a little more then 3 to me. Looks like it has the amount that I get when I change my oil in the Grand Prix which it 5 quarts.

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I do not have an auto, but from the fluid you drained, does it look like 3 or 5 quarts?

Yes, looks a little more then 3 to me. Looks like it has the amount that I get when I change my oil in the Grand Prix which it 5 quarts.

Did you start the car and check while it was running?

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Uhhh, no. I forgot about that part. I went out and checked again and I really don't see any other way of getting the fluid in the pan. I will do the run and check now though. I normally do that on the other cars but totally forgot about that with this one. Probably because it's under the car and not easy to get to. Thanks Phil.

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OK, I went out and ran the thing while it was in the air and cycled the gears. Got another 1.3 quarts in it. Should be good to go now. I will drive it a little and check it again. Thanks for reminding this old man Phil..

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Caution: When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the check/fill plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid.

Raise and suitably support the vehicle.

Place a drain pan under the transmission.

Clean any dirt from around the transmission check/fill plug.

Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug and allow the fluid to drain.

Support the transmission oil pan.

Remove the transmission oil pan bolts.

Loosely reinstall the fluid check/fill plug.

Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry gently in order to loosen the pan.

Remove the transmission oil pan.

Drain the remaining fluid from the oil pan.

Important: Note the position of the filter before removal to aid in installation.

Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter.

Remove the filter seal.

The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal.

Discard the seal.

Inspect the transmission fluid.

Inspect the transmission fluid filter.

Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart.

The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis:

• Clutch material

• Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear

• Steel particles

Important: Remove ALL traces of old gasket material from the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces.

Clean the oil pan gasket mating surfaces, on both the transmission case and the transmission oil pan, with solvent and air dry.

Installation Procedure

Coat the new filter seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent.

Install the new filter seal into the transmission case.

Gently tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket.

Install the new oil filter into position as noted during removal.

Inspect the oil pan bolts and washers to determine if the conical washers are reversed.

• Reuse the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are NOT reversed (1).

• Replace the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are reversed (2).

Install the new oil pan gasket to the oil pan sealing surface.

Position the oil pan to the transmission case and support the oil pan.

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the oil pan bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the transmission oil pan bolts alternately and evenly to 11 N·m (97 lb in).

Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug.

Fill the transmission with DEXRON®-III automatic transmission fluid through the check/fill plug hole until fluid begins to pour out, then install the check/fill plug hand-tight.

Complete filling the transmission with fluid to the proper level.

Tighten the transmission fluid check/fill plug.

Tighten

Tighten the transmission fluid check/fill plug to 30 N·m (22 lb ft)

Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.

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Thanks Ed. Great to have. I will remember that for the next time. No where in there does it say to run the car though!!! I got another 1.3 quarts in it while it was running. I used the only oil that would work for this car. Royal Purple!!!!! :lol Used it for the diff lub as well.

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Thanks Ed. Great to have. I will remember that for the next time. No where in there does it say to run the car though!!! I got another 1.3 quarts in it while it was running. I used the only oil that would work for this car. Royal Purple!!!!! :lol Used it for the diff lub as well.

Royal Purple huh? You better hide from the other Mark (Sidewinder) :lol he'll smack your peepee for that one.

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Soooooooooo, did I do something wrong? AGAIN!!!!

In some post, in some thread around here, he mentions the "quality" of Royal Purple "over" other brands. :lol

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Is this the tread?

http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/...hl=royal+purple

I read it and am informed now. I got out of it, "Why spend the money for Royal Purple when there is oil equal to or better then it." I didn't put it in the crank case though. Just the tranny and diff. So it will be there for some time now. The deed is already done.

Sorry, Mark. I did not read that before I bought it.....

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Is this the tread?

http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/...hl=royal+purple

I read it and am informed now. I got out of it, "Why spend the money for Royal Purple when there is oil equal to or better then it." I didn't put it in the crank case though. Just the tranny and diff. So it will be there for some time now. The deed is already done.

Sorry, Mark. I did not read that before I bought it.....

I'm having a little trepidation on your part now. Did your tranny already have Royal Purple in it???? You do realize that when you "change" your tranny oil and filter you are not even changing half of your tranny oil right?

I know Royal Purple uses some different formulation for their stuff, I'm not sure how GM stuff and Royal will interact if that's the case.

Anyone have any thoughts on this???

The crank case should not be a big deal, most if not all of it comes out when it's drained.

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You do realize that when you "change" your tranny oil and filter you are not even changing half of your tranny oil right?

:thumbs

Very true most of the fluid is in the torque converter. To truly do a full fluid change at home you'll have to pull to drain the converter. Shops have a pump system to evacuate the old fluid and replace with new.

Oh yeah, unless you were running a synthetic fluid in it before I would not mix in a synthetic like "royal purple".

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