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Parts for El Superbeasto Starting to Arrive


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JNMMotorsports

Thanks!!

I'll post a blow-by-blow this winter as this thing gets torn down and built back up again.

Give us some details on the build.

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Thanks!!

I'll post a blow-by-blow this winter as this thing gets torn down and built back up again.

Give us some details on the build.

Sticking with the rear mounts, but having the compressor sides brought up to 60-1. Forged ERL Superdeck short block, with 1/2" studs and stock heads. We made mustangs live past 25 psi on four head bolts per cylinder, I am pretty sure we can do it with an LS motor. Throw in a custom cam, some one-piece exhaust valves and the new Aeromotive eliminator fuel system, stir gently and add a pinch of Katech twin disc clutch and bake. If spool times are a problem, we will add an NX Instaboost kit to kick things off. Looking for 1XXX rwhp.

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JNMMotorsports

Ha Ha

I'll get it. Not an unproven combination by any stretch.

Why half inch studs? From what I've been told the studs aren't going to be the issue it's the heads themselves. I was going to do half inch studs but ended up going with ARP 2000 head studs. Eventually I want to run AFR heads for the thicker deck.

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Yeah, this isn't the most popular mod, but if Judson Massingill thinks I should do it, I'm gonna do it. Essentially we want to eliminate any possibilty of tensile relief. The head is going to move, we know that, but we need to make sure it doesn't lift. The amount of clamping force we can gain from the extra area will get us there.

***EDITED*** Can't spell

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JNMMotorsports

Yeah, this isn't the most popular mod, but if Judson Massingill thinks I should do it, I'm gonna do it. Essentially we want to eliminate any possibilty of tensile relief. The head is going to move, we know that, but we need to make sure it doesn't lift. The amount of clamping force we can gain from the extra area will get us there.

***EDITED*** Can't spell

The issue is going to be the head material lifting in the area where the studs aren't (if that makes sense). After talking with several of the big shops it just seemed like it wasnt going to help much. Your best bet would be to either o-ring the heads or do 6 bolt per head setup. The only upgrade I did on the studs were the better quality studs (ARP-2000). Good luck with your build it sounds like it should be a nasty setup.

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I was going to do half inch studs but ended up going with ARP 2000 head studs.

I'm going to use 2001 head studs, so I should be faster!!!

Sounds like an awesome build, I can't wait to follow along.. Please plan on lots of picture for us here on ACE!!!

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Yeah, this isn't the most popular mod, but if Judson Massingill thinks I should do it, I'm gonna do it. Essentially we want to eliminate any possibilty of tensile relief. The head is going to move, we know that, but we need to make sure it doesn't lift. The amount of clamping force we can gain from the extra area will get us there.

***EDITED*** Can't spell

The issue is going to be the head material lifting in the area where the studs aren't (if that makes sense). After talking with several of the big shops it just seemed like it wasnt going to help much. Your best bet would be to either o-ring the heads or do 6 bolt per head setup. The only upgrade I did on the studs were the better quality studs (ARP-2000). Good luck with your build it sounds like it should be a nasty setup.

I agree, but if the heads are capable of bowing to the point that it allows the pushing of water, it won't matter what stud you use. I have built some pretty crazy stuff, and have not seen head bowing, just some stretching of the fasteners, usually on the exhaust side. If the Ford guys have done it for this long, we can, too. Talked to a lot of 8.xx LSx guys over on Yellow Bullet, I am pretty sure we are OK. :thumbs

I will start a thread when this thing starts being torn apart.

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JNMMotorsports

Yeah, this isn't the most popular mod, but if Judson Massingill thinks I should do it, I'm gonna do it. Essentially we want to eliminate any possibilty of tensile relief. The head is going to move, we know that, but we need to make sure it doesn't lift. The amount of clamping force we can gain from the extra area will get us there.

