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Slick 50


Grayeagle

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intake bolts loose is a pretty good indicator ..especially when near the coolant port.

I'm very glad it wasn't combustion chamber related ..that gets real bad real fast.

As it is.. water into the oil is bad enough.

If it were my car.. cleanin the gunk out would be first priority ..lotta ways to do it :)

Every time I purchase a vehicle, I change the oil/filter and add Slick 50 to it.

Here's why .. Car Craft years ago did a 'test' ..they had a Camaro w/small block chebby in it,

..was gonna be a project car, and they had a new motor for it.

They decided to see if 'Slick 50' was anywhere as good as it claimed to be.

They put Slick 50 in it, ran it around for a few hundred miles, drained the oil, and drove the car from LA to San Francisco up I-5.

Zero oil pressure. Lifters and valve train makin all kinda racket.

They said in the article they never expected to get to the end of the driveway, much less cruise I-5 at 70mph (and more on occasion).

It didn't even overheat.

They pulled it apart of course afterward, and the bearings didnt show any galling at all.

Been sold on it ever since.

Biggest disclaimer: Slick 50 doesn't 'work' well with Mobil 1 synthetics and similar.. preferably, run a good quality 'regular' oil for the first run thru (Castrol GTX 30wt is what I use when I do 'the treatment' ..I run it for 3k miles .. then drain it and run Mobil 1 synthetic)

I've done this on '88 Honda 1100 Shadow, '78 Honda Goldwing, '87 Honda CRX, '88 Honda Civic, '71 440 Duster, '75 Chebby 1/2 ton surfer van, '72 Chebby 3/4 ton Ambulance (old tow vehicle ..it was a tank :) '96 Z-28, '98 Durango, 2000 Durango, and now our '98 Vette.

Vehicles always picked up a few mpg, a few mph in the quarter, about a tenth off ET after switchin to Mobil 1.

Kinda surprised me that GM finally learned about it, and required Mobil 1 for the Vette :)

The combination is pretty amazing ..Slick 50 actually fills in scratches and such

(I dont know if its teflon based or not..all I know is it works to create a smooth bearing surface and heat activates it

..anyplace scuffing is happening, it works to make a smoother surface.

Once the motor is treated, Mobil 1 works to keep engine friction at a minimum

..my vehicles have always run just a bit better than the other guys to the point that during the bracket finals

..I had Duster guys with identical setups scratchin their heads tryin to figure out why my car was faster.

Got to the point I'd just tell 'em if I owned their cars they'd run better.

-evil grin-

-Frank

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You rock Frank! I had a professor who was retired NASA who preached the same Slick 50 praises in class - the class was materials and industry process. He put it in his 68 'stang...

I'll plan on adding it with the first oil.

Reluctant to use the Mobil One as I've heard it works "too good" for the older non Mobil 1 manuf engines, slipping around seals and gaskets. Causes engines that did not leak before to do so after switching, 'course I read that on the CF forum when I just got mine.

I am very partial to Castrol though!!!!

Yu should stop by and gawk a bit Frank - would be good to see ya...

Cavalry is riding in to save me...

Peace, out.

MH

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If it were my car.. cleanin the gunk out would be first priority ..lotta ways to do it :)

Every time I purchase a vehicle, I change the oil/filter and add Slick 50 to it.

Here's why .. Car Craft years ago did a 'test' ..they had a Camaro w/small block chebby in it,

..was gonna be a project car, and they had a new motor for it.

Slick 50 is snake oil

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/07/slick.shtm

cliff notes...

Three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. have agreed to settle Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 Engine Treatment were false and unsubstantiated

The FTC complaint also charged that Slick 50 lacked substantiation for advertising claims that, compared to motor oil alone, the product:

--reduces engine wear;

--reduces engine wear by more than 50%;

--reduces engine wear by up to 50%;

--reduces engine wear at start-up;

--extends the duration of engine life;

--lowers engine temperatures;

--reduces toxic emissions;

--increases gas mileage; and

--increases horsepower.

In addition, the complaint alleged that the company did not have adequate substantiation for its advertising claims that one treatment of Slick 50 continues to reduce wear for 50,000 miles and that it has been used in a significant number of U.S. Government vehicles.

