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Need GOOD C4 repair shop


Quiktrip

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Hi guys, sorry I haven't been able to attend the past few events but the vette is not feeling good. Also work and family have been getting in the way :banghead . Anyway I need a good (as in won't pad the bill) repair shop that will work on a C4. As always any help is appreciated :yesnod:yesnod Hope to be back running and see everyone soon, Robert

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I try to keep it short. When I start it up it starts to cycle from rough to smooth every 10 or 15 seconds for about 10 or 12 minutes. Then it runs fine. I have a Autoxray scanner and when it is hooked up it shows the left injectors opened up more then the right when it is running rough. This has been going on for a while so I installed the Delteq unit thinking it was the high voltage part of the opti. Still did it. Put in 3 new O2 sensors, still bad. I know that I need the rockers adjusted and maybe new plugs, but not sure what else. Thanks, Robert :willy

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3,503 lbs of trouble
I try to keep it short. When I start it up it starts to cycle from rough to smooth every 10 or 15 seconds for about 10 or 12 minutes. Then it runs fine. I have a Autoxray scanner and when it is hooked up it shows the left injectors opened up more then the right when it is running rough. This has been going on for a while so I installed the Delteq unit thinking it was the high voltage part of the opti. Still did it. Put in 3 new O2 sensors, still bad. I know that I need the rockers adjusted and maybe new plugs, but not sure what else. Thanks, Robert :willy

Bromley's Performance Corvette

3738 W. Common Wealth Ave

Chandler, AZ 85226

(480) 390-2652

or

ADS

6835 W. Chandler Blvd

Chandler, AZ 85226

(480) 961-8704

http://www.adsaz.biz/

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i don't have any experience with them but EXOTIC MUSCLE probably has more experience with C4 (in my opinion) than the other shops - from what i have seen Bromley is a C3 shop, and ADS is a C5 shop!

if it's the injectors - why'd you put the delteq in?

why didn't you replace the injectors?

does that auto xray have the ability to reprogram the ASR - i'm assuming you have an LT1 because there is no need for Delteq on an L98!

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3,503 lbs of trouble
i don't have any experience with them but EXOTIC MUSCLE probably has more experience with C4 (in my opinion) than the other shops - from what i have seen Bromley is a C3 shop, and ADS is a C5 shop!

Doug Bromley has worked on a lot of C4s, and ADS is not a C5 exclusive shop. They work on ALL makes and models.

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i wasn't implying that any shop ONLY worked on specific models - but my guess is that exotic muscle has more experience with C4s than the other 2

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3,503 lbs of trouble
i wasn't implying that any shop ONLY worked on specific models - but my guess is that exotic muscle has more experience with C4s than the other 2

Okay, but Robert asked for a good shop, as in one that won't pad the bill. That comes from first hand experience. I've used both Bromley's and ADS, and neither ever padded the bill, and both can fix a C4, therefore I recommend either shop. :thumbs

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I've had Exotic Muscle do work on mine before...I was most impressed because when it wwent back together it always looked better than before. Trevor is great mechanic and takes the time to clean everything up real nice during reassembly.

It's nice to hear of other shops that carry the recommendations of this communtiy! :thumbs

MH

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I try to keep it short. When I start it up it starts to cycle from rough to smooth every 10 or 15 seconds for about 10 or 12 minutes. Then it runs fine. I have a Autoxray scanner and when it is hooked up it shows the left injectors opened up more then the right when it is running rough. This has been going on for a while so I installed the Delteq unit thinking it was the high voltage part of the opti. Still did it. Put in 3 new O2 sensors, still bad. I know that I need the rockers adjusted and maybe new plugs, but not sure what else. Thanks, Robert  :willy

When you say start the car, I am assuming its cold. So basically it runs like crap when its in open loop mode and after it warms up and goes into closed loop mode it smooths out?

Also when its in open loop mode its not even reading or running off the O2 sensors , so don't pull any hair out trying to get the left and right LBM's dead even.

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Thanks for the input. It is bad even after it goes into closed loop. The injectors are one year old. The PCM is telling the injectors to open longer so it shouldn't be the injectors themselves. I tried EM (that's the shop on Smith, right?) and they said they don't do much on C4s. I'll check out the others. Thanks again. :drinkers

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I don't know much about the C4's, but do they have and Idle Air Control? Running rough at idle but being fine when the throttle is opened up is a symptom of a bad or clogged IAC. Problems show up more when cold, but with a bad IAC you can also have bad problems like poor idle and stalling while in gear even when it's warm.

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I don't know much about the C4's, but do they have and Idle Air Control? Running rough at idle but being fine when the throttle is opened up is a symptom of a bad or clogged IAC. Problems show up more when cold, but with a bad IAC you can also have bad problems like poor idle and stalling while in gear even when it's warm.

i was just thinking that bryan!

the IAC "should" be under the throttlebody (there's a plate attached to the bottom and the IAC is threaded in there - looks like it could use a 1" socket or so

not sure on the procedure for adjustment

the part cost me $56 at auto zone (for my LT1) but i never put it in

i would be more than willing to lend a hand if you decide to tackle it yourself - but it will depend on "scheduling"

first of all - add this to your bookmarks - it will prove to be invaluable!!!!

http://corvetteforum.com/techtips/viewtopic.php?TopicID=2

you profile says you have a 1994 - so this is exactly up your alley - this article says it was taken directly from the 1994 service manual!

http://corvetteforum.com/techtips/viewsubt...ID=94&TopicID=2

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Guest Simpson36
Anyway I need a good (as in won't pad the bill) repair shop that will work on a C4.

