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more emissions crap


dcoleaz
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I ran it through the other day and the hydrocarbons were 700 limit is 400. We adjusted the carb and the # were 542 again the limit is 400. I did not observe any vacuum lines off and everything else is working well.

Although closer, it is getting to the point were the car stays running after you turn it off. I have heard all the tricks like, denatured alcohol, ether, and even moth balls (?)

My question for you c3 owners and previous owners is: What would the best trick to use in this situtation? Do i leave it where it is and try denatured? What are the side effects to that? Do i dump it in and drive a little or dump it 5 min before the next test?

Many thanks in advance, Hope to meet some of you soon.....

Daren

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I ran it through the other day and the hydrocarbons were 700 limit is 400. We adjusted the carb and the # were 542 again the limit is 400. I did not observe any vacuum lines off and everything else is working well.

Although closer, it is getting to the point were the car stays running after you turn it off. I have heard all the tricks like, denatured alcohol, ether, and even moth balls (?)

My question for you c3 owners and previous owners is: What would the best trick to use in this situtation? Do i leave it where it is and try denatured? What are the side effects to that? Do i dump it in and drive a little or dump it 5 min before the next test?

Many thanks in advance, Hope to meet some of you soon.....

Daren

to this day i still use HEET gas line antifreeze in my cars that require a sniffer test - it has NEVER failed me!

i have a 22 gallon gas tank and on my last test, i used 1/4 tank of gas and 8 or 9 bottles of heet - however, i have not had a carbureted engine in over 10 years - so use this information at your own risk

and for the record - i took my C4 to have it tested, put the HEET in the tank - it ran fine before and during the test, but as soon as i pulled out of the parking lot, the car stalled ( it was an automatic, and it never had such a problem before) but as soon as i was done, i topped off the tank with super unleaded, and didn't have a problem!

my dad used to put the HEET in his carbureted engines that in no way would have ever passed a sniffer, but he never failed either.

if you plan on using HEET i recommend going to less than half a tank, dump in the HEET and test drive it for a bit, as well as make adjustments to idle and timing to where it runs consistent - if it doesn't run right, you can always dilute it by topping off the tank and try another route before the next test!

BTW - Heet is nothing more than METHANOL - and now that i think about it, it might be cheaper to see where all the forced induction guys bu their methanol and price it out - back in the day, HEET was like 55 CENTS for a 12 oz. bottle - recently, i think i paid 1.15 to $1.25 each

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I ran it through the other day and the hydrocarbons were 700 limit is 400. We adjusted the carb and the # were 542 again the limit is 400. I did not observe any vacuum lines off and everything else is working well.

Although closer, it is getting to the point were the car stays running after you turn it off. I have heard all the tricks like, denatured alcohol, ether, and even moth balls (?)

My question for you c3 owners and previous owners is: What would the best trick to use in this situtation? Do i leave it where it is and try denatured? What are the side effects to that? Do i dump it in and drive a little or dump it 5 min before the next test?

Many thanks in advance, Hope to meet some of you soon.....

Daren

to this day i still use HEET gas line antifreeze in my cars that require a sniffer test - it has NEVER failed me!

i have a 22 gallon gas tank and on my last test, i used 1/4 tank of gas and 8 or 9 bottles of heet - however, i have not had a carbureted engine in over 10 years - so use this information at your own risk

and for the record - i took my C4 to have it tested, put the HEET in the tank - it ran fine before and during the test, but as soon as i pulled out of the parking lot, the car stalled ( it was an automatic, and it never had such a problem before) but as soon as i was done, i topped off the tank with super unleaded, and didn't have a problem!

my dad used to put the HEET in his carbureted engines that in no way would have ever passed a sniffer, but he never failed either.

if you plan on using HEET i recommend going to less than half a tank, dump in the HEET and test drive it for a bit, as well as make adjustments to idle and timing to where it runs consistent - if it doesn't run right, you can always dilute it by topping off the tank and try another route before the next test!

BTW - Heet is nothing more than METHANOL - and now that i think about it, it might be cheaper to see where all the forced induction guys bu their methanol and price it out - back in the day, HEET was like 55 CENTS for a 12 oz. bottle - recently, i think i paid 1.15 to $1.25 each

My question is: Did you really use 8 or 9 bottles of HEET with a 1/4 tank of gas or was that a typo?

Also as a follow up, does bumping the idle speed up to about 1000 rpm help?

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My question is: Did you really use 8 or 9 bottles of HEET with a 1/4 tank of gas or was that a typo?

