SLAMMER Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Well, i got the duct problem solved and now on to the new placement of the transmission oil cooler. There is enough room to house it where the fog light body was. Came out real easy not scoring around the outer edge as I have read in a earlier post. I should be able to reinstall fog light in the future if this planed modification is less than effective. Bought some gal metal lath and painted it red and black to see what looks better. I now feel black is best. I will silicone the screens in place, right now there held in place by duct tape at the two ends. The lip above has two holes and I will cut and shape a piece of solid popular and thru bolt and silicone the back to the inner bumper wall for extra mounting. This will hold the oil cooler with two wood screws. at the bottom I will support with a 3" long bolt and screw that into one of the 3 lower mounting holes use to mount the factory light. use a nyloc nut and back that down against the lower flange of the tranny cooler. That should hold it in place. My plan is to run a braided line for cooler #1 (passenger) to #2 drivers side and return back to the radiator with another length of braided hose. I'm conserned about venting the front area once the inner fender panel get put back in place. I think for now it will escape inwards toward the radiator and engine compartment. Not sure if I need to put a 3" or 4" round eve vent in the fender skirting to vent more efficiently. I will give it a run at the track before I install a specific exhaust vent. I'll post more pictures of mounting the cooler later when the screen sets up more. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve@LPM Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 You forgot to re-install your rotor........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anmracing2 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 You forgot to re-install your rotor........... Gotta get rid of the dead weight..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anmracing2 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Well, i got the duct problem solved and now on to the new placement of the transmission oil cooler. There is enough room to house it where the fog light body was. Came out real easy not scoring around the outer edge as I have read in a earlier post. I should be able to reinstall fog light in the future if this planed modification is less than effective. Bought some gal metal lath and painted it red and black to see what looks better. I now feel black is best. I will silicone the screens in place, right now there held in place by duct tape at the two ends. The lip above has two holes and I will cut and shape a piece of solid popular and thru bolt and silicone the back to the inner bumper wall for extra mounting. This will hold the oil cooler with two wood screws. at the bottom I will support with a 3" long bolt and screw that into one of the 3 lower mounting holes use to mount the factory light. use a nyloc nut and back that down against the lower flange of the tranny cooler. That should hold it in place. My plan is to run a braided line for cooler #1 (passenger) to #2 drivers side and return back to the radiator with another length of braided hose. I'm conserned about venting the front area once the inner fender panel get put back in place. I think for now it will escape inwards toward the radiator and engine compartment. Not sure if I need to put a 3" or 4" round eve vent in the fender skirting to vent more efficiently. I will give it a run at the track before I install a specific exhaust vent. I'll post more pictures of mounting the cooler later when the screen sets up more. SLAMMER Looks awesome! Your doin' a fantasitic job!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blk n Blu Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 You forgot to re-install your rotor........... He dosen't have them yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shockwave Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Wow great job. Question on the brake ducts, is that a kit or did you make it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Wow great job. Question on the brake ducts, is that a kit or did you make it? It is a kit from LG motor-sports. If you can find the orange silicone flexible vent tube you can make one up. It's some how stiff walled yet able to accordion down to compensate for the wheel turning in. This shortens up the length of the flexible duct. You will need to turn each wheel assemble out to the max in order to cut the proper length of hose. You'll have to add a collar to the plastic arm to attach the flex duct hose to. you can figure out how to mount the end of the hose to the spindle so it turns with the rotor. you can make a mount using the top two hub assembly bolts to mount it from the back side. Thus eliminating hub removal. I saw one on a C5 photo from where the guy was changing his ball joint. So yea you can do it. However it was just easier to order the kit on line. kinda pricy though, IMO. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blurr Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Like the pic of the front with the black tire booger marks, when you see those tells me you're on someones a** who has R compound tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Like the pic of the front with the black tire booger marks, when you see those tells me you're on someones a** who has R compound tires. YES, I have been seeing a lot more of the black boogers. I even got a new chip in the windshield coming into the carousel running right behind the porsche with the Ls7 motor. I had better brakes than he did and could close 7-8 car lengths coming off the main straight. However he can pass me rather Quickly I must admit on the middle of the drag strip section. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 A little more progress in the fog lights to transmission vents project. I have discovered that certain steps should be completed before putting on the screens. #1 is with the screens not yet installed it is MUCH easier to install the two SS screws through the upper fog light support into the wood backer blocking. The passenger side was much easier. Lesson learned. #2 Wipe off any excess silicone on grill face when wet rather than removing after it had dried. My thinking on that was I didn't want to smear silicone all over the grills so I would just cut and pull it off later. Again lesson learned. #3 Below was the low tec method of holding the center of the grill firmly against the inner bumper while silicone dries. NOW THE HIGH TEC SIMPLE WAY. Yes, that is an old xmas paper roll. It is easily adjustable for lengths up to 3 feet. This worked out just fine as the center of the screen was already bent from the roll it came off of. I just flatten it out a bit and held it in place. However the center section didn't want to fit tightly against the back side of the bumper so the Xmas paper roller came in very handy. Much easier that all those screwdrivers and duct tape. So here are the finished screens in place with mounting blocks installed ready to hang the two coolers. The finished look up front. It will look better once the rear skirting is reinstalled. You won't be able to see into the compartment. Plus you'll have the cooler behind the screened opening. More pictures to fallow as coolers and lines get installed. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 I disconnected cooler lines and drained cooler. Cut corner off of foam bumper backer to clear new cooler install. This is a rough in and I still need to get some 1" x 3/4" thick black weather strip self adhesive tape. I need to apply below the fog light opening on the inside that will prevent any air flow from going around cooler. I used a shelf clip that i strengthen out and put the peg through one of the cooler holes and was able to use one of the lower mounting holes to screw and secure lower portion of cooler. This is the finished look with the cooler installed. I still need to mount drivers side and cut and install new SS braided lines. Refill trany oil and add 1 additional quart to compensate for 2nd cooler and 8 feet of additional 3/8" line. Start car warm up to temp and do transmission oil check procedure. See my new post and pictures on how to install ends on stainless steel braided lines. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 while not a pro,I offer this suggestion. Air is like water. iit will go in and thru that cooler, but it needs a place to exit. Otherwise it will create a positive pressure in that chamber, and decrese air flow. if it were me. i would take the effort to vaccume mold an ABS sheet around the cooler, and direct the 'exhaust' into the wheel well. It will prevent water from gaining entry into that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 THANKS CHAD, I have addressed the venting in an earlier posting and agree with you about the flow of air being like water I do believe for now that the opening toward the inward motor side will be adequate at first to see if the system works and I can always come back later and add a specific exhaust vent. I was thinking about a 3 or 4 inch round eve vent that is screened placing it in the inner fender well. Directly inline and behind the cooler. Thus causing a vacuum effect of the air movement. I like the molded idea but I would be better off just using a block of foam and carving the shape and then applying cloth and resin to make a one off enclosure. I think this would be a lot cheeper than having a company make up a mold and running just two of the housings. About the water entry. I gave this some though and only during the cars bath will it get wet. I'm of the belief that the car is made of sugar and will indeed melt in the rain! Good points though. SLAMMER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FNBADAZ06 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Excellent thread SLAMMER !!!! Many great ideas Look great as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadC Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 actually using ABS and forming a mold is eaiser than you think. its would be a Good DIY project. but since you have addressed my question somewhere else, dont mind me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMMER Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 I have put the two coolers and lines in now and added 1 additional qt. of trany fluid to fill the new cooler and lines. I ran the engine to bring the trany temp above 100* and put it in drive, reverse and park a few times to get the fluid running all through the system. I felt the new coolers for warmth in temp so I knew fluid was flowing. I checked the new system for leaks and everything was dry. I check the fluid level and added a bit more fluid until excess trany fluid ran out from the inspection hole. The car has been street tested now and with the water temp at 198* the trany temps are 35*-40* below the water temp. The oil temp is running a few degrees above the water temp. Seems like I have lowered the trany temps considerably. I will know more next weekend at Inde motorsports park when I put some real heat in the transmission. The new 2 piece rotors are nice and save about 9.4 lbs. each. The rears are still fine and will get changed out to slotted when the drilled rotors show signs of wear. Slammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awlittle Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Very cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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