Finally, the complaint challenged ads stating that "tests prove" the engine wear reduction claims make by Slick 50. In fact, according to the FTC complaint, tests do not prove that Slick

50 reduces engine wear at start up, or by 50%, or that one treatment reduces engine wear for 50,000 miles.

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Good call Chad. I had heard bad things about Slick 50, but did not know where the info was. :thumbs

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I'm going to add one more slick 50 reply, if there are more then I will split it off into it's own topic.....

Frank, I personally had a crank bearings fail 34,000 miles after adding slick 50..... And they don't honor their warranty!!!!

93 Ford 460ci, slick 50 added at 23,000. Oil changed every 3 thousand miles....

@ 57,000 miles it goes CLANK CLANK CLANK.....

Let me re-state this line again in bold!!!

..... And they don't honor their warranty!!!!

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Guest Sidewinder

DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT put slick50 into any engine with an oil pump!!!

PTFE is a solid, not a liquid :eek

We pulled a guys motor (that locked up) apart who had decided to go above and beyond and put 5qts of slick50 in instead of using motor oil. You shoulda seen the inside of this motor :willy Solid chunks of teflon and the oil pump was frozen so bad we couldn't get the gears out of it.

If you do not have an oil leak now you will not "get one" with synthetic oil.

My advice, Valvoline High Mileage (non-synthetic) and a Purolator Pure One filter.

It's your motor though. Do whatcha like :thumbs

Again, GM only runs synthetic oil because it does not require an oil cooler. That's it.....

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If I remember correctly, Slick 50 changed its formula a very long time ago. I don't remember the reason, whether it was a proprietary issue or a legal one. I understand that 'newer' Slick 50 is not recommended for use in engines.

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Ya, Slick 50, BAD!!! Don't use it. Read the articles placed by Cahd above.

Just adding my name to the list here.

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Sounds like a tv Kaboom ad..............for only $9.99 we'll double the offer and.................

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If you call n the next 10 minutes, we'll send you a bottle full of metal shavings that you, yes you, can pour into your engine!!!

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-shrug- .. worked fine in my cars an bikes.

Still workin fine.

After readin some of the stuff Chad posted .. I am thinkin the switch to Mobil 1 synthetic is what garnered the performance gains over conventional oil.

Of course ..I have never put 5 quarts of Slick 50 in.. just run it for one oil change, it comes out with the change to Mobil 1 synthetic, I don't run Slick 50 as a regular supplement to every oil change.. per the directions.

Shame I still dont have that Car Craft article.

As for personal experience, Duster 440 was the only motor I took apart a few times after treatin it to Slick 50 and Mobil 1 treatment ..

..first time was 2 years after I put it together I decided to change the cam, was just as shiny inside as the day I put it together.. but regular oily changes will do that.

The Honda Civic had 187k miles on it when a rod came apart

.. Honda said it was a material defect in the rod

(they sent a tech from Japan because they wanted to know)

..it had the Slick 50 treatment on day one I brought it home with 8 miles on the odometer,

..ran it 3k miles on Slick 50 and Castrol, then switched to Mobil 1.

CRX had 87k on it when it was totalled

..I would probably still have that lil buzz bomb if it hadnt been.

Same deal as the Civic, treated it the day I brought it home, right off the showroom floor.

'96 Z-28, same ..right off showroom floor it got the treatment..

both Durango's ..my Goldwing, my 1100 Shadow

.. they all showed mpg improvements, and were measurably faster.

As for 'chunks' an stuff building up in a motor

.. paraffin base oils will do that (Pennzoil and some others)

..seen more than a few with buildup even on the pushrods from bein fed paraffin base oils and not changin it regularly.

Learned over the years that changin oil regularly eliminates a lot of problems :)

-Frank (opinions vary) (about 11k miles on the Vette since we bought it .. treated it when we brought it home, ran Mobil 1 in it tho because that's what GM requires .. first oily change was at 3k after we brought it home, straight Mobil 1 synthetic in it from then on.. workin fine.)

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