Also as a follow up, does bumping the idle speed up to about 1000 rpm help?

you are correct - but what you failed to note is that i have a 22 gallon gas tank in my truck - i don't know how big a gas tank is on a C3, but i think my C5 is only like 12 or something

so do the math - 6 ish gallons of gas and 8 or 9 - 12 oz. bottles of heet

bumping idle speed might work, but back in the day, the emissions nazi's said that the car was idling too high and wouldn't even test the car, citing it was unsafe - that was 10-12 years ago, but i doubt things have changed much.

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The first year they started the testing, my truck failed miserably. My brother, the small block guru, leaned the carb to the point it would hardly run . Then pulled the vacuum advance hose, plugged it with a golf tee. After passing, he readjusted the carb, plugged the hose back in. I was good for another year.

He is now gone to the great Chevy Shop in the sky, and I don't have anyone up on the lastest testing. But I did twist in the screws on my 85 K-10 quadrajet last year. :D

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I used this formula on my 72 and it worked like a charm:

Turn the idle mix screw to lean until the rpms begin to drop, retard the timing by a couple of degrees, then return the idle speed to near 1000.

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Thanks guys

I did turn the idle up to about 1100, a tad bit shy.... i did not adjust the timing though. Maybe i should go tht route before any other.

Any other tricks? Send em this way.....thanks Daren

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Ok, everything being equal which means that you don't have any other issues with the motor, it would appear that the carb is maladjusted or something else is wrong with it. Leaning out the carb will work against you at some point when emission testing, running too lean will fail you as well.

Have you taken the carb to a carb specialist yet? If not, try Carb Specialties, 3137 W Virginia Ave

Phoenix, AZ 85009, (602) 278-5140 and ask for Kevin who is the owner. He is pretty good with carbs and maybe give you a few pointers or fix your carb if bad or maladjusted for the model you have.

If there isn't anything else wrong with the motor, the carb is the suspect or something related. Hope this helps and good luck.

You could connect a WBO2 on it and see what's going on with the AFR in relation to the carb adjustment as well, but that's more cash. I know you don't want to hear this, but if the motor is tuned correctly, you shouldn't have to add anything to the gas tank to get it to pass...honest!

Or...You could also just get collectors insurance and be done with emissions forever as well, just another idea. It amy just be cheaper and less headache in the long run.

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basic stuff:

idle screws in until idle just begins to fall off, then back out 1/4 - 1/2 turn.

timing retarded a few degrees from 'stock' settings (need a timing lite to set this unless you have a very good ear) ..this makes the motor run a bit 'hotter' ie: burns the fuel more completely

idle should be set to stock settings ..700rpm or so in nuetral for most cars.

It should run fine this way, and pass emissions if the motor is ok..ie: hittin on all 8, no vacuum leaks, good fuel supply to carb, float levels ok, coil-rotor-dist-spark plugs, wires ok, etc.

Once passed, can set timing back up to best settings for performance

ie: as far advanced initially as she'll take and still start when its hot :)

-Frank (a 'tuner' before the word was popular, and good at it)

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basic stuff:

idle screws in until idle just begins to fall off, then back out 1/4 - 1/2 turn.

timing retarded a few degrees from 'stock' settings (need a timing lite to set this unless you have a very good ear) ..this makes the motor run a bit 'hotter' ie: burns the fuel more completely

idle should be set to stock settings ..700rpm or so in nuetral for most cars.

It should run fine this way, and pass emissions if the motor is ok..ie: hittin on all 8, no vacuum leaks, good fuel supply to carb, float levels ok, coil-rotor-dist-spark plugs, wires ok, etc.

Once passed, can set timing back up to best settings for performance

ie: as far advanced initially as she'll take and still start when its hot :)

-Frank (a 'tuner' before the word was popular, and good at it)

Just a clarification here; By "idle screws" in your first tip, do you mean I should adjust my fuel mixture screw leaner?

Also, my owners manual indicates a 20 gallon fuel tank in my 70.

Thirdly, I want to drive my new Vette anywhere I choose and for as many miles I want at this point. I need regular insurance so it must pass emissions.

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Melissa, that looks and sounds killer, I'll have to call them and get some details...Thanks. :thumbs I hope you guys get your vettes to pass...I feel your pain though. :banghead

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As an agent i have looked into the collectors and do not feel comfortable having that type of insurance when I do drive it everyday.

I am going to carb guy this weekend and will post results or questions if needed.

Thanks !

D

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Upping the idle does help alot. Take it from someone who has made cars pass buy letting it idle high in the past.

One year I was having problems getting the 442 to pass. Fifth, or was it the sixth attempt, I had it idleing at close to 1300 rpm's. I asked them not to turn off the car or else it would diesel for 20 minutes. I told them I was having problems with the battery and they said ok. Of course they turned it off anyways and it was dieseling like a big rig...... Jumped in and turned the key on before it did any damage. It passed cleaner than I would have ever expected. This last time we used Denatured alcohol an upped the idle to 1100. Unbelievable how clean the car was. One quart when filling the tank full to mix it up is what we used.

