Phill's Vette Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I currently have a worn out 3 core in my 82 - automatic with a/c. needs immediat replacement; is there a 4 core available that's not extreeeemly high priced and will a 4 core fit in my application?? Also, I only know of Ramsey's Rad locally, anyother local rad retail to buy one rather a 3 or 4 core?Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloryde Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I use Ramseys and they can get almost any type of radiator. The owners name is Joe and he's a sharp guy who knows his stuff. I bet he can help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Well I put a standard 4 core/row in mine and it doesn't fit correctly even though the chart said it would. The issue is the top mounting brackets aren't long enough to properly secure the radiator in my 82.I ended up with a 3 core that works just fine. I also went to a high flow pump and stat to give me a bit more flow and seems to work out great. You might want to change the rad cap as well. Mine is a 16lb cap which is just over stock spec. I wouldn't go to high and over pressurize the rad. One misconseption on caps is that the higher the cap rating (pounds) the better it cools. In reality, the higher cap pressure only raises the boil over temp which is approx. 3* per lb over stock rating and will blow the rad apart if you exceed the rad rating which is normally around 20ish +/- a couple pounds on a stock rad. Good luck and be cooool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill's Vette Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Thanks Guys! I will go to Ramsey's today and get their 3 core ($199.00) good price from what I've seen. I will also get a 16lb cap. Almost didn't make it into Chandler this morning with tthe over heating problem so tonight it will be done. QUESTION: The radiator is very gunked up and krusty inside so I know its part of the problem; I also noticed the the electric fan does not function - I believe it should kick on at 195 degrees, I will check the motor tonight while everything is out. If the motor is good, how do I check the relay and senser? I will also check that all wiring and connections are good. All the housing and air deflectors seem to be in their respective place.Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Phil, I would flush that system out real good before installing the new rad. It sounds like its been in there a while. How old is the heater core...do you happen to know? BTW: They are a PITA to change on a C3.Your electric fan on an 82 is not computer driven like the C4 and I'm sure the C5s as well. There is a fan temp switch on the passenger side of the block by the knock sensor, if stock it should have a one blade connector. I changed mine to the newer sytle C4 connector. The stock temp spec for the fan switch is ON @238* and OFF @200*. To me, that's just way too HOT and I would panic if my temp went that high on a C3.I installed a newer style fan switch which comes ON @ 200* and OFF @ 185* since my stat is a 185* anyway. In the garage when I was breaking in the cam at anywhere from 1800 - 2600RPM for 23 minutes the temp never went over 190* with no air flow, so I guess its working ok. Hope this helps out and good luck.Oh yeah, one more note. Make sure that ALL your air dam foam that goes all around the rad and shroud in front is intact all the way down the side of the rad. If not, the motor will run hot. The dam is there to funnel the air through the rad instead of letting the air go around the shroud and not cool things down. A C3 is a bottom feeder for air flow that's why they have the air valance behind the grill to divert air up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill's Vette Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 Phil, I would flush that system out real good before installing the new rad. It sounds like its been in there a while. How old is the heater core...do you happen to know? BTW: They are a PITA to change on a C3.Your electric fan on an 82 is not computer driven like the C4 and I'm sure the C5s as well. There is a fan temp switch on the passenger side of the block by the knock sensor, if stock it should have a one blade connector. I changed mine to the newer sytle C4 connector. The stock temp spec for the fan switch is ON @238* and OFF @200*. To me, that's just way too HOT and I would panic if my temp went that high on a C3.I installed a newer style fan switch which comes ON @ 200* and OFF @ 185* since my stat is a 185* anyway. In the garage when I was breaking in the cam at anywhere from 1800 - 2600RPM for 23 minutes the temp never went over 190* with no air flow, so I guess its working ok. Hope this helps out and good luck.Oh yeah, one more note. Make sure that ALL your air dam foam that goes all around the rad and shroud in front is intact all the way down the side of the rad. If not, the motor will run hot. The dam is there to funnel the air through the rad instead of letting the air go around the shroud and not cool things down. A C3 is a bottom feeder for air flow that's why they have the air valance behind the grill to divert air up.Tom, Not sure the age of the heater core but tried to turn the heater on this morning to help water circulate and only cool air was blowing?? I will do a good flush of the system before I remove the old radiator - thanks; I have a new 195 degree heavy duty t-stat and 16lb cap and will also check the electric fan while I'm there. If I am missing any or the air dam foam or need to replace any rubber mounts, where can I find these locally? I have the original shop manual for an 82, found on eBay and the regular