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Clutch Master Cylinder


Patrick

Clutch Master Cylinders  

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Okay so I often get the "clutch pedal stuck to the floor" problem. Replacing fluid usually keeps it from happening for a little while. I'm looking to remedy it when I get back to the states in a few weeks. I've been searching the interweb for clutch master cylinders, thus far I've come across 3 McLeod, Ram and Tick. The Ram runs around $200 and the other two are $300+. Since I have no experience with this I'm looking for honest opinions on which would best serve me. If there are others that could be better please let me know. Thanks, Patrick

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joe@cpr.com

the tick is the only one worth changing out for. have you tired removing the clutch pedal assist spring? mine would occasionally stick to the floor and since removing it has not happened since and i do also change out the clutch fluid every other month or so.

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I had the same problem and replaced the master with a factory unit, and added a Tick bleeder. I have not had the issue since. I think the bleeder is far more important than the master. You'll be fine with a factory piece.

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the tick is the only one worth changing out for. have you tired removing the clutch pedal assist spring? mine would occasionally stick to the floor and since removing it has not happened since and i do also change out the clutch fluid every other month or so.

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I had the same problem and replaced the master with a factory unit, and added a Tick bleeder. I have not had the issue since. I think the bleeder is far more important than the master. You'll be fine with a factory piece.

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what clutch is currently in the car? If its stock or maybe an LS7 Id stick with a stock master, otherwise go with the tick. I would strongly recommend against getting the mcleod. I had one in my C5 and they are notorious for being very inconsistant as well as leaking internally needing to be rebuilt regularly.

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what clutch is currently in the car? If its stock or maybe an LS7 Id stick with a stock master, otherwise go with the tick. I would strongly recommend against getting the mcleod. I had one in my C5 and they are notorious for being very inconsistant as well as leaking internally needing to be rebuilt regularly.

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My understanding of the problem is this, and it's fairly universal to Corvettes... The design of the hydraulic system is that it places the slave cylinder inside the bell housing, where the fluid is quickly impregnated with clutch dust, turning the fluid black. We've all heard of the ranger method for changing the fluid fairly often.... That clutch dust over time deteriorates the rubber seals inside the hydraulics, and when the fluid gets hot from aggressive driving, the fluid will bypass the piston in the master cylinder causing the pedal to stick to the floor. The problem in my car was drastically worsened when I added long tube headers. The clutch hydraulic line is only a couple inches from the exhaust, and the long tubes heated the fluid much faster than the factory manifolds. When I put the first clutch in the car a couple years ago, I put in an LS6 clutch and a new slave cylinder, and the problem was totally unaffected. This time a few months back when I upgraded to an LS7 clutch, I also replaced the master cylinder (with a factory Z06 unit) and the problem was instantly gone. I can do anything I want as far as shifting and the pedal never sticks to the floor. I also installed a Tick bleeder so that I can far more effectively replace the fluid every month or two when it starts getting dirty. My vote for you is to wait until you replace the clutch, and at that point replace the slave and master with factory units, and add a Tick bleeder. That completely solved the problem for me, and I didn't waste a bunch of cash on hot rod hydraulics when they aren't needed. My car shifts perfectly now and it's a breeze to change the fluid. BTW... I bought my factory LS7 clutch and hydraulics from Carolina Clutch, and those guys gave me a SMOKIN deal. I recommend them highly.

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