Grayeagle Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Went out after the rain (bout dark) ..was gonna run to the store for Coke an such.Opened the Vette up, noted 'burnt 'lectrons' smell, and passenger seat was full forward.'Interestin' says I.Opened passenger door,... burnt smell stronger ..saw a wiff of what was that?Smoke?Quick like a bunny, grabbed seat control, ..only way it worked was UP ..everything else no joy.Grabbed flashlight, owners manual, tracked down seat control breaker (ya ..it uses a circuit breaker thank YOU GM!!)#36, big silver metallic lookin thing on the passenger toe board fuse panel.Pulled it out (just to be sure) ....seat motor still pretty HOT for sure.. ..but at least its not tryin to push the seat into the engine compartment anymore.Now ..cause of problem ..thinkin carpet may have gotten damp from a leak into the area under the seat. If motor is still HOT in 5 mins ..I am gonna pull alla connectors loose under the seat.-wonder if there's a way to disconnect the motor from the seat track to move the seat back-hmm.Next step is to fix it.*that's* gonna be fun.I'm thinkin ..er .. Mike (AZPS) ??You guys wanna take a crack at it?(prolly replace wire harness to seat and/or wiring on seat frame itself)Means leavin the car there for coupla days I know ....but I cant see rippin it apart in the driveway with no tools, bits an peices, etc. to repair it.-Frank (Heck I dont even have a sodier(tm Chad) gun anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 Well .. motor is a small bit cooler to the touch under the seat.Yanno ..I tried like heck to undo the connector to it under the seat ....SHEESSHH!! .. what the HECK was GM thinkin when they did those connectors!It's got lil blue tabs on each side (got those out) and then more lil stick-thru tabs here an there all over that lil beast.Have to be an Elf or Halfling to get two hands under there to work.I swear ima dyke all the wires an just put my *OWN* connector there that you can actually take apart.er .. course ..Ima hafta go to an electrical supply store an get some .. anna sodier gun ..an some sodier ..an wires ..an tape ..NM.Carry on.Will bring it to Mike -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Frank,4 - 12mm nuts and you can lift the seat up to undo the connector, then the whole seat just slips right out the door... It's not that hard, and you can take just the seat frame to AZPS for R&R... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 cool Dawg .. I think I have a 12mm socket, extension, and ratchet even.Guessin they'd be under some kinda plugs underneath the car ....a 'tomorrow when it's light outside again' job OMG .. am I gonna get my *hands* dirty!!??-shudders--Frank -evil grin- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstrutt Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Good luck with it Frank. That could have been disaster but saved by a Coke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Frank, the nuts are inside.Since the seat is run forward, look behind the backrest on the floor, you can see the 2 rear mounts. The fronts are going to be a little harder with the seat run forward. Remove the two black plastic gards on each front corner, they pop off with the little round plug, pop it out first with a flat blade, under them are the front two nuts.I agree with John, good thing you were thirsty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P51tj Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Frank, the nuts are inside.Since the seat is run forward, look behind the backrest on the floor, you can see the 2 rear mounts. The fronts are going to be a little harder with the seat run forward. Remove the two black plastic gards on each front corner, they pop off with the little round plug, pop it out first with a flat blade, under them are the front two nuts.I agree with John, good thing you were thirsty. Seat removal is easy and no need to go under car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Seat removal is easy and no need to go under car. had mine out before to access the lateral accelerometer.You may even be able to just order a motor and replace that easily as well. But definitely run a meter across the wires first to make sure there is no short. Could be the switches on the side of the seat that are the issue to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 'could have been a disaster' ..yes. I am *so* glad GM put circuit breakers in.The seat motor still works ..it was tryin to push the seat forward constantly ..hence the case was HOT (did I mention it was HOT? Burny Finger HOT) ..since it was 'stalled' there.The case was cooled off this morning, and the car started fine I'll have to see if I can reach my nuts when my seat is ..er .. nevermind.-Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Frank, the nuts are inside.I keep wondering if he's talking about the driver or the seat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 I know where most of my nuts are.I've seen a lot of nuts in cars and airplanes and shopping malls Just re-reading this thread had me laughin -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Ok.Went out this mornin.. everything is dried out, popped the big silver circuit breaker back in, put everything back together,(just to 'see' if it would work.. try out that natural self-healing feature built into everything(..and ran the seat full back and down just fine.It didn't try to move by itself, no intermittent clicking, and best of all ..no smoke no HOT Burny So I yanked out the circuit breaker and ima leave the seat full back till I get the window adjusted where I want it, so it wont drip on the seat controls no mo.-Frank (that will be a day project for sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstrutt Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 You got lucky Frank. Did you have to put wooden blocks on the brake and gas pedals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Oh, I did not see the part about water leaking into that area. Well that explains a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayeagle Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Umm .. John? (way up in Canada where it's cold John)I am 6'2" ..I have the seat alla way back an down and I'm comfy with that I can wear my hat an everything -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstrutt Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I'm 5-8 and keep mine about 3/4 back, low as it goes and tilted back 3/4. I look like a dork in a hat. Come to think of it I look like a dork without a hat. Glad everything worked out for you. Nothing worse then the smell of rubber burning and the sound of....never mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I'm 6'3"...seat all the way back, all the way down, wheel telescoped all the way out and wheel tilted all the way up to get in and out...other than that..real comfy.I tried some C4's when I was looking...no go...not enough room in the foot well for my size 14/15's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstrutt Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I find that on the C4 I am consistently hitting my right knee on the dadh when getting in. Nickname "Wounded Knee" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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