Andrew

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Robert and Elizabeth

My Dad swore by denatured alcohol when trying to pass emissions. I had a VW GTI that would fail miserably each year I took it. My Dad would take my car, put one bottle of denatured alcohol in the gas tank and then fill it up with gas and then take it to emissions where it would pass every time. You can buy this stuff at a Pharmacy, which is where I bought it back then. Had to sign a book though stating what I was going to use the stuff for. I always put, "snake skin tanner" per my Dad. :lol I don't even know if it could be used for that!

E~

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Update-

I saw this on the CFOT which may be of some use..

Collector Car insurance site

they state no mileage limits or usage restrictions. Sounds like a possible alternative for some of us.

M~

Here is the reply I received to my question about occasional driving to work:

Dear David,

Thank you for considering Sneed Insurance. Unfortunately, we do not allow

driving to or from work even on an occasional basis.

Best,

Sneed Insurance

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Robert and Elizabeth

Update-

I saw this on the CFOT which may be of some use..

Collector Car insurance site

they state no mileage limits or usage restrictions. Sounds like a possible alternative for some of us.

M~

Here is the reply I received to my question about occasional driving to work:

Dear David,

Thank you for considering Sneed Insurance. Unfortunately, we do not allow

driving to or from work even on an occasional basis.

Best,

Sneed Insurance

Yea, they want you to drive it for personal recreation use, not work. It states that the vehicle has to be an extra, and not the primary. Their rates are too high anyways.

E~

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anmracing

Update-

I saw this on the CFOT which may be of some use..

Collector Car insurance site

they state no mileage limits or usage restrictions. Sounds like a possible alternative for some of us.

M~

Here is the reply I received to my question about occasional driving to work:

Dear David,

Thank you for considering Sneed Insurance. Unfortunately, we do not allow

driving to or from work even on an occasional basis.

Best,

Sneed Insurance

Hmm-that sucks. I guess they could have put that in the fine print or something. Heck, I think anytime I drive the car, it's for my pleasure. harumph. :leaving

sorry to lead ya up a blind alley, but maybe it will work for some of the other folks.

Elizabeth-what kind of pricing did you get from them?

M~

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Robert and Elizabeth

Update-

I saw this on the CFOT which may be of some use..

Collector Car insurance site

they state no mileage limits or usage restrictions. Sounds like a possible alternative for some of us.

M~

Here is the reply I received to my question about occasional driving to work:

Dear David,

Thank you for considering Sneed Insurance. Unfortunately, we do not allow

driving to or from work even on an occasional basis.

Best,

Sneed Insurance

Hmm-that sucks. I guess they could have put that in the fine print or something. Heck, I think anytime I drive the car, it's for my pleasure. harumph. :leaving

sorry to lead ya up a blind alley, but maybe it will work for some of the other folks.

Elizabeth-what kind of pricing did you get from them?

M~

Something like $1200 a year for the Z alone. I pay around $1100 a year for the Z and the Denali combined. Even have coverages Chad recommends. :thumbs

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Buccaneer

Any luck or word on the carb yet? Just curious.

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Grayeagle

Idle mixture screws, got one for each barrel on the primary side of the carb, be it AFB-AVS Carter type or Holly, or even Quadrajet.

Turning them in will lean the idle out till the motor dies if you go too far.

Turning them out will richen the idle mixture up till it spits black smoke out or the screw falls out of the carb.

AFB-AVS carter types have both screws on the front of the carb, bottom of the throttle bores.

Holly has 'em on each side, in the metering block, primary throttle bores.

Late model carbs have caps over them to prevent people from adjusting them -evil grin- .. they come right off with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers.

You always adjust them as a pair ..same settings for each.

-Frank

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anmracing
Something like $1200 a year for the Z alone. I pay around $1100 a year for the Z and the Denali combined. Even have coverages Chad recommends. :thumbs

Holy moses! that is a bit painful.

M~

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My Dad swore by denatured alcohol when trying to pass emissions. I had a VW GTI that would fail miserably each year I took it. My Dad would take my car, put one bottle of denatured alcohol in the gas tank and then fill it up with gas and then take it to emissions where it would pass every time. You can buy this stuff at a Pharmacy, which is where I bought it back then. Had to sign a book though stating what I was going to use the stuff for. I always put, "snake skin tanner" per my Dad. :lol I don't even know if it could be used for that!

E~

i remember trying that once (don't remember the outcome) the pharmacist told me that it was a "controlled" substance, kinda like vodka or other distilled spirits - because they don't put the "poison" in it, it is subject to taxes like liquor IIRC.

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