Painting Frc And Interior Trim

[TEXAZC6]

Anybody do this DIY style?

I want to paint the Fuel Rail covers and the interior trim pieces to match the body. I ordered the flexible primer, two cans of color and some clear, just need some tips from folks with more painting know how than me.

Cheers

[Eddie44]

Joe (Sloryde) will probably give you the advice if you promise to use his shop after they don't turn out the way you want them to. (just kidding)

I bought the expansion and windshield washer tanks done in gloss black. Since then I've considered doing the frc's and radiator support myself. I'm sure if you do some research on the CF you'll probably find several threads.

Good Luck!

[sloryde]

I can give you a little advice on this. First off, do not sand anything down. You will break through the outer layer of plastic and the paint job will look furry. I would clean it real good with dish soap and really hot water, not boiling but hot enough to be difficult to work with. Dry thoroughly and start over with new hot water and dish soap (we use dawn), but this time instead of a sponge use a grey scotch-brite pad. The reason you do this twice is to get the dressings out the first time (armour-all), the second time is to prepare for paint. Make sure to clean the water bucket between steps so you dont have cross contamination. Do not use any solvents to clean the plastic before you spray as the solvents will get in the pores of the plastic and ruin the paint job. I would handle the peices with rubber gloves so no skin oils get on them after paint prep. When spraying do the first coat super light almost dusted on transparent. Let dry completely between coats. As paint drys it releases solvents if you dont leave enough time between coats you will get (solvent pop), which is when the solvents are still releasing after youve applied the next coat and it pushes out through the paint (looks like fish eyes or dust). Also dont put any coat on too heavy except the last (if you need to) as that will cause solvent pop as well. One last thing use as little paint as poss. since thin paint wont crack or peel as easily (important when doing eng. comp. pieces) as the frc's expand with extreme eng. comp. heat and will crack a thick paint job. Hope this helps....Joe

[TEXAZC6]

I can give you a little advice on this. First off, do not sand anything down. You will break through the outer layer of plastic and the paint job will look furry. I would clean it real good with dish soap and really hot water, not boiling but hot enough to be difficult to work with. Dry thoroughly and start over with new hot water and dish soap (we use dawn), but this time instead of a sponge use a grey scotch-brite pad. The reason you do this twice is to get the dressings out the first time (armour-all), the second time is to prepare for paint. Make sure to clean the water bucket between steps so you dont have cross contamination. Do not use any solvents to clean the plastic before you spray as the solvents will get in the pores of the plastic and ruin the paint job. I would handle the peices with rubber gloves so no skin oils get on them after paint prep. When spraying do the first coat super light almost dusted on transparent. Let dry completely between coats. As paint drys it releases solvents if you dont leave enough time between coats you will get (solvent pop), which is when the solvents are still releasing after youve applied the next coat and it pushes out through the paint (looks like fish eyes or dust). Also dont put any coat on too heavy except the last (if you need to) as that will cause solvent pop as well. One last thing use as little paint as poss. since thin paint wont crack or peel as easily (important when doing eng. comp. pieces) as the frc's expand with extreme eng. comp. heat and will crack a thick paint job. Hope this helps....Joe

I got em all cleaned up, plan on priming and painting tomorrow then clear on Monday. I'll post pics if it turns out good or call you if it turns out not so good .

Thanks for the tips, I'm pretty sure they are going to turn out right, I'm more concerned with getting the Driver's side cover back on without screwing it up.

Anyone know what tool and how to depressurize the fuel system to take the line off instead? As a last resort, I'll cover it all with painter's tape and try and work it but not having that line there would be a heck of a lot easier.

Thanks,

[Togo]

I can give you a little advice on this. First off, do not sand anything down. You will break through the outer layer of plastic and the paint job will look furry. I would clean it real good with dish soap and really hot water, not boiling but hot enough to be difficult to work with. Dry thoroughly and start over with new hot water and dish soap (we use dawn), but this time instead of a sponge use a grey scotch-brite pad. The reason you do this twice is to get the dressings out the first time (armour-all), the second time is to prepare for paint. Make sure to clean the water bucket between steps so you dont have cross contamination. Do not use any solvents to clean the plastic before you spray as the solvents will get in the pores of the plastic and ruin the paint job. I would handle the peices with rubber gloves so no skin oils get on them after paint prep. When spraying do the first coat super light almost dusted on transparent. Let dry completely between coats. As paint drys it releases solvents if you dont leave enough time between coats you will get (solvent pop), which is when the solvents are still releasing after youve applied the next coat and it pushes out through the paint (looks like fish eyes or dust). Also dont put any coat on too heavy except the last (if you need to) as that will cause solvent pop as well. One last thing use as little paint as poss. since thin paint wont crack or peel as easily (important when doing eng. comp. pieces) as the frc's expand with extreme eng. comp. heat and will crack a thick paint job. Hope this helps....Joe

I got em all cleaned up, plan on priming and painting tomorrow then clear on Monday. I'll post pics if it turns out good or call you if it turns out not so good .

Thanks for the tips, I'm pretty sure they are going to turn out right, I'm more concerned with getting the Driver's side cover back on without screwing it up.

Anyone know what tool and how to depressurize the fuel system to take the line off instead? As a last resort, I'll cover it all with painter's tape and try and work it but not having that line there would be a heck of a lot easier.

Thanks,

post the pics either way - it'd be nice to see the results even if it doesn't work

[TEXAZC6]

post the pics either way - it'd be nice to see the results even if it doesn't work

[nort99]

Hey they look good! :D

[Bigfoot]

Wow, those came out really nice. Thanks for the photos....thinking of doing mine silver to match the car. This may just convince me to do so.

[P51tj]

Good job, they look nice!

[Loud Pedal]

I wouldn't change anything. They look very nice.

[TEXAZC6]

Wow, those came out really nice. Thanks for the photos....thinking of doing mine silver to match the car. This may just convince me to do so.

It wasn't really hard, and I think it turned out pretty good. If you do decide to get a shot, here are lessons learned to go along with Joe's advice. By the way, I followed his directions nearly to the T.

1. Follow prep work above

2. Find some way to hang the parts, I used some surveyor's string and my garage door. This lesson came about after a drop of primer fell off the spray can and required extensive sending to get it to go away.

3. Follow Joe's advice and spray very light coat giving about 10 to 15 minutes between applications.

4. Let primer and color dry overnight

5. Clearcoat is a pain in the ass. It is difficult to determine coverage unless it is too much then it's really easy to see what you have painted because there's big drops everywhere.

6. Wait a few months before you do it because the garage is really hot.

Hope this helps, Joe's advice was invaluable and I'm sure they would've turned out much worse without his good advice about prep work.

I'll update this with what I learned from trying to put them back on the car without screwing them up.

[TEXAZC6]

Here they are with clear and back on the car:

[P51tj]

Sweeeeett!!!

[Eddie44]

Very You convinced me that I can tackle mine when it cools off a little.

[MOTV8]

Very nice. Excellent in fact!

[anmracing2]

Those look awesome.... Great DYI.....

Andrew

[ChadC]

nice job!!

[Guest Sidewinder]