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Daddy will I Dream?.. Yes Roxxane, you will


ChadC

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Nice job but make sure you have a check valve somewhere in line with the catch can.

ok nice catch joe THANKYOU!

a question and confirmation

ok so help me understand the chain please

Valley plate ->------ Catch Can->--Check valve->---- Intake Snout

Im defining the Intake Snout as a connector that is 'down stream' of the throttle body.

For reference eforce and OEM set up is:

Valley plate ->--------------------------------------------------- Intake Snout

what direction does the Check valve go?

I assume I want the Positive Air pressure in the crank case to leave and enter into the catch can.yes?

but i dont want any positive air pressure from the Intake Snout to 'backflow' into the catch can.

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You want the check valve to stop pressurized air from entering the crank case. If you look up rx performance they have an install diagram for a boosted setup of their 3 valve catch can. Those 3/8 lines will be more than enough I'm sure for your car. One bigger builds we go to a - 8 or - 10 and use an fittings. I would link it but I'm posting from my phone.

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The hose coming off my oil cap goes to the filter inlet.

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The check valve is installed on the line coming from the intake manifold going to the catch can. When under boost it doesn't allow flow.

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You actually want more than one check valve on a Z06.

You will want one on the intake manifold side of the catch can, that will not allow boost pressure to push back towards the catch can.

You will want a second one in the crankcase vent to the oil sump that does not allow crankcase pressure to push oil vapors into the supercharger inlet.

Let me know of you need a GM part number.

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It is a PD blower, there is only vacuum before the rotors so no check valve is needed. Edelbrock would have sent one if it was needed, but the port it hooks too should never be pressurized.

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It really depends on where the fresh air port is. If it is behind the throttle body, I would run a check valve because roots style blowers can surge. If it is in front of the throttle body, I agree completely that a check valve would not be needed in that instance.

I would still run one between the valve covers and oil sump so that increased crankcase pressure does not shove oil vapors inside the sump into the inlet tract.

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it is a PD blower.

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the connector is at the Yellow marker labeled "Ultra Restriction Inlet Tube" and it is behind the Throttle body.

Im calling an audible on this one, boys n' girls.

That input behind the throttle body is now capped off.

the Valley pan/ crankcase tube is going to be connected to A catch can and then vent into the atmosphere.

Crankcase->------ One way check valve ->----- Catch Can->------ mini air filter (releasing enough toxic gas to kill the one legged spotted dick owl)

thoughts?

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I hope they mean ultra low restriction inlet tube, otherwise :ack

Seriously, though, it is a source of entry for unmetered air that may require some slight modifications to the Low load AF areas. Just make sure you have the tune checked if you notice it going rich or lean during cruise, otherwise it'll work just fine.

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If your venting to atmosphere you don't need a check valve. A check valve is only needed on a sealed system. Personally I prefer an open system, your basically running a puke tank setup now not a catch can.

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On a stock motor with just a PD blower on top I would run the lines as shown in the manual with the exception of adding a catch can between the blower inlet and valley cover just to filter some oil. I personally get annoyed with oil fumes if I smell them in the least and you won't be generating much more crankcase pressure on essentially a stock motor/low boost to justify venting to atmosphere IMO. Either way will not cause any issues.

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thanks for the reply's everyone. :thumbs

well to day was another sucessfull day.

Hoses being buttoned up and getting the new oil cooling system T fitting connected

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well the fuel rails were a real BITCh to put in.

having done this car, I i Ever do another E-Force kit. I will change some of the steps.

like I will attache almost every hose to the supercharger BEFORE putting it on the car.

Charlie and I have to attach/disconnect every dame hose 4 times just to get them routed correctly.

SHE IS ALIVE!!!!!!

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ROXXANE LIVES!!!

after the PCM update she started right up.

Idle justs fine. no smoke, no noise from the engine.

2000 and 4000 RPM just fine.

we had to use a hand pump to suck the coolant from 'Air Bleed Hose' to get in another gallon of coolant. Once that went in she warmed up to 195* and at idle , recovered back to 190*

Oil pressure is good and moves with RPM and temp as expected.

IM going to let her cool off on jack stands to night to look for leaks in the morning. I still need to put on the nose and wheel wells.

there is a faint 'Warble' when I give it 30%+ throttle, that goes away quickly.

its not a hesitation, just a 'odd harmonic' as the RPM quickly rises when I give it some gas.

it may be the By-pass valve doing its thing because there is no Engine load when Im giving the gas.

it may the service active handling, traction control tweaking with the tune. I suspect the SAH, TC error is because the wheels are off the ground when I rotated the steering wheel from Lock to Lock.

I have a friend comming over tomorrow to lend me his ears, to see if im being over paranoid.

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