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Flames, step by step


Don&Patty

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Had an email asking how they were done, so here goes. Will try and explain each picture but not sure it will work. This is my first attempt at something like this.

The beginning:

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Used this stuff to sand with along with water and a fine Scotts Bright pad. Cut the time a 1/2 hour.P1010111.jpg

End results, hood and doors sanded.

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In the booth and starting lay out the flames, The painter is Gooby but had a few problems. Can't recommend him.

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Used blue 1/8" fine line tape.

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Once the fine line was on the car was covered with this. It's self sticking and is 12" wide.

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After the car is tacked and wax remover is used silver tips were applied.

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Next the candy red was applied over the silver tips.

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Next candy red is fogged onto the rest of the car.

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Car is now ready for clear. That's after tacking, and using wax remover again.

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Four coats of clear and there you are. You can see the end result on my other post.

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See you Saturday at Pavillions.

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Looks like a lot of work, but well worth it in the end. :thumbs

I was wondering on the original black paint where you did not spray the Candy Red, how did you get that to look shinny again with just clear coat, or did you buff the paint before appling the clear coat? Just courious.

Phil... :devil

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Why wouldn't you recommend him. I do notice that the flames are not symetrical from side to side. I think it came out real good, what kind of problems were you having with him?

The guy we used for the ghost flames is Can-Am Constructors. He's working on a couple of '63 or '64 Vettes. The flames were symetrical to each other and done freehand.

Andrew

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Problems were fish-eye on the hood. Not much but enough. Clear pealed around drivers mirror and both upper doors. Left blue fine line tape on the car and cleared over it. Had to take a razon blade and peal it out. Had to have someone else do the color sanding and buffing as he would not return my phone calls. Had to have "Bucher" do the pin-striping. His skills are great but he is just in too much of hury. Have owned my own shop (years ago) and have some experience in paint jobs. Things you have to put up with, that's one reason I got out of the business. After he was done it was a "c-." After sanding and buffing and Bucher's pin-stripes its a B+. In two or three weeks will re-sand and re-clear. It should then be an A+ paint job.

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Many years ago, GM, Ford, and Chrysler learned a new trick, anyone at the factory working around the paint were banned from wearing underarm deodorant. Seems that 24 hour protection also emitted chemicals for 24 hours that would contaminate the paint.

Guess what one of the main problems they were having......Fisheyes!

As soon as I saw this picture, I shook my head side to side, and went :o

Always prep & paint with shirt sleeves on...

P1010140.jpg

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