Togo Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 after installing my Dewitts radiator - i'm still running a little too hot for my tastes.(around 200-210 at cruising speeds)so i'd like a checklist on what to check and perhaps a procedure HOW to check it.first - before installing the radiator - i blew a bunch of crap out from inside the engine compartment out with compressed air through the condensor - i also ran water through the front after degreasing the condensor (not to say that it still isn't a little clogged)second - all my hoses are new with exception of the "return lines" from the radiator to both the water tank and whereever the other one goes.third - from what i recall, it has a 160 stat, and i am told the fans are programmed to come on at 182 (low) and 192 (high),what other things can i check to ensure it runs cooler?i did find that one of the fans was disconnected while i was under the car finishing up the radiator replacement over at chadsand Glenn - i don't even want o hear an i told you so - as i appear to be the only one having such issues after switching to a dewitts - so there's GOTTA be something else wrongmy thoughts - does anyone know how to test the fans and the relays for the fans?and does swapping out a condensor sound like a STUPID idea - as i don't think the cleaning did a whole heck of a lot of good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92ZR1Wannabe Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Make sure all the air is burped from the system. Also this may sound a tad crazy, however........ if you beat your head trying to figure out why its running so warm and can't get it under control, toss a 180 deg , or even 185 deg Tstat in and see how it runs.If your car is running that warm, that 160 deg tstat is wide open, allowing the water to blow right through the radiator WITHOUT much time to cool it. By upping the tstat to something close to the range it should be or is currently running the stat will actually meter the water , opening only when it hits temp. This will give the water more time to cool in the radiator. I know it sounds crazy , but ive seen my fair share of 5.0's have problems like this and it was nothing more then a stat.Anyway , if all other bases are covered , its just an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anmracing2 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I can't resist this one, have you checked the loose nut behind the wheel????? Seriously though, have you checked the sensors that kick the fans on. Maybe one is bad???? Or an air bubble in the bottom hose....Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sidewinder Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Chris, Is that a good running temp for that motor? might be, also if your worried about the fans, start it up cold and pop the hood, while running monitor the fans operation i.e. when the fan comes on look at the dic and see what the temp is. A/C off of course. You do have a center air deflector on the car right? the black part under the car that deflects air into the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Joe - i don't think there is a burping mechanism on the C5 - or at least not one that i can find.also - it could very well have a 180 stat in it - i'm just under the impression it had a 160 in it - i think mike installed at (AZP&S) so he might chime in to verify.Mark - the air "deflector" IS installed - it is a VERTICAL piece of rubber or whatever just behind the radiatorit might be a good running temp for the motor - i'm not sure how to tell - i saw markings on the heads however - so i think the motor is GAY - it came out of an H2 ***EDIT*** it has had multiple cycles of heating all the way up and cooling down, so i doubt there is any air in the system - i guess it's a possibility - but like i said, i don't see a bleeder on the car - maybe i'm missing it!?!?!?!OH and Andrew - there are no loose nuts - my NUTS are tight as can be one more thingi thought of - i recall on the C4 you can short a couple pins in the OBD plug and both fans should come on - is this possible to do on a C5 also? and if so, which pins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AZ Power & Sound Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Hey Chris, thats about as cool as its going to get here! Between the Iron block, and the fact that its a million degrees out, the car just cant get the engine any cooler! My car runs at 190-195 and thats with fans turned down, water wetter, and 170 tstat, and the GTOs we have been putting the EWPs on seem to run about 195-200 degrees during the day. The engine is built for 210-235 degree running temps so youre still well below average! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Hey Chris, thats about as cool as its going to get here! Between the Iron block, and the fact that its a million degrees out, the car just cant get the engine any cooler! My car runs at 190-195 and thats with fans turned down, water wetter, and 170 tstat, and the GTOs we have been putting the EWPs on seem to run about 195-200 degrees during the day. The engine is built for 210-235 degree running temps so youre still well below average! i guess that kinda makes sense - i'll look at burping the system one more time like mark said it could need one more - then if that doesn't work, i'll change the t-stat and make sure it's a 160* - as i'm not sure right nowand after that - i'll get the water wetter - as i know i'm running somewhere around 25% antifreeze.and then after that - ill just chalk it up to iron block and eleventy bazillion degrees outside! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie44 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Chris, my stock C5 motor runs at 200-210 this time of the year and that's on the stock 190 stat. Yours is fine at that temp. Mine will get to 225-230 in rush hour traffic. Now in the cooler months it runs 190-200 all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfoot Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 May be a dumb question...but why so worried about it running at 200-210...I thought that was perfectly normal for the C5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie44 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 May be a dumb question...but why so worried about it running at 200-210...I thought that was perfectly normal for the C5? Not dumb at all. Most people get all excited at temps over 200 but the C5 is designed to run at that or over. There is a school of thought that you will not do your engine any good by lowering the temps below the stock 190. I have trouble believing that but it is one school of thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92ZR1Wannabe Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 May be a dumb question...but why so worried about it running at 200-210...I thought that was perfectly normal for the C5?Not dumb at all. Most people get all excited at temps over 200 but the C5 is designed to run at that or over. There is a school of thought that you will not do your engine any good by lowering the temps below the stock 190. I have trouble believing that but it is one school of thought. The first time i was sitting at a stoplight and watched the gauged on my 92 crest 226 before the fans even kicked on I almost had a heart attack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 i have seen some pretty high temps on the 3 generations of vettes i have had so it worries me (i count L98 and LT1 C4's as 2 different generations!)i have seen temps as high as 230+ and all i have to say to that is SCREW THAT - boiling point is only 30 degrees more - and that's not a temp i EVER want to see!