ChadC Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 IM trying to find a local source for High Output Alternators. The Corvette forum pointed me to this sitehttp://www.alternatorparts.combut the mixture of poor information on the website, no responce to email, no answner to calls ,a circa 1980 Vm machine, and using an AOL email account makes me nervious to spend 350.00 plus shipping to a faceless, nameless, website.I know the Alternator has to interface with the PCM, but I don t know if that is tough.thxcAhd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steve Mulvey Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 :D Loper's Speed Shop has that sort of thing. Or you could try the SoCal Speed shop... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AZ Power & Sound Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Just remember to buy a product with a warranty! Alternators are extremely unreliable and ive found that 1 in 5 are bad out of the box for remans, so theres a good chance you might have to go through a couple to get a good one... make sure it has a good warranty so you have someone to yell at if it fails in the future... this is why we wont sell the aftermarket alternators and rely strictly on checker or GM... that way I can have a new one same day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Just remember to buy a product with a warranty! Alternators are extremely unreliable and ive found that 1 in 5 are bad out of the box for remans, so theres a good chance you might have to go through a couple to get a good one... make sure it has a good warranty so you have someone to yell at if it fails in the future... this is why we wont sell the aftermarket alternators and rely strictly on checker or GM... that way I can have a new one same day!i'm with you - back in the late 80s i had my nova go through 7 alternators in less than a week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 have you found anything yet???? i'm thinking i want a new one too - my car's funny like that above 2000 RPM, my volts drop to 12.0x or less - but when below 2000 RPM, it's 13.x - 14.4 volts!!!! that sounds like something is bad inside the alternator to me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crzy4vettes Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 If you are looking for a last resort of repairing an alt. when you can not get Checker or Auto Zone remanufactured Life Time warranty then this is my story.I also went through several alt. from Checker for a T.A. I was driving. I was ask to wait for two weeks for a high output alt. for a Camaro then decided to try a little shop in Glendale. This was in 1989 and since then I have taken several alt., most recently an alt. from a 1984 BMW this past year. They have repaired them all with a 90 day warranty and I have had no problems to date. They have also been quite a bit less than even reman. ones. This would be Nasa Electronics approx. two blocks West of 59th Ave. on Glendale Ave. North side of the road. I have no contacts to give you but they have always been very honest the 5 -6 encounters I have had with them. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 If you are looking for a last resort of repairing an alt. when you can not get Checker or Auto Zone remanufactured Life Time warranty then this is my story.I also went through several alt. from Checker for a T.A. I was driving. I was ask to wait for two weeks for a high output alt. for a Camaro then decided to try a little shop in Glendale. This was in 1989 and since then I have taken several alt., most recently an alt. from a 1984 BMW this past year. They have repaired them all with a 90 day warranty and I have had no problems to date. They have also been quite a bit less than even reman. ones. This would be Nasa Electronics approx. two blocks West of 59th Ave. on Glendale Ave. North side of the road. I have no contacts to give you but they have always been very honest the 5 -6 encounters I have had with them. Hope this helps. do you know what they replaced when they "rebuilt" it you can buy parts to replace brushes and other things for about $15 - this is what the last alternator BSeery rebuilt cost me! so it would be nice to know exactly what you are getting from Nasa - as installing the minimal parts kit takes about 10 minutes and a monkey could be trained to do it, heck, i even feel confident enough to do it myself (just need to know what parts constitute high output, and are those parts replaceable in kit form) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 have you found anything yet???? i'm thinking i want a new one too - my car's funny like that above 2000 RPM, my volts drop to 12.0x or less - but when below 2000 RPM, it's 13.x - 14.4 volts!!!! that sounds like something is bad inside the alternator to me!!!No chris, I havent.Either its a Reman from checker/auto zone for 150-200 or a Bling Chrome unit for 700.here is the place Crazy4vetts speaks of Nasa Automotive Electric Inc (623) 842-9453 6132 W Glendale Av Glendale they are open today till 5 pm. ill try and go to them todaychad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 well i went there and the guy was like "Sure whatever you want. Drop off the Alt to me in the morning and Ill have it ready in the afternoon."About 235.00Score! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kens06 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 have you found anything yet???? i'm thinking i want a new one too - my car's funny like that above 2000 RPM, my volts drop to 12.0x or less - but when below 2000 RPM, it's 13.x - 14.4 volts!!!! that sounds like something is bad inside the alternator to me!!!Chris,Where are you getting these readings?The DIC or a muliti-meter on the alternator output terminals??It sounds like the DIC is reading battery volts over 2K and alt output under!! I can't imagine the alt having a speed sw to cut output over 2K, 4K maybe?A speed sw would relieve stress on the voltage regulator!I know the A/C clutch drops out at 4K, so maybe ............... I guess I made this thread worse, Sorry :blush: KenDidn't mean to Hi-jack Mr. Chad!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steve Mulvey Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Chad er, I thought you wanted a new alternator... Alternators are really easy to repair I have done it a couple of times.. The only thing that ever goes bad are the Diodes and you can test them in about a second with a voltmeter. The diodes are pretty cheap as well... sorry man, I misunderstood the post, next time.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kens06 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Chad er, I thought you wanted a new alternator... Alternators are really easy to repair I have done it a couple of times.. The only thing that ever goes bad are the Diodes and you can test them in about a second with a voltmeter. The diodes are pretty cheap as well... sorry man, I misunderstood the post, next time..Steve, With C2's you are correct!Diode trio and voltage regulator!!Times have changed Sir!!Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steve Mulvey Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Chad er, I thought you wanted a new alternator... Alternators are really easy to repair I have done it a couple of times.. The only thing that ever goes bad are the Diodes and you can test them in about a second with a voltmeter. The diodes are pretty cheap as well... sorry man, I misunderstood the post, next time..Steve, With C2's you are correct!Diode trio and voltage regulator!!Times have changed Sir!!Ken How has it changed? I cannot believe that there are no diodes .. how does it chop AC to DC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kens06 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Steve, With C2's you are correct!Diode trio and voltage regulator!!Times have changed Sir!!Ken How has it changed? I cannot believe that there are no diodes .. how does it chop AC to DC?The basic function of the device is the same! However, just like no throttle cables to the gasoline regulation devise, everything is computer monitored and controlled!!Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steve Mulvey Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 if it stops working it is diodes, if it is drifting then it is the volts regulator... all this stuff works as in 1960.... I have driven electronic throttle cars at 200 mph, it is the same principle as the cable... it stops working and you replace parts... By the way I do not like the virtual throttle in a road car nor do I understand its purpose except to add complexity... in the race cars it was used to limit throttle as in traction control, something unneccessary except at standing starts... in a road car I see no use for it at all except to be annoying... road cars have too high a power to weight ratio to need it... and I know you can modify them but GM , Ford et al do not sell modded cars... knowing how to drive eliminates the need for trac control, yaw control, abs etc... and they wreck your lap times...so there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kens06 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Have another Molson, Bro!!Michael Schumacher may not be as 'pure' a driver as Fangio, but they both used the tools they were given to the ultimate limit!!Welcome to the 21st century!!Computer control is here, and will stay!!So there!!Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted January 16, 2007 Author Share Posted January 16, 2007 hmmmm KAY... back on topic.the factory unit is a 110amp PCM controled device.Im looking for a 170amp unit that will not damage the PCM. Most alts are One wire units that will meeter the battery, while the vette uses the PCM to meeter the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now