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c5 tranny mods


Eddyboy

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I am a NOOBIE here, so be gentle. I drive a 99 silver coupe (auto)which is dead stock. It is a nice car. Trouble is, I went and test drove the new C6, and now I hate my transmission. Seem's it is never in the power band, and there is a significant lag when I step into it. Having said all this, I am sure the trans is all right, but I feel like I'm drivin' a Buick Roadmaster, not a sportscar. On the highway it is everything you'd want..around town it never seems to be in the right gear.

Now to the question:

Do I need to have the trans mechanically altered or can I reprogram it by electronic means?. Where would I go to get this done? How much should I expect to pay? I live in Cave Creek :banghead

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First off Welcome Eddyboy :howdy

Second - do you know if you have the 2.73 or the 3.15 gear ratio in the rear end?

You most likely have the 2.73s. You can find out by driving on the freeway at 75 MPH in 3 not D. Then look at your RPMs, 2700 - 2.73, 3150 - 3.15, or 3420 - 3.42

gear ratio.

If you watch around the other forums and the local shops, they occasionally will have a used set of 3.42s for about $400 -$500. I can not recall what it cost to have the rear end installed. Hopefully Mike or Chad will chime in also.

I would recommend upgrading to 3.42s and you will feel the difference in the cars actual performance. You will loose gas milage because you are going to be reving higher. But that was fine when I made that change on my 99 automatic.

Hope this helps.

Phil... :devil

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Welcome Ed from Gilbert. Yahoo...I'm the first, since I didn't see a welcome from Phil yet... :howdy

Sorry to hear that you think you may have a bum C5 tranny. I don't know anything about C5s. However, there are plenty of others here that do. Now if your C3 has an issue, then I may be able to help. See you around. :cool

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Guest UVETTYA

Welcome from Surprise :howdy

Sorry, I don't know anything about the automatics. I have to row mine. :lol

But welcome anyway.

Steve

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You can firm up your shift points using a predator, but overall to keep the car in the power you will need a torque converter and gears. A yank 3200-3400 and 3:42 gears will make a WORLD of difference.

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Guest Sidewinder

Totally different car with 3.42's. We had 2.73's in Tanya's car when we got it and it wouldn't even do a burnout. Now with 3.42's it runs 11's. With mods of course.

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You can firm up your shift points using a predator, but overall to keep the car in the power you will need a torque converter and gears. A yank 3200-3400 and 3:42 gears will make a WORLD of difference.

Please tell me what

is a Predator in this context?

what does yank 3200-3400 mean.

This car won't do a burnout on dry pavement,

but (according to my idiot son) It'll go 140mph...

Assume I know nothing and you'll be right on.

I bought some replacement signal lights for the front

the other day and ended up in a starin' contest with

my car.

I don't want to put in a lot of mods, but after drivin'

the C6 I have serious issues with the driveability.

Car is driven ca. 8000 miles per year so fuel efficiency

isn't an issue.

The rear end change sounds OK and a torque

converter isn't beyond the budget. ..I'm too

old and tired to build a race car. ..

I bought the car at CnV, got treated right,

but have found dealing with their

service dept to be a unique experience. Their

work is just fine, but you never know when you'll

see your car again. Is there any place that specializes

in the above kind of enhancements you can recommend?

Ed

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Guest XLR8TNC5

Wow, firstly, welcome to ACE. Secondly, we are more than happy to help you figure out the best way to enhance your driveability and feel of your A4.

But I have to say, I am SOOOOOOOO sorry you ever had to deal with CnV. I have no respect for that establishment and you will find most of the members here do not have any either. Luckily, you felt you were treated fairly. However, they have a reputation of selling high mileage cars above value and most of the cars have "issues." However, I do not expect that you have that situation, you simply probably have the 2.73's in your 99.

A Predator is a software/hardware device that allows you to plug into your ECU inside the cabin and program different aspects of your cars performance. I have a 98 so they do not make them for my car, but I believe they do make them for a 99 and up. I can't give you anymore advice on the matter, as I simply do not have much experience with them, but Im sure someone could help you find one.

Also, Mark (Sidewinder) is right, when I got my car, it was BONESTOCK as well. It had the 2.73's and stock stall. AYEYAIYAI! But I invested in a Yank Super Street 3200 Stall converter ($650.00 used - 2 years ago) and a set of the GM Getrag 3.42's ($650.00 - 2 years ago) for the rear end and the car is a completely different animal. I also put in a Trans-Go Shift Kit ($100 off of EBay, brand new.) I had Xtreme do the gears and converter and it cost me approximately $800 in labor (2 years ago.) I had Paul's Automatic Transmission service do my transgo kit and it cost me $125 labor. Total cost to have a 12.7 sec car on street tires = $2,325.00. I have since done a lot of other things to the car, but by far I recommend doing a stall upgrade and a gear change. You will be happier!

As far as installation of these components, I recommend Xtreme or Arizona Power and Sound. I have never had any problems with either of them.

Tanya

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Thanks for the clarifications...

I was thinking as I wrote this about my old Z28 camaro....It was, well, a Camaro,

but it was in every way a more tractable sportscar. Maybe the 385 stroker and manual trans in it had something to do with it. Biggest problem with that car was keeping the back end from passin' the front end.

I know what you mean about CnV...Last time I used their service dept they had my car for 25 days....22 of them diagnosing a simple electrical problem. When I asked for an itemized bill, the Service Manager acted as if I was challenging his integrity...Hell you get an itemized bill at Costco when you buy steak, vitamins and cherry pie...Their charges weren't excessive or unreasonable...just a bit too informal for me.

I did get a good car at a good price...could have been they hadn't sold a car for a week or so....bought it about 3 years ago when I moved here from Chicago.

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I see that members here tend to acquire the parts and then have them installed...is that the ettiquete of corvette modding in AZ? Serious question...

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3,503 lbs of trouble
I see that members here tend to acquire the parts and then have them installed...is that the ettiquete of corvette modding in AZ?  Serious question...

Actually, that's a good question. Some shops do not like you bringing in parts you purchased elsewhere only to have them just install 'em. If the installing shop also provides the part, they make the markup on the part. If you get it off the Net, from a catalog or other specialty shop, the installing only shop didn't make jack on the part, and so they must make their profit only on the labor. I've had shops tell me they can only offer the labor rate they do if they can also make money on the markup on the part. If you bring in a part, they either get "short changed", or they increase the labor rate to compensate for what they didn't make on the part. I'm not a shop or business owner, so our local shops will have to chime in and let us know if this is really or always the case.

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Guest UVETTYA

:withstupid

I've only dealt with a couple tuners so far, but I don't think there's any rule of thumb. It depends on what you want done and who you're dealing with. I think they'll all work with you.

Steve

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