***EDITED*** Can't spell

The issue is going to be the head material lifting in the area where the studs aren't (if that makes sense). After talking with several of the big shops it just seemed like it wasnt going to help much. Your best bet would be to either o-ring the heads or do 6 bolt per head setup. The only upgrade I did on the studs were the better quality studs (ARP-2000). Good luck with your build it sounds like it should be a nasty setup.

I agree, but if the heads are capable of bowing to the point that it allows the pushing of water, it won't matter what stud you use. I have built some pretty crazy stuff, and have not seen head bowing, just some stretching of the fasteners, usually on the exhaust side. If the Ford guys have done it for this long, we can, too. Talked to a lot of 8.xx LSx guys over on Yellow Bullet, I am pretty sure we are OK. :thumbs

I will start a thread when this thing starts being torn apart.

I think you will be fine too. Can't wait to see the build on this beast. I should have my new build done within the next 2 months. What fuel system are you going to be running?

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Return style, boost referenced. Going to use the current fuel feed line as the return and plumb a larger feed. Running an Aeromotive Eliminator set-up. All in the tank. Going to run Low-Z injectors and a racetronix converter box. Should help the streetability over huge Hi-Z injectors via faster open and close times (better low PW fuel control).

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JNMMotorsports

Return style, boost referenced. Going to use the current fuel feed line as the return and plumb a larger feed. Running an Aeromotive Eliminator set-up. All in the tank. Going to run Low-Z injectors and a racetronix converter box. Should help the streetability over huge Hi-Z injectors via faster open and close times (better low PW fuel control).

Very nice. I'll be doing the same thing with my fuel lines (old feed line as return and -8 as the new feed). I'm going to be running 80lb Motoron injectors (didn't want to run a driver box).

What fuel and how much boost will you be running? Are you going to heat wrap or ceramic coat all the piping on the hot side?

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Everything on the hot side (except the turnine housings) is coated in and out right now. Math says we can get into four digits at about 22 pounds, so we will start with 15 and work up. I run a pretty big meth shot and 100 LL right now (due primarily to the high mechanical compression), will do the same after the build.

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Should easily be able to hit your goal with twin snails. I was looking at doing 1200hp with just a single. But had low end torque issues with the exhaust being I want the boost coming in at a low rpm. So having to go dual also even though won't really need the extra boost. Planning for 800-900 on pump gas and 1200 on race gas at motor. This is not in the vette however. Curious if you will have to do anything to the drysump settup to help with all the extra crankcase pressure.

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Should easily be able to hit your goal with twin snails. I was looking at doing 1200hp with just a single. But had low end torque issues with the exhaust being I want the boost coming in at a low rpm. So having to go dual also even though won't really need the extra boost. Planning for 800-900 on pump gas and 1200 on race gas at motor. This is not in the vette however.

Curious if you will have to do anything to the drysump settup to help with all the extra crankcase pressure.

Very interesting question. Sounds like you have done your homework. As far as cylinder to cylinder pressure pressure on downstrokes, the ventilation windows in the block webbing appear to be large enough to handle that, which will keep the oil scavengindg steady. But I am certainly expecting an increase in overall crankcase pressure. I have put a contingency into the build for a vacuum pump, if necessary. It is not on the parts list, but will be added if we see an undesirable boost in crankcase pressure. I believe that this will keep the oil stable without using some one-off crazy baffling setup. (fingers crossed)

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  • 7 months later...

Aeromotive Eliminator Fuel System arrived today! :partydance: :partydance:

It just wouldn't be right if I didn't share a pic. Sorry it is from the droid, if anyone wants, I will take better pics. We are almost ready to put this bad boy together!

Posted Image

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Why half inch studs? From what I've been told the studs aren't going to be the issue it's the heads themselves. I was going to do half inch studs but ended up going with ARP 2000 head studs. Eventually I want to run AFR heads for the thicker deck.

Yep, been spending a lot of time thinking about this (obviously, I revived a 9 month old thread). Went with an LSX block and LSX-LS7 heads.

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When this goes down, I'm gonna toss you a wrench! And if you duck, I am going to officially remove you from the circle of trust. :lol :lol

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