1963 Corvette Split Window Coupe

[Ted Y]

As some of you may remember, this was a car that I wanted to buy last summer but I couldn't swing it then (and still can't). The seller is my ex-girlfriend's father and is a straight up guy that I trust. The car is located in the San Diego area. The last time I saw this car was before Tom prepared the car for sale. The following is his ad and the car goes to ebay next week:

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1963 corvette coupe purchased from a dealer by me in 1977. (I have the bill of sale). The engine and transmission are both stamped with the vin #. I'm pretty sure the engine has never been out of the car. Here are the numbers : VIN 30837S104540 ( built 2nd week of Dec 1962) early car with toolbox depressions under the seats

Block casting # 3872870 dated J 29 2 (sept 1962) stamped 3104540 FIII3RF (assembled Nov 13 1962)

Transmission T10-D1 Stamped 3104540 WL 1921

RH head casting # 3782461 date K 9 2 (Oct 9 62)

LH head casting # 3782461 date K 6 2 (oct 6 62)

Alternator 1100628 date 2 L 15 (Nov 62)

Distributor 1111022 date 2 F 15 (Nov 62)

Intake Manifold casting # 3826810 no date

All of the above are original and correct for this car

Fuel injection unit casting # 7017380 serial 1306 (1964) this 1964/65 unit has a starting solenoid instead of the cranking signal valve of the 1963 unit making for easier starting, otherwise they are the same.

This car has been detailed but not restored. The car was sebring silver when I bought in 1977 it but the data plate shows it to be a white car.

The dealer told me that this car was all original. I didn't know the difference and back then nobody cared. The car ran perfectly but the odometer was broken. I have probably driven this car less than 2000 miles in the last 30 years so the real mileage is unknown. I stored this car back in the mid 1980"s hoping to revive it after retirement. I pulled it out of the garage in 2007 to prepare it for use. The following has been done: New radiator, new heater core, rear suspension bushings replaced, stabilizer bar bushings replaced, Frame sanded and sprayed with rust converter then painted with Eastwood "chassis black", The clock, wonderbar radio, and the windshield wiper/washer have been professionally restored and are still under warranty. The fuel unit was totally disassembled, cleaned, and all rubber parts replaced. new hoses, belts, and clamps (to NCRS standards) The engine compartment and the interior have been completely detailed. Everthing works except the odometer. The exhaust pipes are rusty but have no leaks. The car runs and drives properly. The paint has some chips and scratches but is still a good "ten footer". The tires are hardly worn Michelin XWX VR rated (149 mph) but they are 30 years old, the spare is the original 670/15 whitewall.

Here is what I found NOT original. The NCRS says NO 1963 corvette had factory Knock offs! These wheels are genuine Kelsy Hayes originals but are dated 1965. This car has power steering and hydraulic lifters. No original fuel cars had these. Looking closely at the block stamping I think someone filed the end of the code down and replaced a "D" with an "F" thus changing a 300 hp stamp to a 360 hp. (see pix) Then they did a very thorough job of adding the fuel injection and associated parts (radiator shroud, distributor, tachometer, oil pressure lines, water pump bypass, emblems, etc). Maybe GM should have built it this way (they did have hyd lifter fuel cars from 1957 to 1961). It does make for a very nice driving car and no monthly valve adjustments. A repaint, new tires, and exhaust would make this a show winner but I am 70 years old now and it is difficult for me to get into the darn thing so somebody else can enjoy it!

I think my age entitles me to make a few comments about the car hobby. All of you youngsters who think that its likely that a 45 year old car has only 60,000 "original miles" or so are dreaming. Most mid-years have odometer failure between 50 and 60 thousand miles. Its an easy fix if you are restoring the car and have removed the instrument panel but its not easy to remove that panel. Same is true of a car that old that "drives like new" Only if a frame off has been done and all the body mounts replaced and every rubber part replaced will that happen. Earlier this year I sold a 1968 Camaro that was bought new by someone in my family. It showed 61,000 miles. I had overhauled the engine and trans prior to sale and it was a beautiful car but I had to be honest and advertise it correctly as having 261,000 miles!! It ran very well but not quite like new! What you are actually buying is automotive art!! Beautiful cars that defy time and don't look like todays jelly bean cars. The old "muscle cars" are great but many of todays new cars are not only faster but perform better in all respects. Anyhow, happy bidding to all.

Tom H.

Sales price: $42,000 FIRM!

contact at: tomhom@cox.net

[Ted Y]

[MikeMc71]

WOW....nice car Ted..........

[Bigfoot]

Wow, very nice. Wish I had the cash. I wish him good luck with the sale.

[kwikvet]

refreshng to see someone as honest as he is in his description, I bet the car will sell quickly.

[Rimcrew]

Holy cow - that car won't last a day! Sure wish I could liquidate my crap and buy it...

Thanks for sharing.

[Ted Y]

I know... I have very mixed (and selfish) reasons about seeing him sell this car. But like he said, he's 70 now and can't enjoy the car.

[Guest 7]

Beautiful car, good luck on the sale.

[Ted Y]

Anyone who is interested in follow up:

This car sold on eBay for $55k and change. Probably a low to average market price for this car/condition and potential.

I am very sad...