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So I had a killer stereo system installed, yet it doesn't yet have killer sound. I can't figure out why ! It might be a small issue, but I'm not sure it isn't the Hu or amps or PAC harness.... I've had at least 3 experts set the gains on the system and I still have issues. Can someone here help me ? I have a C6 Z06. If we have a audio guru here please contact me.

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When you say that it doesn't have "Killer sound", what do you feel is missing? Not enough bass? Bass too muddy, or not low and rolly enough? Highs not clear or too tinny? Mids over-powered or over-powering? Awesome sound means different things to different people. Tell me what your ear wants to hear and I very well may be able to help. It would also do well to know what you have in the car, and if possible how it's wired. IE, is the sub wired at 2 Ohm, 4 ohm, 8 ohm?....

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Guest 1FASTC4

So I had a killer stereo system installed, yet it doesn't yet have killer sound. I can't figure out why ! It might be a small issue, but I'm not sure it isn't the Hu or amps or PAC harness....

I've had at least 3 experts set the gains on the system and I still have issues.

Can someone here help me ?

I have a C6 Z06. If we have a audio guru here please contact me.

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Read and heed my Sig!!! Not talking about Don of Mobile Audio! My installer may be an audio champ, but he is a follow up chump!!! Search my threads and you will see whom I'm refering to!

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Guest Sidewinder

The ace member that jacked up the install in his sig is blakmajik. Messed up Tims vette, then disappeared.

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corvettech

ive installed my fair share of sound systems (not sayin im an expert) is the amp bridgable? i was runing a set of 12"s in my truck in stereo for a long time and thought it was great then upgraded to dua mag 12" and 2400 watt amp and thought id be blowing my guts out.... it sucked :banghead. then i wired it up bridged its worked passed my expectations ever since?

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Heres what I have Kenwood dnx9960 HU, Image dynamics ctx65cs front componets, ID ctx5 rears, ID idq 10" sub and 2 Diamond Audio D5 amps..one 600.4 for the mains and 300.2 bridged for the sub. The issue is that i have no real mid or bass in car. If the sub is turned off, then there is no real mid or bass, the tweets are there but not as good as I hoped for either. The ID's should have good mids and bass. I have a few issues. I'm soooo tired right now I can't go into detail...I will tomorrow. Plz check back tomorrow for details.

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Heres what I have Kenwood dnx9960 HU, Image dynamics ctx65cs front componets, ID ctx5 rears, ID idq 10" sub and 2 Diamond Audio D5 amps..one 600.4 for the mains and 300.2 bridged for the sub.

The issue is that i have no real mid or bass in car. If the sub is turned off, then there is no real mid or bass, the tweets are there but not as good as I hoped for either. The ID's should have good mids and bass.

I have a few issues. I'm soooo tired right now I can't go into detail...I will tomorrow. Plz check back tomorrow for details.

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You are not going to like my post.

it has been a loooong time since I was in that world profesionaly, so i am a bit rusty.

I hope you got a SMOKING deal on that system.

The amps were made in 2002 and are going for about $200 each (give or take).

Here is How I would have done things.

1: the subwoffer box is to small. Im guessing its about 0.40 to 0.50 cuF in size. the manfacture says the minium is 0.55. That will move the 'low freq slope' farther up the scale.

Lets Assume you have a 0.55 box (doubtfull) and you are pushing 500 watts max (unlikeley) this is the chart you are looking at.

Posted Image

You start to loose right at 75Hz (the good stuff)

"mid bass", the snap, punch of a snare drum, is around 100hz to 150Hz.

the "Beat" of a kick drum, Bass of techno, starts at 75hz and lower.

the "rap crap" thump down the street is around the 40Hz and lower.

I bet with your car enviroment, the size of the box, and underpowerd sub your slop starts to drop off around 100hz to 120hz.

there is your Mid-Bass loss

2: the Rear speakers are rated from 5watts to 65 watts.

I personally find any company that cannot follow the industry norm of listing the peak and RMS of a speaker to be a joke. They buy from tiawan re package and add on a 200% markup.

.. and the 1980 style logo does not help....

So your 4 channel amp is putting out 75watts RMS to the rears. Right off the bat the 'average' power is beyond what they can handel. Therefore they are creating distortion. What people dont know is when a speaker creates distortion it throws of the amplifier and can create distortion throught all the speakers playing (subwoofer distortion is well know for this).

3: My rule of thumb is a 4 to 1 ratio in power for the sub to highs. Your fronts are 75watts RMS and the sub is 300watts, so you are ok from there. I gotta tell ya tho that is not a 'powerhouse' system. In a vette I would shoot for a 100/400 watts system and upscale to a 150/600 watt system. With that small of a sub box, in a selaed enclouser you can push the limits of power on the sub and she will be fine.

