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Worth the money?


Bigfoot

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Found these on CF.

He's asking $800 for brand new 243 heads with yellow springs included. Would I have to do a cam with this change? I know new pushrods and and head bolts would be required.

Thoughts/opinions?

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Yes, you HAVE to get a cam at the same time, but only because I said so.

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Big Poppa

My vote says buying them as is and bolting them on, not worth the money. If you have them ported first, they would be a help, but you'd be into them for close to 2 grand after shipping. It also doesn't mention if they have the sodium valves, so I assume they don't.

I say pass. Find a used set and have them ported for less money. You're gonna want to throw away those springs anyway. I would also say that I'd only do the heads if a cam is in your future. If you don't ever plan on doing a cam, the heads just aren't gonna help you that much.

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Desertdawg

I have to agree with Chris some...

You don't have to port them to see gains over the LS1's, but you will really want to do a cam while it's apart. I bet you wouldn't get more than 25 HP without a cam...

Look at what a ZO6 gets with cam change and no porting to figure out where you will be!

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Big Poppa

I doubt you'd get 25hp with unported 243's. and all that expense and work for 15-20 hp tops? Not me.

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Desertdawg

Ir your serious Sean, then you better jump on this fast, Bill is a good guy that won't do you wrong!

2003 LS6 Heads/Cam/Rockers (with support mounts and bolts) has, I think 18k miles on them, but they are really clean for that many miles. $750 shipped. Would like to try and sell as a set first...

Might be cheaper without shipping!!!

LINKY !!!!!

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Big Poppa

Would you spend the money to have all that installed to only have stock Z06 hp? You get to spend all the same money I did but you're down like 100 hp. math doesn't work for me. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

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Desertdawg

You spent $750.00 ???

Sean is doing what I would do, a piece at a time, and that piece can't be gold plated. You might say cheap, we call it a budget!!!

edit, I reread your post.... yeah the labor is expensive, but just heads Sean could do himself...

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Wow, so many variables. I have to agree with Poppa I think. If I change just heads then tune, then change cam then tune etc etc. Plus the fact that I'm very interested in making her look better too. I just don't know enough about cam/head work to make sense of it all to jump on anything right now. Not to mention I'd probably have to get a higher stall converter to make driveable. :eek

Anyone have a spare bag of money laying around. :lol

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Desertdawg

I've been looking for a spare bag of money for years now... :ken:

I think the deal Bill has is a good one, your gettting heads a a cam for that price.. I would jump on it but I'm broke.

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:at wits end: man, I just know what to do. The deal Dawg found is definitely the best. Local...sort of...and the complete set-up for less. I would love to be able to do this myself. The heads I'm sure I could do. On the other hand valve adjustment, cam, etc. I'm not too sure. Then there are the other things I'd like to do on the car as well.

Dawgs link should get me to bout 375-400 if I'm not mistaken???

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Bill Reid
:at wits end: man, I just know what to do. The deal Dawg found is definitely the best. Local...sort of...and the complete set-up for less. I would love to be able to do this myself. The heads I'm sure I could do. On the other hand valve adjustment, cam, etc. I'm not too sure. Then there are the other things I'd like to do on the car as well.

Dawgs link should get me to bout 375-400 if I'm not mistaken???

The heads/cam I have are from an 03... so you should be at 405 crank horsepower. As an example... on the dyno I have seen up to a 40 rear wheel horsepower difference between a C5 LS1 6spd and a Z06. But it can very about 10-15 horsepower... just depends on the weather conditions on dyno day... and perhaps the day of the week the engine was built ;)

Hardest part about doing the heads and cam the RIGHT (per book) way is the crank bolt must be turned a certain amount of degree's (I believe 120) post intial torque - which is after seating the harmonic balancer with the old crank bolt. The torque to yield head bolts are the same way. Or you buy ARP hardware and just torque. Important tools to have for a cam swap are a flywheel lock. That allows you to loosen the crank bolt without a big crowbar jimmied in there somehow. I'll tell ya if you like wrenching on your own ride, especially the engine, and want to do it the best way (GM Service style) is to buy the GM Engine Service Kit... which I am also selling. It comes with every special tool you need to change heads / cam. Only need to pick up a degree wheel from Snap-On or pickup the new fancy dancy digital torque wrench Sears has... which, with a push of a button, goes to degree mode.

PS... glad to see ACE is still rolling along... I miss the good ole days with Jack, Joe, and rest fo the crew :) Nothing like a cup of coffee or a Coor's (hair of the dog) at 7:30 on Saturday mornings:)

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Bill Reid
:at wits end: man, I just know what to do. The deal Dawg found is definitely the best. Local...sort of...and the complete set-up for less. I would love to be able to do this myself. The heads I'm sure I could do. On the other hand valve adjustment, cam, etc. I'm not too sure. Then there are the other things I'd like to do on the car as well.

Dawgs link should get me to bout 375-400 if I'm not mistaken???

... and if you bought my heads / cam I'd drive the stuff out to ya. Yes, Litchfield Park is out there... but gives me an excuse to go see my brothers in Surprise :D

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This is very tempting. I'll definitely have to sit and think on it (and talk to the wife).

I could be doing the math wrong, but I have 323 rwhp with my current set-up. Now if I'm suffering 20% parasitic loss through the auto drive line, that puts me at approximately 403 crank horse power now. I know I'd have to see gains over what I'm running now, but how much?

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Bill Reid
This is very tempting. I'll definitely have to sit and think on it (and talk to the wife).

I could be doing the math wrong, but I have 323 rwhp with my current set-up. Now if I'm suffering 20% parasitic loss through the auto drive line, that puts me at approximately 403 crank horse power now. I know I'd have to see gains over what I'm running now, but how much?

323 through an auto isn't bad at all...

Bill :)

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