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Some questions about the clutch?


Phoenix FRC

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Phoenix FRC

I was wondering two main questions about the clutch. 1. is the clutch a long throw pedal, meaning do you have a lot of travel in the clutch? or does that suggest that the clutch is pretty well burnt? I bougt the car used and don't have any reference data. 2. is the effective range in the pedal adjustable? I haven't bought a service manual yet and don't know and haven't looked. Thanks, I appreciate any and all constructive feed back. Later, Thomas

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As far as I know it's not adjustable. C5 clutchs do have a long throw to them. You probably have the marble in the coffee can sound also when turning off your car. Another typical "normal" C5 clutch sound.

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Phoenix FRC

Yep, it makes noise back there and not just when I shut it off, it also makes noise when I let out the clutch in first, I can hear the throw-out bearing spin down. I'm not going to go crazy replacing parts unless any of the noises get louder because all of my sounds are suposed to be normal. Thanks for the reply, Thomas

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  • 7 years later...

As far as I know it's not adjustable. C5 clutchs do have a long throw to them. You probably have the marble in the coffee can sound also when turning off your car. Another typical "normal" C5 clutch sound.

This is a funny statement. Want to know why? Sometime about 9 years ago, I took a Speedway White (Arctic White?) Z06 out for a test drive. Everything was great, until I came back and shut off the engine. I too heard that "marbles in a coffee can" sound and inquired immediately as to what it was. (It sure sounded transmission or driveline related). Well, the O'Reilly in Tucson had no clue, so I walked. Called my old Chevrolet dealership in Tacoma (Gilchrist) and my Rep told me "It's normal." Then after he said it was normal, he explained why the driveline was making noises after you shut down the car. Since the clutch is toward the front of teh torque tube and the transmission is in the back, it takes a second or two for the torque tube to stop spinning. Simple fix? Before shutting down, simultaneously press in the clutch pedal and step on the brake. Brake keeps you from rolling while the separation of the clutch stops spinning the driveline. (or something like that). Marbles gone.
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Clutch is not adjustable. Tick does make an adjustable master that will allow you to adjust if you want. It is a good upgrade. Long throw is normal.

If you do a clutch, do it right and get a good one. A clutch job is about the worst thing to do on these cars. It is a pain in the butt. I've done it 5+ times and hope I don't have to do it again for atleast 30k miles. I've installed ACT, Textrella, LS9R, RXT and a Mantic.

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Are you having any trouble with clutch engagement or inconsistent pedal feel? Either way once you dive into a job like that I ALWAYS recommend replacing the slave as well since its a fairly big job and when doing a clutch its right there. That way you dont risk having a slave/throw out bearing go bad 500 miles after putting in a new clutch.

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Steve is 100% correct. Always replace slave, and always replace TOB while in there. In fact do everything you can while drivetrain is out. Also plan on installing a remote bleeder (katech) while it is apart to make clutch fluid swaps easier.

You can also do what I did, and write nasty messages on the top of the bell housing cursing the top transmissions bolts. They are a pain to get out.

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