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Tune by Nic


Grape Ape

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Tim informed me tonight that I never posted my results after Nic tuned my car. Well, here are the results of the first and forth dyno runs. If you are getting your car tuned by Nic, you can expect similar results. This is after he fixed the other tune that I had that didn't go so well. He did a great job. I don't remember what the exact torque was but I think it was around 315. I forgot to let you know that this is on a pretty stock C5.

1998CorvetteDynoRun1and4AfterTune.jpg

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You don't show the peak numbers, but it looks like a solid 10 or 11 hp at the wheels from the change in tune. Not bad.

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I'm hoping with some of the bolt ons that I have that he gets me a touch over 300. :xfinger:lol

I would hope so, I'm @ 338/351 with almost same mods!

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I'm hoping with some of the bolt ons that I have that he gets me a touch over 300. :xfinger:lol

I would hope so, I'm @ 338/351 with almost same mods!

While you certainly want a bigger number on the dynos, sometimes other things come into play performance-wise. Tim, I hope you don't mind, but I'm gonna use Sunnie's numbers as an example. You're putting down close to ten more hp, and over 15 more lb. ft. than my last dyno in Nov. '06. But Sunnie's "personal" best 1/4 mile you just posted is 13.23 @ 107.24, while my 'vert ran 12.99 @105.5 in February. Your higher trap speed indicates the hp advantage. Could it be all the coats of wax, shiny polished bits, stereo amps or the searing yellow paint costing you those tenths? (My theory remains it's the color, of course. :edward: )

Who knows? Of course different dynos on different days can vary wildly, but some cars are built stouter than others too like Nic said. I was also told that A4's dyno lower anyway, but adding a torque converter can muddle things additionally. I think a dyno only tells you part of the story, things like curb weight, gearing, tire sizes and compounds, weather conditions and elevation, and driver's ability to get the car to launch and cut low 60 ft. times are huge variables in the real world "performance" of these cars.

People also talk about the meaning behind your peak numbers and the numbers you make 'under the curve'...but maybe Nic or someone with more knowledge than I (that only rules out about two of you) can explain all that.

Dean

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I'm hoping with some of the bolt ons that I have that he gets me a touch over 300. :xfinger:lol

I would hope so, I'm @ 338/351 with almost same mods!

Actually Tim, you have that Fast 90 on yours, I think that is worth at least 15 if I'm not mistaken. But we will see. But as Dean said, when it comes to the 1/4, that extra weight you have will hinder the car.

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Sure weight is a killer, however, since we were talking dyno #'s, I was just trying to give a reference point to Mark and Sean since Sunnie is not a heavily modded car, similar to theirs. Off the line, I feel I have a tenth or so in me with a more aggressive launch. 2.1's and 2.06's @ 60 ft ain't gettin it, but she sure is shiney!!! :lol

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If you took two similarly modified vettes, one a stalled auto and one a 6 spd, I would put money on the auto at the drag strip every time regardless of their dyno numbers. Autos with a good aftermarket stall converter will stay in the powerband longer and will launch smoother and harder than a 6 spd car every time. But their dyno numbers will fall short of the 6 spd. Not having to shift and keeping it in the powerband are two major things that contribute to an autos lower ET and unless you powershift the heck out of a 6 spd car it's not going to compare. I don't know a whole lot of people that are willing to powershift and subsequently kill many 6 spd transmissions out there. The same would go for a stock auto vs a stalled auto, an aftermarket converter changes everything.

A well setup auto is very easy to run into even the 10s without much effort and not worrying about missing a gear or making another mistake, etc. Heck it was over 4 years ago now that I setup my buddy with one of the earliest LS1 combos you can imagine. Stuff back then wasn't very advanced and a lot has changed since then. It consisted of a very small by today's standards thunder racing 220 cam, some old ported 5.7L heads with no milling, a 150 shot of nitrous, and a good auto with a yank converter and he was running mid 10s every single time he went to the track on a stock bottom end. It was literally a point and shoot car and all you had to do was a good burnout and flash the converter on the launch and hold on. For comparison that car only ever dyno'd 530 rwhp and came in at a raceweight of ~3700 lbs. A 6 spd car would have a hell of a time getting their ET to mimick that even once let alone consistantly.

I am not surprised at all. Nic is a tuning GOD!!!

Haha, thanks but I wouldn't go that far. :D

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If you took two similarly modified vettes, one a stalled auto and one a 6 spd, I would put money on the auto at the drag strip every time regardless of their dyno numbers. Autos with a good aftermarket stall converter will stay in the powerband longer and will launch smoother and harder than a 6 spd car every time. But their dyno numbers will fall short of the 6 spd. Not having to shift and keeping it in the powerband are two major things that contribute to an autos lower ET and unless you powershift the heck out of a 6 spd car it's not going to compare. I don't know a whole lot of people that are willing to powershift and subsequently kill many 6 spd transmissions out there. The same would go for a stock auto vs a stalled auto, an aftermarket converter changes everything.

A well setup auto is very easy to run into even the 10s without much effort and not worrying about missing a gear or making another mistake, etc. Heck it was over 4 years ago now that I setup my buddy with one of the earliest LS1 combos you can imagine. Stuff back then wasn't very advanced and a lot has changed since then. It consisted of a very small by today's standards thunder racing 220 cam, some old ported 5.7L heads with no milling, a 150 shot of nitrous, and a good auto with a yank converter and he was running mid 10s every single time he went to the track on a stock bottom end. It was literally a point and shoot car and all you had to do was a good burnout and flash the converter on the launch and hold on. For comparison that car only ever dyno'd 530 rwhp and came in at a raceweight of ~3700 lbs. A 6 spd car would have a hell of a time getting their ET to mimick that even once let alone consistantly.

Did you write this knowing that you were going to see my car today or what?

Hear that boys, you're all in trouble now, lol. We'll see how the next drag day turns out but I'm hoping for more Z's in the rear view this time (except maybe R&E)

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Guest Z01Mike

Dyno's are a good baseline! But at the track recently i took a friends 07 Z06 down the track over 5 tenths fster than him!

He ran my 03 Z06 and did a 12.7 in the 1/4 and then i ran it and did a 12.19 in the same hour!i would love to find an auto with similar power as mine and good track prep i would bet my 6 speed would win 7 out of ten if they both were even on hp!

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Just got a nice email from another customer of mine Glenn Lane. He has an 06 C6 A6 car that I tuned a while ago now and he finally got some drag radials for it right before christmas. This car has full exhaust and maybe a CAI, but that's it. He just went 12.033 at 118.43 at firebird on Dec 22nd. :rockon2:

IMG_3901.jpg

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Robert and Elizabeth

Sorry if I sound dumb here, but what is a CAI? I probably have heard of it, but right now it eludes me.

E~

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Sorry if I sound dumb here, but what is a CAI? I probably have heard of it, but right now it eludes me.

E~

Cold Air Induction system

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Robert and Elizabeth
Sorry if I sound dumb here, but what is a CAI? I probably have heard of it, but right now it eludes me.

E~

Cold Air Induction system

Ahhhh, thank you Mikey, just never heard it put that way.

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