I am not familar with thoes door speakers and do not know what type of efficency they have.

CORRECTION:

I dug further into the specs for the ctx65cs and the instruction book say the speakers are 100RMS (more likeley). Ok so this tell me 2 things. ONE= your 4 channel is way underpowered. TWO= the speaker company is crap if they cannot get their specs right on the website and their hand out.

...lame\

sorry to rain on your parade :-(

cahd

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Desertdawg

...... PAC harness....

Dummy question, why are you running a PAC harness?

I thought they were for hooking up to the factory HU, or is it just to use the factory wiring????

My PAC in my C5 had a knob on it to adjust the output, if yours has a knob then it might just need to be tweaked!

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My Pac is used to retain the onstar and not to power the bose amp, but it does. It's mainly to intergrate the Hu to factory wiring. I feel i have a HU issue. My rcas are not getting a strong signal to the amps. Heres what I got today when i measured the rca's ... I was using a basic 7 function reader. I used a 55hz test tone because my meters paper work said it works between 45-450hz. It also only reads down to 0.1v under that it will display 0.0v. I measured my subs rcas and the main rca's volume 10 less than 0.1v... it reads 0.0 volume 20 less than 0.1v reads 0.0 volume 25 0.1 volt (my installer also measure 0.1xx at this volume) Kenwood said is was low but somewhat "normal" ??? volume 30 0.6 volt volume 32 1.3 to 1.4 volts volume 33/34 2.4-2.7 volts max volume is 35... I read it might clip at 35 so I went up to 34 when measuring. my amp specs say it wants 0.2v to 5 v inputs ... so I don't get that much unless the unit is waaay up. I was told the box is 0.65 or so.....maybe not , but what you cant see is that the box has a area down in a compartment under it. Which is probally .25 ft I'd be up for anyone to go thru my system and check it out. I'm off this Fri, Sat and sunday... I'll buy beers for anyone who can help me !!!! I know is isn't the best system but it ought to perform better than it is. I know the amps are older , but I used one in my last vette and it sounded great ...they are really clean as far as i can tell. My sub amp has cut out on me and wasn't in protection mode... the green light was still on.... There is a kenwood forum talking about how this has happened to others with this HU. thx guys. The Other Tim !

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My Pac is used to retain the onstar and not to power the bose amp, but it does. It's mainly to intergrate the Hu to factory wiring.

I feel i have a HU issue. My rcas are not getting a strong signal to the amps.

Heres what I got today when i measured the rca's ... I was using a basic 7 function reader. I used a 55hz test tone because my meters paper work said it works between 45-450hz. It also only reads down to 0.1v under that it will display 0.0v.

I measured my subs rcas and the main rca's

volume 10 less than 0.1v... it reads 0.0

volume 20 less than 0.1v reads 0.0

volume 25 0.1 volt (my installer also measure 0.1xx at this volume) Kenwood said is was low but somewhat "normal" ???

volume 30 0.6 volt

volume 32 1.3 to 1.4 volts

volume 33/34 2.4-2.7 volts

max volume is 35... I read it might clip at 35 so I went up to 34 when measuring.

my amp specs say it wants 0.2v to 5 v inputs ... so I don't get that much unless the unit is waaay up.

I was told the box is 0.65 or so.....maybe not , but what you cant see is that the box has a area down in a compartment under it. Which is probally .25 ft

I'd be up for anyone to go thru my system and check it out. I'm off this Fri, Sat and sunday... I'll buy beers for anyone who can help me !!!!

I know is isn't the best system but it ought to perform better than it is.

I know the amps are older , but I used one in my last vette and it sounded great ...they are really clean as far as i can tell.

My sub amp has cut out on me and wasn't in protection mode... the green light was still on.... There is a kenwood forum talking about how this has happened to others with this HU.

thx guys.

The Other Tim !

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The meter is new and set on ac volts. It says it has a accuracy of +- 1.2 %. The installer also got the 0.1 reading on his meter, which looks to be much better than the one I bought. It wasn't expensive. So if the box is too small then It won't perform so well will it ? thx for your input Tim

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Not to be a downer but yea the box is too small for that sub. You can shop arund for a sub designed for small enclousers. At one time kicker solobarak (when. They were round) was close. Now I think JL is there. But they are not cheap. And with a new sub, now you have to match the amp to it. You might be able to run the 4 channel amp as a mono channel with 600 wat rms. A good quality fluke meeter is a must. I would test the out puts of the hu at the HU itself to make sure it the IC circut is not toast. Crazy thought....is the mute on? I have made that mistake more than I want to admit.

