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LT1 Multi-coil pack unit questions/Delteq compatibility with DynaSpark?


phxscooby101
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phxscooby101

Currently I have a dyna spark opti-spark unit with the MSD an i think its the 600a. I also have an MSD high voltage coil.

The problem is I'm having an intermidate loss of power only in first gear at about 4500rpm,when I mean loss of power its like letting off the gas but its still mashed, it has done this for a while but only every once and a while so its no big deal for me.

So i'm thinking of replacing this unit with the mulit coil pack unit but still use the opti unit for reading the cam position and such. So I'm inquiring about my possible options. I will be installing everything myself and the system will need to support upgrades of a 200 shot of nitrous. Thanks Chad

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I've got the Delteq unit and it seems to be a good upgrade. Easy install. I'm not aware of any power restrictions on it. :thumbs Robert :burnout

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phxscooby101

Hey did you have to fab up a bracket to hold the coils? I don't see that included with there kit.

I did alittle research and it looks like LTCC and Delteg were the only companys offering this type of upgrade. Thanks

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phxscooby101

I contacted Dynaspark and asked them if converting over to Delteq would be an issue and they told me it was not possible for many reasons some include the current housing and extra machining and flowable sealant???????

Now from my understanding the Dynaspark optispark is exactly them same housing but stronger internals and the addition of the vent. How can this be possible?

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92ZR1Wannabe
I contacted Dynaspark and asked them if converting over to Delteq would be an issue and they told me it was not possible for many reasons some include the current housing and extra machining and flowable sealant???????

Now from my understanding the Dynaspark optispark is exactly them same housing but stronger internals and the addition of the vent. How can this be possible?

Sounds like Dynaspark and Delteq don't want their toys under the same hood to me.

MSD's Optispark replacement is where its supposed to be at. I also noticed that accel has recently released their version of it as well, it however looks cheap as hell.

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The bracket comes with the kit. If the Dynaspark is a "plug & play" replacement for an optispark then the Delteq or the LTCC should work. It seems like I've seen on the CF that guys were using the Delteq with after market optis. You might want to do a search over there. :thumbs Robert :burnout

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phxscooby101

Does anyone have a scanner to read codes for a 1992? I'm thinking it may not be opti-spark related but I don't know how to check for codes to be sure?Thanks

I would not mind buying a scanner or laptop to observe the car but 1992 is old and the only scanner I'm familar with is AutoXray. ADS used LT1 edit or tuner cat but I'm not real sure how to adjust or even use. Anyone familar with these programs? Thanks

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I have an AutoXray scanner unit that your welcome to use. Call me Weds. and we can figure out how to get it to you. Robert 6o2-7five7-318four :thumbs:burnout

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92ZR1Wannabe

Autoxray Ez-Scan 3000

I have one and it works great :)

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phxscooby101

Thanks Robert I give you a call I had a hell of a couple of days 17hour work shift and tommorrow I ve got to deal with the Fire marshall and the captain of the city of phoenix. But I will give you a call Sat?If thats all right. let me know Thanks Chad

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phxscooby101

Robert, thanks for letting me use the scanner I have already found what I believe to be the problem.

Looks to be the O2 sensor, i caught it when it happened and currently the O2 went from 814 mv to 0 or 1 mv at wideopen throttle so the O2 look to be acting up. I'm also planning on replacing the gaskets on exhaust system. I currently have long tube headers which place the O2 sensors real close to the bolting up point of the mid section on the exhaust. Previously I had ADS replace only one at the time of the dyno tune back then the O2 on the drivers side was exibiting wacko behavior because it was drawing in fresh air right at the connection point causing a false lean reading. So to be safe I'm going to replace all 3 gaskets and both O2 sensors. I had Bosch in there previously but they look to failing fairly quickly, originally AC delco is what was in there but there real expensive but I'm not going to go cheap since its monitioring the air fuel ratios :bang

A couple of questions that maybe you can answer currently I have no cats can this speed up the failure of O2 sensors?

When reading the O2 sensors how do you which O2 is reading what like right and left side? Right would be drivers side or passengers side.

Again thanks for letting borrow the scanner I going to be installing the parts this week and re scan to be sure everything is cool. :D

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Hey Chad, I'm glad that you found something so fast. I don't see how being catless would effect the O2s since they are before the cats. Usually the right is pass and left is driver. Good luck. :drinkers Robert :burnout

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phxscooby101

Great because when I was scanning I didn't know it could scan both O2 sensors by using the <> buttons I kept using the up and down which skipped over the left side but that happened to be the side I fixed the gasket on. What leads me to believe its the gasket's is because the drivers side header flange actually smacks the frame some? probably from the torque but if the engine is twisting that much under load I can see how the other side may leak under high loads since that side has the original gasket. So anyway since I'm under there doing the O2's may as well make sure the connections don't leak.

