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FNBADAZ06 under the knife for diagnostic, repair, and mods


FNBADAZ06

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Oy.......pneumatic wire wheel on aluminum, I'd bet on it. Fuq man.......[shakes head sadly]

 

I don't think it is one of these, because the pattern is not circular.

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Gotcha

I guess it is possible, but they are only prevalent at either end of the block, on both sides. My gut feeling is sandpaper, but regardless of the cause, if the block is to be reused, the deck will need to be milled flat.

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While the 440/454s sound great, I typically see they don't make much more power, just more low end. The heads/intake manifold typically limit the upper power. That being said the MSD and other new intakes may make that a thing of the past.

A little RTV should fix it. Just RTV or even JB weld where it isn't flat, slap the heads back on, and enjoy. 

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While the 440/454s sound great, I typically see they don't make much more power, just more low end. The heads/intake manifold typically limit the upper power. That being said the MSD and other new intakes may make that a thing of the past.

A little RTV should fix it. Just RTV or even JB weld where it isn't flat, slap the heads back on, and enjoy. 

 

And sadly I've seen the exact same thing out of a corvette forum sponser "big name" shop. Friends turbo ls1 popped a head gasket after being replaced/tuned by a shop. The block surface looked like a grinder was taken to it. Heads wouldn't seal. Then again the car had knock sensors turned off and 23 degrees of timing on a stock ls1 short block with 15psi from a 76mm. Wouldn't have lasted long at all but was blowing smoke and eating coolant from the day he got it back. 

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Victor ... sorry to hear this ....

It mite be worth a minute to stop by Vintage Iron and talk to Dave ... he's an awesome BB guys & one helluva machinist .... He may a good suggestion or two and maybe even be able to help "square" things back up for you ....

Hope you get er back up & smokin soon !!!

 

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I'd re-bush the stock rods, replace the pistons and put it back together after getting the deck fixed.  I've got a 442 only because I lost two rods and the crank when mine went bad and I wasn't real enthused about buying a pair of used rods off the net.

It may add cost, but I'd deck the block before ordering pistons in case you need to have a custom piston made for the shorter deck.  With my build, the deck had to be shaved anyways to get the right quench with the stock gaskets.

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I'd re-bush the stock rods, replace the pistons and put it back together after getting the deck fixed.  I've got a 442 only because I lost two rods and the crank when mine went bad and I wasn't real enthused about buying a pair of used rods off the net.

It may add cost, but I'd deck the block before ordering pistons in case you need to have a custom piston made for the shorter deck.  With my build, the deck had to be shaved anyways to get the right quench with the stock gaskets.

If the crank journals and rods pass an inspection, I'll lean toward rebuilding the current engine with forged pistons, etc.

 

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I've seen it and it's .... well..UGLY.

I'm kinda leaning toward Unreal's fix of the block with JB Weld, since all that's needed is just to seal the area between coolant and oil. That method would be my choice if the deck height after a mill cut for minimum cleanup used up too much of the OEM spec. The difficult part would be sanding it down to be flat and on the same plane as the block and also that in order to retain it's location from possible cracking and/or shifting, it would require cutting a groove in the block similar to an o-ring groove. I've had good success fixing water corrosion problems on intake manifolds that way.

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MidNiteFury01

i'm no machinist, nor do I have any experience working with JB in this application, it would seem the epoxy would not be a good long term solution for use in an engine block application. I am not sure if the formed epoxy is subject to brittle failure or if it is more ductile which undergoes plastic deformation or necking before breaking. I do know it is relatively resistant to petroleum based products, but not so much ETOH or other polar solvents. 

So I'm interested in hearing successes associated with use of JB Weld in an engine block. 

Hopefully, what ever the solution implemented, it is successful and your ride is on the road again soon!

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I'm thinking of having ERL do their SuperDeck options to my block, then reuse my cranks and rods and put forged pistons in. Or, just have the dry sleeves put in and use the 1/2" ARP head stud option. I'd have to decide if I wanted to go over the 4.125 bore and order custom pistons. Katech offers direct replacement forged Mahle pistons for the LS7 at 4.130 bore, using the stock 6.064" titanium rod (instead of the normal 6.125" length).

That would allow my LS7 block to survive 250-300 hit of nitrous or F/I at 6-10 lbs, if I ever decided to go those routes, with the much stronger and thicker sleeves and the greater head clamping force.

 

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Don't need 1/2" studs unless you are going 900+ IMO. Good gaskets and studs are more than enough for 850-900rwhp.

Look into RED doing the block. I rather have them do a darton setup than ERL. 

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You'll support more than a misely 7 ish psi lol. Have a friend with a stock sleeve ls7 with drop in pistons making 1050 rwhp and does all the shifs3ctor events, stock rods and crank too. Pull it and give the engine to Kelly, do a set of high compression pistons keep that thing on e85 all the time and either nuke that thing with a 300-400 shot or hit it with 15-18 psi and let it eat! Inb4 people say you can't do high compression and boost :P 

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MidNiteFury01

That was a joke when I said it.

 

I didn't know how to approach that one, since I don't know you or aptitude. Although I suspect someone has tried the JB weld, still would be interested in hearing the long term outcome of that result.

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Don't need 1/2" studs unless you are going 900+ IMO. Good gaskets and studs are more than enough for 850-900rwhp.

Look into RED doing the block. I rather have them do a darton setup than ERL. 

If I'm going to spend the coin to fortify the block, I might as well go full monty and build it up to support anything I might throw at it later. The only thing I might change would be going from the 1/2" studs and use the 6 bolt option instead. I've heard of some people hurting an ERL and posting up about it, but it seems those people forgot to put the oil dumb bell back into the block and had no oil pressure. I 'm looking into what RED would charge to perform a re-sleeve as well, but ERLis the only one that offers the trussed SuperDeck block. I think ERL blocks are still a less expensive alternative to using a RHS, Warhawk, NEXT, et al.

You'll support more than a misely 7 ish psi lol. Have a friend with a stock sleeve ls7 with drop in pistons making 1050 rwhp and does all the shifs3ctor events, stock rods and crank too. Pull it and give the engine to Kelly, do a set of high compression pistons keep that thing on e85 all the time and either nuke that thing with a 300-400 shot or hit it with 15-18 psi and let it eat! Inb4 people say you can't do high compression and boost :P 

I'm still staying N/A for now, but yes...I know I could throw more than 7 psi at it even while running 11.5-12:1 compression on the right fuel.

I'm not sure I would ever go big boost/big spray, but at least with the fortified shortblock, I know I could do it if I grew a wild hair.

That was a joke when I said it.

 

I didn't know how to approach that one, since I don't know you or aptitude. Although I suspect someone has tried the JB weld, still would be interested in hearing the long term outcome of that result.

We discussed the possibility of running an aftermarket head gasket, with material that MAY be able to seal that area...but the reality that I need to pull the block to just hot tank everything, might as well fix it properly. Until I get the chance to have the block inspected and determine how much they would need to shave off the deck before the deck height gets too short, I would be at a standstill.

I took Nick's JB Weld comment as a joke.

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Or trade it for a V10? Apparently all the cool kids are doing it.

I wouldn't mind a Viper along with the Z.

I'm not married yet, so I could pull that off :thumbs

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Or trade it for a V10? Apparently all the cool kids are doing it.

I hear those diesel motors are pretty stout  :lol

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I must admit.....AJ's 2008 Viper had a full Belanger exhaust system on it, and it sounded bad ass.

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OK....so, next up......pulling the motor.

 

I know several members have pulled their motors in their respective garages. Maybe I could get some assistance is yanking the short block....and engine hoist, etc. ? :)

 

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