Ted Y Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 I wanted to give some information to the group about a great new product I picked up called the D.I. Rinse Pro 100. It is a de-ionizing water tank. It basically takes out all the dissolved minerals and solids in our lovely Phoenix tap water and gives out pure water. Why is this important? If the water has no minerals in it, it dries with no spots. There are several D.I. water systems for sale. One other popular system is called CR Spotless. That system produces only about 400 gallons of clean water before the resin needs to be recharged or replaced. It also limits you to about 2 gallons per minute maximum due to the small filter size. This means you have to rinse using a fan setting or low flow setting, not a full jet. The D.I. Rinse Pro 100 produces about 4000 gallons (10x the capacity) and lets you flow up to 10 gallons per minute (5x more flow). That's about how much you get from an open hose bib at full blast. Another key feature of the D.I. Rinse Pro is the bypass valve. You can hook up your hose and wash you car using buckets, foam cannon, pressure washer, or whatever. Then, simply flip the two valves and the water then flows through the filter resin producing the clean, pure, mineral-free water to rinse off the car. This way, you only use about 10 gallons to rinse spot free per wash. At this point, you could just let the car dry. No towelling or touching! If you got all the dirt off, your car could dry spot free. However, I prefer to blow off the car with my turbo air dryer to prevent dust in the air from getting on the water drops and get any dirty water out of the cracks and emblems you can't always clean behind. Photo time: 1. My tap water has a total dissolved solids (TDS) reading of 484 parts per million (ppm). This is what comes out of the garage hose bib and is used to wash the car. If this water dries on the car, I will get spots. You know how hard it is in the summer heat to dry your car quickly after a wash. 2. The black hose is from the tap. The red hose is the output. The valves are set to "bypass" the filter for the soap wash phase. 3. The valves set to "bypass" the filter resin. 4. When it's time for the final spot free rinse, set the valves to go through the filter resin. 5. The water coming out of the filter is down to 1 ppm of TDS. An incredible improvement! 6. Here is the car after the final rinse with D.I. water before I blow dry it. 7. Even after blow drying the car and trying to get all the water out of the mirrors and cracks, there's always some drips, right? This is water that dripped out from the right side mirror. 8. If you didn't catch that and wipe it off, it would dry with spots. I let this air dry over a 20 minute period. No spots! The entire car was dried without touching. Only blown air and D.I. water evaporation. Very little chance of any swirls with a good wash method. I do not sell these units, or make any money from them. This is just a product I wanted to share. https://dirinse.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2krtaf Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Very cool device Ted! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
az57chevy Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Any idea what a home water softener removes? mice to see the readout of how few solids are flowing through the filter when in use! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 17 hours ago, az57chevy said: Any idea what a home water softener removes? mice to see the readout of how few solids are flowing through the filter when in use! From what I understand, the home water softener removes hardness (calcium and a few others) and replaces it with potassium ions. It does not really reduce the total dissolved solids significantly enough to be spot free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnU Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 I've used a CR Spotless for a number of years for the final rinse. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 I have this under my sink for my reef tank, I get .002 ppm TDS out of it..... at about 2 gallons an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 20 hours ago, Desertdawg said: I have this under my sink for my reef tank, I get .002 ppm TDS out of it..... at about 2 gallons an hour. Do you recharge your own resin or buy new stuff? I'm going to get all the stuff necessary to recharge my own. I washed some cars this weekend and checked my output afterward. It was still registering 0-1 ppm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I recharge my own. I buy mine thru BulkReefSupply. Not sure how much you need but one bag does two recharges on my setup. I only need to change it about once a year. I do the sediment and one carbon filter about every 4 or 5 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 I'm talking about taking the spent cation/anion resin and recharging it with lye and acid, making it capable of using the resin through the cartridges many times. It's much cheaper to recharge and reuse than buy new and it works just as well. My system in this thread holds an entire cubic foot of resin. The canister weighs almost 70 lbs dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCMSH Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 This is all very impressive, but in college I knew a guy who made a bong out of a pizza box and a slurpee cup so there's that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertdawg Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin-color-changing.html i use the small bag. So I just replace mine. I’ve never heard of the recharging you mentioned. I was also going to suggest not getting to anal about it. Let the resin deplete completely but don’t change it right away, for just rinsing off cars I wouldn’t worry until you start seeing 50ppm or more. You used to rinse with tap water and not it’s pure. Letting TDS creep back up some won’t hurt anything and I bet you won’t even notice the difference until your above 50ppm. All your worried about is spots. Don’t overdo it and end up throwing money down the drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Is good you say that. They recommend changing at 50 ppm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jester Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Hey Ted, Got mine the other day and ran the first wash with it last weekend. Raw water was 314 ppm prior to filtering and after filter 0 ppm. washed with regular water and rinsed with filtered water. After the rinse all I did was blow off the excess water and let it finish drying on its own. No spots anywhere! could not be happier. Thanks for the info on this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Y Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Sweet! I love it. I just blow my cars off after wash. No more towels to wash. If the car drips, no spots to wipe off afterward. I also installed quick disconnects on all my hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theChad Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 On 1/8/2018 at 1:41 PM, TheCMSH said: This is all very impressive, but in college I knew a guy who made a bong out of a pizza box and a slurpee cup so there's that I think I know that guy too. He once built one with a water bottle, a hotel BIC pen, a beer can, and a piece of chewing gum. Mary Jane MacGyver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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