Are there any differences between AC delco and Bosch O2 sensors? cost comparison is 22 bucks for 2 bosch sensors and 64 dollars each for the AC delcos? :eek

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phxscooby101

Also I did not have any codes in the computer. :huh Chad

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92ZR1Wannabe
A couple of questions that maybe you can answer currently I have no cats can this speed up the failure of O2 sensors?

I highly doubt it. On a stock 92 exhaust system the O2 sensors are before the converters, so it should have little to nothing to do with having cats at all.

When reading the O2 sensors how do you which O2 is reading what like right and left side? Right would be drivers side or passengers side.

Left = Drivers Right = Passenger

Anyway , just a tidbit of info out of the service books:

The ECM self-diagnostic circuit looks for trends in oxygen sensor voltage. if a trend is detected, the "SES" light comes on.

A rich exhaust trend causes the sensor voltage to stay above 750 mv for too long. This sets code 45 or code 65.

Lean exhaust causes voltage to stay below 200mV for too long. This sets Code 44 or Code 64. If voltage stays between 350 mV and 550 mV for too long, the ECM sets coes 13 or code 63. This indicates an open oxygen sensor circuit.

If your O2 sensors are not tripping any codes, they are most likely ok.

So some things i've found while troubleshooting my car for its pig rich idle:

1. The O2 sensor voltages always oscillate. They travel back and forth while the car runs, the ECM is simply compensating rich/lean for what it sees. Life is never perfect for it per say :)

2. A tidbit of info from the "Corvette Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Management" book

Closed Loop ~ When your tooling along, the engine is operating under relatively constant conditions, but it can handle variations. The fuel quality may vary from one tank fill to the next. Weather and outside temperature may change. It maybe dry or it may be pouring rain. Injector pulse time and spark timing may be slightly different for each of these conditions.

The computer can adjust to these changing conditions with little difficulty. Closed loop can maintain an air/fuel delivery near the ideal ration, and advance spark timing close to knock. It can satisfy the most important considerations of low exhaust emissions and fuel economy.

Closed Loop requires that the oxygen sensor be operating properly and be hot enough to keep switching the voltage between rich and lean. In addition, the collant temperature must be above 105C, and the engine must have operated for a specified time from ignition.

Open Loop ~ Open loop, visually looks the same as closed loop, but operates quite differently. The most obvious use of open loop is at engine start. It also generally operates whenever closed loop just won't do the job. Unlike closed loop, open loop does not use oxygen sensor imput. Rather, the computer calculates the fuel injector pulse width from the inputs of intake air temperature , engine coolant temperature, manifold absolute pressure or mass air flow.

And that finally brings us to.........

Wide Open Throttle Acceleration ~ The computer can provide full power without regard to economy or emission control. In wide open throttle operation, Closed loop switches to open loop. Fuel injection is enriched, and spark timing is advanced to increase power.

So if you've read this far you probably have noticed that your car at WOT is ignoring the O2 sensors and pretty much going off its MAP sensor and fuel tables. If your running lean in this area I would look into having a custom eprom chip burned for your car (did not see it in your list of mods)

Anyway welcome to the wonderfull world of OBD1 and speed density cars, I hope some of that info helps.

PS ~ It seems EVERY LT1 runs pig rich at idle.

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phxscooby101

:D Thanks for the Info. I did have ADS custom tune the chip for my setup and it was having issues the last time because an exhaust leak on the drivers side gasket, which for me is different than the stock setup because my longtube headers have the O2 mounted at the end of collector real close to the connection point. So when John was dyno tuning it the damn O2 on that side would suck in fresh air and the computer would try to richen the mixture. So we only fixed that one side, but the other was doing fine that was 6 months ago.

Whats wierd is the symptoms that I'm having only occur in first gear around 4k when I was looking at the O2 it was about 814mv then instantally went to 1mv. But I'm not sure if ADS programmed the chip to see a/f ratios instead of using the map programmed at wide open throttle. I'm sure it must use some type of monitoring by the O2 at wide open throttle?

Also when its acting up it diffentally runs richer throughtout the entire RPM band, this seems to be a most logical part to replace. Also its not displaying any codes so for me to try and trouldshoot with other than the O2 readings. :thumbs

Can the MAP sensor cause these conditions? Can it be cleaned? I got the 2 large service books but most of the readings send me into loops of other possible causes. :D Thanks Chad

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