Our car went only once to 'the Vette Shop' and will never go there again.

I'll elaborate if anyone is interested, but suffice to say that the bill had enough padding to make a nice pillow . . and the work was not done right.

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If it just ran bad all the time instead of cycling every 10 or 15 seconds then I would also think that the IAC might be bad or plugged up, but with it running OK, BAD, OK, BAD, for 10or 12 minutes I'm notso sure. Anyway I dropped it off at the Chevy dealer across the street from our house for a Tech 2 scan, and if it shows what the problem is then I can see if it is something that I can do or take it to one of the shops that Dan listed. Will post the results of the scan as so as I hear from them. P.S. Don't bash me too much for going to a dealer, it's just for the scan. LOL :lol:drinkers

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3,503 lbs of trouble
P.S. Don't bash me too much for going to a dealer, it's just for the scan. LOL :lol:drinkers

You're by Chapman, right? I never had an issue with them. They did a good, but $$ job on my '74 Camaro once. I only let them change the oil on my Vette once or twice.

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Scan showed that 3 cylinders were not firing, so we all think that it is the opti. Part of the reason that I think that it is the opti is that I have a slight oil leak from the opti drive shaft and I'm thinking that oil has worked its way into the opti and blocks some of the 360 slits that trigger the PCM to fire the cylinders. Then when it warms up the oil is flung out of the slits and it runs OK. Anyway I'm going to buy the back (trigger) part of the opti and put my old cap back on it and HOPEFULLY that will solve the problem. Will post with results. Thanks to all, Robert :burnout soon I hope!!

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Also make sure that the PCV system is working correctly. If the PCV is not working you can and will develop more oil leaks as the pressure inside the crankcase becomes positive instead of negative.

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Scan showed that 3 cylinders were not firing, so we all think that it is the opti. Part of the reason that I think that it is the opti is that I have a slight oil leak from the opti drive shaft and I'm thinking that oil has worked its way into the opti and blocks some of the 360 slits that trigger the PCM to fire the cylinders. Then when it warms up the oil is flung out of the slits and it runs OK. Anyway I'm going to buy the back (trigger) part of the opti and put my old cap back on it and HOPEFULLY that will solve the problem. Will post with results. Thanks to all, Robert :burnout soon I hope!!

Let me know how bad it sucks to change that puppy, Im due but don't know if im doing it or a shop. (I like the easy way outa crap like this) :)

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Before you go through alot of time & trouble I would remove the ign. module. (Mounted next to the coil on the front of the rt. cyl. head) and bring it to NAPA to have it tested. Alot of times the opti is mis-diagnosed as bad when its just an ign. mod. Very easy DIY, and it will just eliminate one more poss. cause. Many times diagnostics are just a process of elimination. You guys dont know this but I (me & my brothers) own a repair facility in Tempe. We have a body shop and a mech. shop right next door to each other. We don't mainly work on vettes but we do an awful lot of them so if you need anything give us a call. Joe Classic Gold Auto Centre 317 S. Rockford Dr. Tempe AZ. 85281. BTW we do lots of alignments on corvettes (probably the best alignments you will find-there is a difference in alignments). P.S. I am not trying to brag or get free advertising, but to be honest whenever I hear someone mention replacing an opti I am very sceptical because although they do have problems, alot of times they are needlessly replaced due to a poor diagnosis. Not just by the DIY but also by shops.

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Before you go through alot of time & trouble I would remove the ign. module. (Mounted next to the coil on the front of the rt. cyl. head) and bring it to NAPA to have it tested. Alot of times the opti is mis-diagnosed as bad when its just an ign. mod. Very easy DIY, and it will just eliminate one more poss. cause. Many times diagnostics are just a process of elimination. You guys dont know this but I (me & my brothers) own a repair facility in Tempe. We have a body shop and a mech. shop right next door to each other. We don't mainly work on vettes but we do an awful lot of them so if you need anything give us a call. Joe Classic Gold Auto Centre 317 S. Rockford Dr. Tempe AZ. 85281. BTW we do lots of alignments on corvettes (probably the best alignments you will find-there is a difference in alignments). P.S. I am not trying to brag or get free advertising, but to be honest whenever I hear someone mention replacing an opti I am very sceptical because although they do have problems, alot of times they are needlessly replaced due to a poor diagnosis. Not just by the DIY but also by shops.

that's good to know - another shop we can take cars too

who wants to be the guinea pig? :D

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that's good to know - another shop we can take cars too

who wants to be the guinea pig? :D

Wanna paint a 1974 Chevy Vega race car? -- cheap? Do it for sponsorship?

Sorry - the Vette doe not need any work right now and I hope to keep it that way for a while. It will need A/C work next spring so I will need a shop that can vacuum down the system and load it up with 134a and oil again.

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well ive decided to be A guinea pig - hopefully some of you will bite and see what they have to offer.

the "quote" to replace my radiator was a better deal than my last quote - PLUS i don't have to drive to globe to have this work done!

like i said in the PM - i'll give ya a call when i get my car back from the transmission shop and after i get to joes for my brake parts swap!!!!!

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Definitely good to know about a shop where the owner has a vette. As far as the ign. module, it was changed out with the Delteq install. I'll probably be seeing you about adjusting my lifters. Seeya, Robert :bang

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