C6 GrandSport / Z06 Brake Pad Replacement

[MidNiteFury01]

The brake pads on a C6 Z06 or GrandSport are a series of small padlets. There are 4 pads in each rear brake caliper and 6 pads in each front brake caliper. If the caliper has a single pad, then the caliper must be removed (not this article). I opted for the stock configuration with padlets rather than the single pad as removing the two brake caliper to hub bolts is not an enjoyable experience. Please do the following at your own risk; 

 

Tools

- 19mm deep-well socket & 1/2" ratchet w/3" extension

- Lifting Tools (QuickJack, jack, jackstands, wood, etc.)

- 3/8 drive breaker bar

- 3/8 driveT45 Torx Head

- Torque Wrench

- Caliper Piston Tool

- Pliers 

- Gloves

- Turkey Baster (to remove excess brake fluid). 

 

Steps: 

 

1) Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheels while on the ground (once raised, the fronts are difficult to remove) using the 19mm deep well socket. 

2) Safely raise vehicle. One can raise just the front or rear, or both. I was also changing the oil, so I raised the entire vehicle. Please lift carefully. 

3) Remove the tire(s) & place a lug nut all the way down to the rotor. This helps keep it in place. 

4) Loosen the guide pins using the T45 torx. There are 6 per each rear caliper & 8 per each front caliper. 

* for the fronts, turn the wheel to gain easier access to the backside guide pins. 

5) Use pliers to grip the small, raised bump on the padlet, and jiggle & pull the padlet out. Do this for each padlet. 

* Check the master cylinder brake fluid level, if nearly full, remove some fluid so when compressing the piston, it doesn't spill out. Leave the cap slightly loose.  

6) Using the caliper piston tool, slowly compress the pistons back into the caliper bore. 

7) Clean off the guide pins (no need for sprays or liquids) just enough so the end rotates pretty easily. 

8) If the new padlets come with anti-squeak gel, apply to the pad friction material backing plate, evenly and in a thin layer. Never on the friction material. 

9) Reinsert the lower guide pin bolts.

10) Insert the new padlets into the lower area, followed by the next padlet & pin set, working from the bottom, up. Wiggle & push the padlet to get the pins to seat properly.

11) The last pins to go in are the upper ones. 

12) Torque the guide pins to 30lbs-ft. 

13) Reassemble and safely lower vehicle. 

14) Torque wheels to spec. 

15) Gently press on the brake pedal until firm with the car off. The caliper pistons must extend outward again. 

16) Follow bedding instructions from the pad manufacturer

 

The first caliper took about 30 minutes, the rest were about 10 - 12 minutes each. 

 

Safely lifted. 

Once wheel removed, use the T45 to remove the guide pins. 

 

Check the fluid level to make sure its not too full, if above the full mark, use the baster to pull some out. 

 

Use the raised bumps on the padlets to pull them out. 

 

I used a Lang Caliper compression tool. Made things very simple. 

 

The tip of the guide pins rotate, cleaning them makes the tips rotate a bit easier. 

 

There are small "springs" which rest beneath the padlets, these need not be replaced unless broken, then the caliper must come off. 

 

Insert the lowest guide pins, then the padlets, then the next guide pin. This way we use gravity to keep the padlets in place. 

 

 

[Desertdawg]

Wow, nicely done. 

I keep putting off doing my pads and rotors. 

[Chameleon]

Wow!  Very nice write-up with pics. . .