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I had another person listen to the system... He what he thinks. 1) the front speakers need more power, and to move the tweeter down closer to the 6.5" to improve sound. 2) add a tweeter to the corners on top of the dash. 3) tune whole system 4) run rear speakers off the HU and use 4 channel bridged to get more power to the fronts. Does this sound right ? I just get no mid or bass out of the doors. I'm thinking on going with cheaper speakers and getting 2 sets of Polk Audio 2 ways... they don't need alot of power and sound decent to me... I've used them before and like the silk tweeters sound. The Id's have a silk tweet too I believe. The ID speakers have large magnets and may not be as sensitive (eff) as they what I'm used to. Can anything be done to make the box's SLP better ? Looking at your chart it says I will have almost 0 db ! Are those figures for ID IDQ 10 d2 v3 sub ? If the box was made larger say 0.65 or 0.7 what whould I expect ? thx guys

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this wil be my bias opnion in bold

I had another person listen to the system... He what he thinks.

1) the front speakers need more power, and to move the tweeter down closer to the 6.5" to improve sound.

yes more power. the sheet says 100RMS and the amp is pumping 75 RMS. With a carefull person I would shoot for 125 RMS into a 100 RMS speaker

*note RMS rating is NOT the end all be all. is a simplified way to match conponents.

Yes move teh tweeter. Depending on the crossover slope for the fronts (6db or 12db) you will want the tweet either 6" or 3" from the 6.5" driver (technically center line to centerline).

2) add a tweeter to the corners on top of the dash.

Bzzzttt. gay. adding each speaker to a system will add +3db to the general volume. so adding 2 speakers will add +6db. The rule of thumb is every 10db is a 'preceived' doubbling in audio voulme.

so you will almost have a much louder system but only in the highs. Unless there was another pair of 6.5" drivers, or 4" midrange. No way.

3) tune whole system

uh duh! that term is thrown around alot, and novice installers (or wanabees) thinks it means playing with the treble and base on the head unit. while listening to your faverite song. gay.

actually tuning the system happens during the part selection, and BEFORE the install. You place parts in the doors with wires exposed and use a RTM (Real Time Meeter) to get an accurate analysis of the audio range. then you play and experment with placement of the drivers and take another reading. Example bouncing mid to highs off of glass can add +3dB. When you find the right ballence of sound and function then you permenatly install.

In a properley designed system the HU wil never have to be adjusted and left at zeros for adjustments.

4) run rear speakers off the HU and use 4 channel bridged to get more power to the fronts.

gay. doyou think the amp built into the HU (that is the size of a cell phone battery) is near as good quality as the larger diamond audio amps. sign of an amature.

I just get no mid or bass out of the doors.

underpowered. the amp is not matched to the speakers.

I'm thinking on going with cheaper speakers and getting 2 sets of Polk Audio 2 ways... they don't need alot of power and sound decent to me... I've used them before and like the silk tweeters sound. The Id's have a silk tweet too I believe. The ID speakers have large magnets and may not be as sensitive (eff) as they what I'm used to.

its your money. id spend the money on a biger amp for the fronts.

Can anything be done to make the box's SLP better ?

differnt subd

Looking at your chart it says I will have almost 0 db !

0db does nto mean 'quiet'. 0db is simply a reference mark. X volume created on a cd-> wires->line level input->amplified-> speaker wires->Speaker-> sound waves through the air. from begenning to end there is a lot of places for the sound to get reduced. so there is a set reference mark called 0db that you can adjust your amplfier to so it is at the intended volume on teh CD. Keep in mind alatude and humidity can affet the reference mark too.

Are those figures for ID IDQ 10 d2 v3 sub ?

yes

If the box was made larger say 0.65 or 0.7 what whould I expect ?

go to the website listed in the picture. use the speaker spec sheet from the manfacture, and find out the information your self.. .... im a kind of a 'teach a person to fish' type of guy :D

thx guys

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  • 2 weeks later...

If I change the front speakers (and rears to match) to a set that has 2-3 db increased rating and handle say 60-65rms... How much louder do you think they will sound ? I might change to Polks... I liked them in my C5... hopefully they would sound just as good in my C6. The polks don't need alot of power and have good tone and balance to me. I don't need to listen to my music at loud levels all the time and it seems the ID's want me to turn them up alot to get the sound I'm looking for. I know if I set the tweeter closer to the mid bass It would help alot...live and learn. Anyone here interested in 2 sets of Image dynamics ? 1 set of ctx65cs and 1 set of ctx5's ... both now slightly used !

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Well i think my issue is the HU. I now have a newer issue. I loose the sub and have very weak rear speaker output and no sub output when I switch from CD source to USB or tuner. The amps are not going into protection. My new issue started a few days ago. I'm not sure if the ipod source is a problem yet, I have it out at this time. Anyone ever seen this happen with a Kenwood HU before ? I called them last week before this was discovered to inquire about the low voltage issue I thought I have.... now I have i very noticable issue. I guess I'll be calling them again soon.

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