Haynes & Chiltons manuals and will now get started; I will do an update later.Thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Phil, not sure exactly on where you can find both the items you may need localy. However, as much as I don't like doing business with them, sometimes they have the things I need in a hurry...CnV off of McClintok and the 202. They do sell the foam at Eckler's, Mid America and Corvette Central if you want to order it.On the heater blowing cold air, you may have another issue with the water diverter valve by the firewall on the pass fender not working correctly. You might want to do a real close inspection of that whole system. How long have you had the car or did you just get it?If you really get stuck let me know and I'll try and give you a hand. Since I don't start another contract until the 2nd, I have time...but I've been working my a$$ off on my car lately, lots and lots of sanding, spraying surfacer, sanding etc... We could do a trade, I help you, you sand my car...LOL! J/K. I've been blocking my hood and it's done and ready for primer only to block it again and the right side of the car is kind of close now. I'm hoping to start priming by at least next Monday or Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I was going to add my here, but Tom is doing a pretty good job by himself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill's Vette Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 Phil, I would flush that system out real good before installing the new rad. It sounds like its been in there a while. How old is the heater core...do you happen to know? BTW: They are a PITA to change on a C3.Your electric fan on an 82 is not computer driven like the C4 and I'm sure the C5s as well. There is a fan temp switch on the passenger side of the block by the knock sensor, if stock it should have a one blade connector. I changed mine to the newer sytle C4 connector. The stock temp spec for the fan switch is ON @238* and OFF @200*. To me, that's just way too HOT and I would panic if my temp went that high on a C3.I installed a newer style fan switch which comes ON @ 200* and OFF @ 185* since my stat is a 185* anyway. In the garage when I was breaking in the cam at anywhere from 1800 - 2600RPM for 23 minutes the temp never went over 190* with no air flow, so I guess its working ok. Hope this helps out and good luck.Oh yeah, one more note. Make sure that ALL your air dam foam that goes all around the rad and shroud in front is intact all the way down the side of the rad. If not, the motor will run hot. The dam is there to funnel the air through the rad instead of letting the air go around the shroud and not cool things down. A C3 is a bottom feeder for air flow that's why they have the air valance behind the grill to divert air up.Tom, Not sure the age of the heater core but tried to turn the heater on this morning to help water circulate and only cool air was blowing?? I will do a good flush of the system before I remove the old radiator - thanks; I have a new 195 degree heavy duty t-stat and 16lb cap and will also check the electric fan while I'm there. If I am missing any or the air dam foam or need to replace any rubber mounts, where can I find these locally? I have the original shop manual for an 82, found on eBay and the regular Haynes & Chiltons manuals and will now get started; I will do an update later.Thanks for your help!Tom, Worked well into Thursday early morning replacing my 3 core with a Ramsey's 3 core - nice people there. Also changed t-stat and cap, flushed system before I started and filled with a 40/60 mixture of H20 and coolant. Now, normal running temp according the ambiguous temp gauge is apprx. 200 - 210; running AC I get 210 - 230 running/idle. This is much better than before but still seems warm to me Oh yeah, the electric fan motor is in good shape but I believe the sensor switch is bad. I will bypass the switch today and see how running/idle temp does. What is the ON temp on the 84 switch? is it a plug and play or did you need to do any modification to make it work in your 82? I have owned the car for about 2 weeks now, no idea on the age of the heater core. Looks like Chevrolet built the damm car around the core I will do a complete inspection and read up on this tonight and let you know. Thanks for the help offer! hey I'm a good sander but my specialty is watching others and learning from them LOL I'll let you know and thank you again! Is the Vette your restoring the same one in your picture? I can hardly wait to see this brand new one your building!! All air dam foam and housing was in good shape, actually looks new. Previouse owner must have spent a lot of time and money on this car before I bought it. I was missing the rignt upper rad rubber mount; I rigged a temporary fix and ordered replacement form Ecklers.Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Phil, glad to hear that your making progress and it looks like you may be close to getting it corrected. The fan switch mod is a no brainer, just change out the pig tail harness with your old one, install newer style switch in block and connect it. pretty easy stuff and will take 30 minutes or so to do. Just remember that when you pull the old switch out, coolant will come flowing out...fast. Get ready for that ahead of time.It still seems a bit on the warm side though with the AC on. It might be because of the switch being a high temp switch before it cuts on. The other thing that may help since I would think it may be a total sytem flow issue is to go to a higher flow pump, but if you do that, you have to change the stat again to a high flow stat also. BTW, what temp stat did you put in it? Remember not to go too cold like a 160 stat. If you do, you will have big issues with the ecm. The motor either won't go into closed loop or won't stay in closed loop if you go that cold and the car will run like crap. Change out the switch and see how it goes from there. You may be fine with the change. If not, I would think about a different pump. That's why the air dam foam is so important on a C3 to guide the air across the rad. Good job so far and I bet you have learned a lot so far huh.Your right...The car was built around the damn core...LOL! It is truely a PITA to replace and I don't want to do mine again, ever. I will pay someone to do it next time.Yep, the car in the pic is the same one. It's getting a completely new paint job and a complete interior change. the motor is new also. After this project, it's on to a 02 or 03 Z06. I've been looking around to see what's out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSeery Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 The heater core is part 3 of the car's assembly.Frame, cockpit, heater core, ducting, blower motor, etc ...200-210 at idle is a bit high, but you do have a 195 temp thermostat. So, you really are about a cool as you will get.I really recommend a 180 thermostat, don't go to a 160 - you will have emission problems.Get the electric fan to work when it hits either 195 or when the a/c is on. Make sure all the foam seals are in place. Make sure the fan clutch is good . On my 1980 I ran a stock 3 row with a set of dual Spal electric fans and a 180 t-stat. I rarely ever saw over 200 and during the worst of summer with the a/c running it would only climb to 210 while sitting. Even when I had the stock fan on there it would keep to the 200-210 range, but made a lot more noise and killed around 20+ HP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Unfortunately the 82 puter is supposed to go into closed (or is it open) loop only at 190 degrees, so going colder on the thermostat will affect it during the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill's Vette Posted October 1, 2006 Author Share Posted October 1, 2006 I bipassed the fan switch and the fan now works - bad switch. For now I will leave it always on until I find the correct switch. Another problem - now the water pump is leaking from the weep hole. I am taking Buc's advice and have ordered a hi flow replacement with a hi flow 180 degree state. QUESTION: Should I replace the fan clutch while everything is tore up? Is there anything esle I may want to do while there I don't know how old it and and seems to be easy to spin several times while not running- is this indicative of a bad clutch? I have spent a lot of time hunting and seeking out the squeeks and rattles throughout the vette; would like to dip the entire car in wd40... It looks and sounds like this is normal for Vettes especially 20+ year old Vettes??This car had A LOT of work done it by the previous owner, they spent a lot of time and money on stock restoration and I am picking up where they left off - time and money! Unlike any other car I've owned, this car seems to own ME; after all it is my only halo Thanks for the help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 and she looks very very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crzy4vettes Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Doit right the first time and you will always be happy! :D The fan should not spin easy. You have already replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, and I suspect the radiator cap? Now the darn water pump. Replace it, replace the fan clutch, belts and think seriously about the heater hoses. May your coolant issues be history!!! Oh, how are you with a wrench? This is all not to hard except for those heater hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill's Vette Posted October 1, 2006 Author Share Posted October 1, 2006 Doit right the first time and you will always be happy! :D The fan should not spin easy. You have already replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, and I suspect the radiator cap? Now the darn water pump. Replace it, replace the fan clutch, belts and think seriously about the heater hoses. May your coolant issues be history!!! Oh, how are you with a wrench? This is all not to hard except for those heater hoses. Advice taken! Will replace the can cluch, better quality fan, belts and heater hoses. Also have a problem with the heater blowing cold so I'll be there at the same time. Okay with a wrench, better with a nerver dieing, no fear, jump right in with both eyes open attitude. I love this car so working on it and learning from it is a true pleasure! Remind me of these words when I get to the heater core.... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccaneer Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 It sounds like you have a grip on things Phill and she should be running ok when your done. After about 25 years, things tend to wear out a bit. Welcome to the world of an 82 C3. Post your results, I'm curious now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donbecker Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Just my 2 cents...get the foam from Dr Rebuild. Has the exact stuff to fit. Remember too that these cars were supposed to run on the high side. 195 thermostat is stock (I think), I don't think that changing that will help (never seen any proof of it). On my 76 I went with the Dewitts radiaor and dual 11" electric Spal fans. I'm not a big fan of the mech. fan. Electric is the way to go IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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