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'05 C6 not starting sometimes


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Our '05 C6 sometimes will not start. It happens about once a month now for past 5 months. It starts fine then all of a sudden will not. Try jumping it and nothing happens. I can hear a click in the engine cab while trying to start. I take out the battery have it tested and it is fine, fully charged. I had the starter and solenoid tested and they are fine also. When I disconnect and reconnect the battery it starts right up.

Has anyone seen this issue before?

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'05's were notorious for electrical gremlins, I recall reading about this issue on the big board a few years back. Let me look-see what I can find

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Are you getting any message on the DIC?

My 06 occasionally had trouble recognizing the FOB but the glove compartment trick always got it started.

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Had a loose terminal nut on the starter of my 98 C5 that did this a couple years back...When I went to tighten it....it was all fragile from heat damage and broke off inside the starter solenoid. Ended up replacing the whole damn thing for a couple hundred bucks. Never had the problem again after that.

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  • 2 months later...

Eddie44: There is no warning on the DIC and battery voltage is good. What is the compartment trick?

corvettech: Yes it is a manual.

Quicksilver98: Thanks for the reply I will look into this.

TheCMSH: Thanks for the reply.

Here is the latest. I took it to dealer and they replaced the FOB register as it was sometimes saying Cannot Read Fob. That was a $600 bill.

The same problem still remains though. I have a new FOB and a new Car Battery. Sometimes it still will not start. It will unlock and there is no warning on DIC. It will not turnover or anything. I figured out that if I remove the ground from the battery and reconnect it will start fine for a few weeks and then it will happen again. Battery voltage is at 14V usually as high as 14.4V. It seems to happen after it has been sitting for several hours, not when it is hot or after it has been running.

I notice there is a clickity clickity click sound behind the CD/Navigation unit before pushing the start button.

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery works every time.

I want to get this fixed but I am gun-shy taking it to the dealer again only to not have the problem fixed.

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Did you ask them about the fuse block? I think there is a TSB from GM on the situation, sounds like the dealership just went after the obvious instead of researching the root issue. Print those forum topics and make the service manager read them

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Will it start if you put the FOB in the slot in the glovebox? If you're not aware there is a slot along the drivers side of the glovebox that you can put the FOB into if you get a "NO FOB DETECTED" message on the DIC. Also I have found that my 2012 gives me that message. Sitting in the car I lock/unlock the doors a couple times and it starts right up.

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There are several reasons to get the "NO FOB DETECTED" message, but if you don't get this message, then it means the FOB has been detected and that's not the problem why the car won't start.

Going back to Quicksilver98's response and tying that in with your mention of having the starter and solenoid tested, makes me ask who and how was it tested? Also, when you say it fixes itself if you disconnect the battery, it leads me to believe the solenoid stuck and needs the circuit to be opened for it to release.

I'd be pulling the starter and taking it to Nasa Electrical in Glendale for a new solenoid under $40 installed. GM dealers do not sell the solenoid separate from the starter and then the price becomes outrageous.

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#09-06-03-004E: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion (Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant) - (Nov 28, 2011)
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules – Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion (Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)

999999995.gif Models: 2013 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks

Attention: This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.

  • An intermittent no crank/no start
  • Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
  • Intermittent service lamp illumination
  • Intermittent service message or messages being displayed

The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.


This condition may be caused by a buildup of non-conductive insulating oxidized debris known as fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector. This may be caused by any of the following conditions:

  • Vibration
  • Thermal cycling
  • Poor connection/terminal retention
  • Micro motion
  • A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement

On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent connections.

On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and may cause a device to become inoperative.

Representative List of Control Modules and Components

The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or component for every vehicle.

  • Blower Control Module
  • Body Control Module (BCM)
  • Communication Interface Module (CIM)
  • Cooling Fan Control Module
  • Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
  • Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
  • Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
  • Engine Control Module (ECM)
  • Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
  • HVAC Actuator
  • Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
    • Any AIR BAG module
    • Seat Belt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
    • Seat Belt Retractor Pretensioner
    • An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set: B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
  • Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
  • Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
  • Transmission Control Module (TCM)

Important: DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:

  • The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
  • The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can no longer be duplicated.

Use the following procedure to correct either of the conditions listed above.

  1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check – Vehicle. Retrieve and record any existing History, Current, Passed and Failed and Failed Current DTCs from all of the control modules.
    • If any DTCs are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List – Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control module/component which may be causing the condition. Refer to SI.
    • If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms – Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control module/component which may be causing the conditionpost-637-0-84853900-1425392503.gif

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will the steering lock or unlock when its supposed to? ive seen a couple problems with the steering column lock system that will cause a no start situation, if it cant tell if the steering is ulocked it defaults to inhibit the starter, if the power mode will go into run mode but just wont crank, try and see if the steering wheel will turn if it does turn the ignition off and see if you can still turn the steering wheel, you should hear a motor move the locking pin and lock the steering wheel.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All,

I have narrowed this problem down to the steering column lock. The car will not start if the column is unlocked and sometimes the column will not lock at all. A few times the column was lock, I pushed the start button, the column unlocks but the engine does not turn over, and the column will not relock after turning off the ignition. Then I unhook the ground cable from the battery and the column locks again and starts up just fine. It seems to happen most often after sitting in the sun for a few hours. I have researched this some and it seems to be a common problem with the '05 C6. There is a bypass module available for $80 which eliminates the column lock from the ignition system all together. The column lock it self is only $50 but require more labor to install.

My questions is, has anyone used the column lock bypass and is that a good solution, or is it better to just have the column lock replaced?

Thanks for all the help and advice.


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I spoke to someone at a stealership and they said they use the bypass if changing the steering lock doesn't fix the issue.

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