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F22trainer Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 i have seen some pretty high temps on the 3 generations of vettes i have had so it worries me (i count L98 and LT1 C4's as 2 different generations!)i have seen temps as high as 230+ and all i have to say to that is SCREW THAT - boiling point is only 30 degrees more - and that's not a temp i EVER want to see!!! I'm with you Chris...I saw mine heat up to 250º Sunday. I was going from one end of Desert Ridge to the other. I had shut the car off to go in to the theater to check the line for "Pirates..." and decided to do dinner at Bahama Breeze instead. Jumped back in the car - so it had been heat soaking for about 15 minutes - had to idle all the way to he west end (A/C on) and didn't notice it was so hot until I was backing into the parking space.She occaisionally gets up to 240º in traffic with the A/C on....still scares the crap out of me. I'm going to do something soon, and I think you may have a point regarding the condensor. Maybe 50% mix on anti-freeze? Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 i have seen some pretty high temps on the 3 generations of vettes i have had so it worries me (i count L98 and LT1 C4's as 2 different generations!)i have seen temps as high as 230+ and all i have to say to that is SCREW THAT - boiling point is only 30 degrees more - and that's not a temp i EVER want to see!!!I'm with you Chris...I saw mine heat up to 250º Sunday. I was going from one end of Desert Ridge to the other. I had shut the car off to go in to the theater to check the line for "Pirates..." and decided to do dinner at Bahama Breeze instead. Jumped back in the car - so it had been heat soaking for about 15 minutes - had to idle all the way to he west end (A/C on) and didn't notice it was so hot until I was backing into the parking space.She occaisionally gets up to 240º in traffic with the A/C on....still scares the crap out of me. I'm going to do something soon, and I think you may have a point regarding the condensor. Maybe 50% mix on anti-freeze? Michael it is rumored that the MORE antifreeze - the WORSE off it is.that is why most run 100% distilled water and an additive, such as water wetter, or royal purple's purple ice.i think maybe a 90/10 , 80/20 or MAX of 75/25 AND an additive is what would be best for the car - i don't know what my mix is, but i'm sure it's 75/25 or less - i'm going to get an additive tomorrow or friday and burp out again before adding - as i may be replacing the TStat if the burping doesn't work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knkayotte Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Chris, I don't think you'll get much better then what you are seeing now. Mine runs 198 to 205 driving from cottonwood to camp verde. In the winter it usually stays at 194 to 198. When I'm in phx I see the same temps you do. That's in a stock vette.What are you using for cooling fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 71airstrike Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 If you are conserned, go through the check list and confirm each one. Fluid mix? is this proper amountAir in the system?both fans truning on?blockage of the radator?proper t-stat? (id advise a 180 not a 160)Check for sealing gaps?If you car is running lean it wil run hot (denotation and extreme header temps are symptoms ...sound familar?). Advise getting a tune and confirming you have the proper A/F mix and timing.chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LT4ME Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Not that this is Apples to Apples, but last time I drove mine it averaged about 207*. Since it's become increasingly hellish outside since you swapped your Rad, I don't know that you're going to get it much cooler. Keep in mind, V8's need to run in or around the 200* range to burn all the fuel properly. Running them at 160-180* actually robs you of fuel effieciency and makes it pollute far worse, as well as fouling plugs and your cats much faster. Sure you might see HP gains on the dyno or at the track running that cold, but for daily driving, it hurts more than it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICULUKN Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 kingpin just added SPA fans to his set up. He dropped his temps by almost 20 degrees (off a RON DAVIS Radiator). They are about 200 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F22trainer Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 kingpin just added SPA fans to his set up. He dropped his temps by almost 20 degrees (off a RON DAVIS Radiator). They are about 200 bucks. that's certainly better than the $400 "alternative"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chad@xtreme Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Hey, I hate to disappoint you but the Spal fans are $175 each and it is recommended that you use the 97-98 fan shroud and that is another +/-$100. So you are into the fan setup for $450. This does not include wiring and installation. Just an FYI.Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F22trainer Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Hey, I hate to disappoint you but the Spal fans are $175 each and it is recommended that you use the 97-98 fan shroud and that is another +/-$100. So you are into the fan setup for $450. This does not include wiring and installation. Just an FYI.Chad ...if I could get a set up where I knew that my temps would not go above 235º, maybe even 240º, when I get stuck in traffic, with the A/C on - I would have a real peace of mind and consider it would be money well spent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 Hey, I hate to disappoint you but the Spal fans are $175 each and it is recommended that you use the 97-98 fan shroud and that is another +/-$100. So you are into the fan setup for $450. This does not include wiring and installation. Just an FYI.Chad fan shroud is cracked and "putty'd" up so it looks OK, but i'd rather replace itis the wiring "plug and play" or will i need to modify anything?just getting ideas before spending any more money.the car is pinging like a mother too - even if the temps are right below 200 - i may have to take her back in to have the tune looked at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICULUKN Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 stop putting in 87 octane.. and it wont ping.... J/K.///The heat will do bad things to engines... You will have to up your octane or retard timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Togo Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 stop putting in 87 octane.. and it wont ping.... J/K.///The heat will do bad things to engines... You will have to up your octane or retard timing. did you just call me a retard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 71airstrike Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Did you just call me a retard? yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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