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Spal Nuova Fan Upgrade


Unreal

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Swapped a 17" spal Nuova fan. This is the new brushless fan from Spal offered by dewitts. Suppose to be the best out there.

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Has a built in PWM controller. Comes with wiring harness, and its own temp sensor. Soft starts around 170 and ramps up to full blast around 190. Dewitts built me a custom aluminum shroud. So far results seem good. Need to get it out when it is 110+ to really stress it but so far it is an upgrade over the dual fans, but for most people I don't know if it would be worth the money. Dual spals are $400, this was over $700. It did clear up some room in the bay, and it does blow hard though. Anyone looking for the best cooling setup, this is the way to go.

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So far works good. Haven't got it out in 105+ temps yet but at cars and coffee this morning AC blasted car didn't break 200F. So that is a vast improvement. Hovers at 183F or so on highway too. This setup only covers about 2/3 of the radiator so the whole passenger side is open.

While not for every one, anyone that wants the "best" this is it. Other downsides is you do need a tune to use this as ECU will throw all sorts of CE lights for fan circuit since all the factory stuff isn't used. Well, unless you are ok with CE lights.

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So, the fan will run at freeway speeds as long as the temp probe is hot? Is it effective when the car is moving over 60?

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Yes, fan will run if car is at temp.

Well, considering at highway speeds it is running 15+ degrees cooler I would say it works great. I would bet this draws more air through than what makes it through the intercooler, ac condensors. By the time that hits the radiator I doubt it has much umph. I can stand a few feet in front of the car and feel this sucking.

Plus since it is basically a 1/2 shroud, the other 1/2 of the radiator is just open, so that probably helps too.

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What are you thoughts on electric water pumps?

in my opinion electric water pumps by them selves are not good for one single reason.

-they are electric

if power, wires, or DC motor, fails you have 0.0002 nano seconds to stop your engine or you run the risk of failure. (i'm exaggerating of course to prove a point)

BUT, mechanical pumps are simple in nature. they are belt driven. if the belt fails .. you will know.

they do not 'cool any better' you only gain more power but at what risk?

now you integrate the electric water pump with the fan and have them controlled by the PCM, that's a different story.

case in point, my BMW has an electric water pump and an electric fan.

it no longer has a thermostat.

it controls the water speed AND temp for faster warm up and will run after engine shut off for better cool off to assist in eliminating hot spots and better engine wear.

I day dreamed about a kit for my c3 that would require making a custom board and using DC Brush-less style motors for the pump and fans, but that was a long time ago.

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Meziere electric pumps work great, are reliable, and they do cool better for street/low rpm use. They flow a constant 55gph compared to 55gph at 5k+ on the belt driven pump. Problem is they are $650+. If you have money to burn, go for it but I don't see the need. They do look pretty. I have several friends running them for past 6-7 years without issues.

Most common water pump failure I see is the pulley walking off or spinning off. You can weld the pulley to the shaft to fix that on the stock pumps.

As for failure, I don't see a difference in a stock pump failing or electric, you will see the temp go up fast. Your motor isn't going to instantly pop. It isn't like all the c7z hitting 260F+ on road course are exploding. You have a warning, you cool it off. Now if you get the car 250+ and don't stop, then you are just being dumb but even if the water pump fails you have time.

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Fans only work well at low speeds. As you approach 30 mph, the effectiveness diminishes rapidly. By the time you hit 50, the fan is a detriment. A good fan will be best noticed in rush hour stop 'n go traffic that never exceeds 30 mph for more than a 1/4 mile at a time.

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Fans only work well at low speeds. As you approach 30 mph, the effectiveness diminishes rapidly. By the time you hit 50, the fan is a detriment.

you are 100% correct, but i suspect in UNREAL's environment it is different. (one off)

he has enough 'blockage' in front of his radiator (inter cooler, and AC condenser) plus mixed with no top shroud even at 60MPH, by the time the air makes its way thru the front 2 'blockages' it is below 30MPH.

That is the only logical reason why he has reduced temps by adding the electric fan at Highway speeds.

.. now UNREAL if you were to seal the radiator to have zero air spill over, it would be a different topic ;-)

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Also, the new fan/shroud only covers 2/3 of the radiator ,so more area for highway air to go through. The 2/3 that is covered is the part not in front of the FMIC, so that makes sense that it cools better on highway.

Plus I agree, by the time the air hits the FMIC then condensor I bet the fan still pulls good air at 50-60mph. You should feel this thing suck. It sucks soooo hard.

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bet the fan still pulls good air at 50-60mph. You should feel this thing suck. It sucks soooo hard.

not to be a downer, but its more like 10.2 MPH

I could not find the CFM specs on SPAL website (it sucks...pun intended) lets assume an extreme 5000 CFM, thru a 16" circle == 10.2 MPH

so if this was floating in the air and you went 15MPH, it becomes a shield, and not a fan. That's why the 4 one way flappers on the mount.

http://www.engineering.com/calculators/airflow.htm

*link proof*

yea math!!

EDIT: oops your kit does not have the flappers due to the custom rad you have.

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Bromley's Corvettes

I have installed many duel elec fan set ups on C-3s over the years. The cars I wire to a switch you can turn them off at high way speeds and the temp does not change. Unless the engine is a hot runner. If everything is working right the temp does not go up. I like having them on a switch you can shut them off when not needed just dont forget to turn them back on when you in traffic or slow driving lol. I have also run elec water pumps they work as well as a stock pump but you can let engine warm up much faster no pump no fans. It lets you control where you want the temp to a point. The engine will get to its happy place at some point. Cool thing about elec water pump and fans if you ever get hotter then you like you can shut off engine and drop heat real fast. Like in a few mins you can drop like 20 to 30.

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Whatever. It works great, dropped temps a solid 25F, and keeps the car cool. I'm happy. I'm also 7-08 beers deep so happy 4th.

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Bromley's Corvettes

I hear you what ever works run with it:) I was just sharing what works on C-3s while fans being talked about. I am 4 Mikes Hard Lemonades deep so yes Happy 4th lol:)

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Drove it all week. Never saw over 208F. Vette went from hottest running car to my coolest running car. AC blows strong and ice cold all the time now, doesnt even come close to over heating.

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Drove it all week. Never saw over 208F. Vette went from hottest running car to my coolest running car. AC blows strong and ice cold all the time now, doesnt even come close to over heating.

Nice! I can't even say that for my bone-stock-boring car

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