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Too Hot !


rocknroll

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  • Bromley's Corvettes

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Thanx Bromleys, it's intermitten (SP?) electric windows stopped working, but then worked again. Electric antenna stopped working, blinkers worked, but then didn't.....power to radio is there sometime, but not always. Most importantly, instrument panel lights are not working EVER. Can't see whats going on at night. Aspen Auto Electic is close by in Flagstaff, anyone know anything bout them ? I know electric pretty well, and could fix this myself, but I'm REALLY busy and it would take me a month to figure it out. I'd like to have it up and running before the snow hits.

Thanx

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Bromley's Corvettes

GROUND problem :) Start there and check the very top left fuse in panel should be a 7.5 amp for gauge lights just replace it I dont care if it looks good just put a new one in that spot. Also play with your headlight switch sometimes the ballast gets corroded for age and no use. If you twist it back and fourth a bunch gauge lights may start working:)

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I want to see your vette running at 110%, when we get through with you, you'll only be 5% short.

Dale (or Mr. Mullett) is only good for 5% ... He has to earn his keep around here somehow..

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What Doug said ..... electrical issues are usally "bundled" ... in more ways then one .... grounds are always an issue and a great place to start .... then it's jut a matter of tracking wires and switches .... with the number of intermittent problems ... my bet is grounding ... if I were a bettin man that is ....

for all parts Corvette ... always check with Bruce at Corvette Performance 480-921-1200 Got him on speed dial .... Its amazing to me frequently the things he'll have in stock ... and his online store is tied directly to all the major Vette Stuff Suppliers .... well almost all .... (( #shamelessplug ))

Glad to hear you're making progress on the cooling issue ........ You should be golden by summer !!!

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Update ! Bromley was right, I had multiple problems. The electric fan helped a LOT, and then the Air dam worked noticeably as well. So yesterday I got the kink out of the lower radiator hose. Took it for a longer test ride than usual. 75 degrees today, stayed under 65 mph and it never got over 175 degrees. But when I stopped to turn around and come home, the temp went up pretty quick about 15 degrees. I am curious as to why the sudden rise......any thoughts ??? Anyway, coming home, it stayed bout 180-190. I even pushed it at 80 mph for a short run, it never got over 190 degrees. I can tell that Las Vegas would still be too hot for it, but I can cruise round here enough to get other work done to it. Takin it to Flagstaff to see a friend for some help Wednesday. I am trying to learn what difference each component makes so I did each one individually for each test drive. All that's left now are the seals round the radiator. I'll let you know how that helps in a couple days. I think I might go with the big honkin radiator and dual fans next Summer. For now just glad to know I can get a few miles out of town. Really appreciate everyones help so far ! Not quite where it needs to be yet, but you guys sure got me a long way so far.

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There may have been an air pocket that caused teh sudden rise, but more than likely, it was your t-stat opening, and letting teh coolant flow to your radiator.

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Bromley's Corvettes

I was kind surprised the fan made that much of a difference that shows what a POS your flex fan was.

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Shifty, don't think it could be the thermo opening, it was already about 175 degrees. I have a 160 degree thermo. As well if that was the case wouldn't it get cooler instead of hotter ? In just the 45 seconds it took to stop and turn around, it went from 175-185. Then as I was driving back very soon made it to 190 and didn't come back down much from there. But never went over 190 either.

Could it be that when I stopped I didn't have the highway speed airflow coming through the front to keep it cool, so it heated up quickly ? It never came back down to 175 after the turn around. I'm really curious about this if anyone knows the answer ???

Bromley, I think I agree with you on the flex fan. I was surprised the electric made that much difference too. Guess that means I clearly had an airflow issue. The fan actually forced air through the radiator. Think I'll go with your suggestion, the bigger radiator and duel fans next Summer anyway. I wanna feel comfortable in the desert.

Radiator seals go on tomorrow. I'll give another update soon.

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Shifty, don't think it could be the thermo opening, it was already about 175 degrees. I have a 160 degree thermo. As well if that was the case wouldn't it get cooler instead of hotter ? In just the 45 seconds it took to stop and turn around, it went from 175-185. Then as I was driving back very soon made it to 190 and didn't come back down much from there. But never went over 190 either.

Depends...

Where is your sending unit screwed in. block, manifold or water outlet? Teh water outlet is teh most accurate place for actual thermostat temp, but teh block is more important IMHO. In either case, most cars will run about 10-15 degrees over teh thermostat rating if everything is working correctly, and you're in teh AZ summer. How is it when you turn on teh A/C? While it sounds pretty good now, teh A/C will only get better when you're able to pull more heat off teh condenser with more fan, and less radiant heat from a better radiator.

In any case, it sounds as if you are right there!

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Mine does similar - from a cold start I can head for the freeway with A/C on, get on the freeway and keep going with the A/C on...like all the way to Tucson...and the temps will stay around 170 or less! But as soon as I stop, we're headed for 200 or more. I usually turn off the A/C when it gets above 210 and it will cool down to 190ish, then after a couple of stop and starts from red lights, I'll be moving along about 50ish MPH and temps will plunge quickly down to 180's...then the A/C goes back on. I have a 160 T-stat also.

Good on ya for fixin that shiz yerself...yer almost there.

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HAHAHA, you are assuming that my AC is working ! That's the project for next Summer. That's when I figure the big radiator will go in. This is still in restore stage. It'll be a dependable driver real soon though I hope. I've been trying to post pictures but it says they are too big. I don't know how to make them smaller, guess I need a smaller Corvette right ?

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Update.....took it 90 miles to Flagstaff. Started early morning to avoid the heat. When doing 70mph going up hill it would reach 190 degrees. When doing 55mph level it got as low as 170 degrees even. I was surprised, but I think I'm still going with bigger radiator next year. I'll know for sure when I give it the hot weather high speed test in a few days.

Looks like I'm close. Thanx for all the help so far.

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  • 6 months later...

OK, it's gettin warm again and at last I have a chance to test all the info you guys gave me last year. On a pretty warm day on the highway it gets to about 215 degrees and stays there. Don't think I want to take it to Phonix like that. Does anyone know if that is too hot ? On a mild day it will stay below 200 now. Got an electric fan, aluminum radiator now, straightened the kinks out of the hoses, and a 160 degree thermo in it. But the air dam seemed to make the biggest difference of anything. I was surprised. I wanna thank everyone for all the advice and help ! At last I can drive this around a bit without stressing out over the temp.

Rock N Roll !!!

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Bromley's Corvettes

Sounds like you made some progress but still not there. The cars I build would be around 180 at 70mph and you can turn elec fans off at that speed and temp will not go up. If you where to get stuck in some traffic when its over 90 sounds like you will get hot. I just did a build on a 75 vette no matter how much you run it and drive it even when its 90 out you can let it sit 30 min and shut it off for 5 or 10 min to heat soak and restart and it never gets over 165. It takes long time lots of running and driving and sitting at lights to get it there lol. When you pull on highway temp drops right away.

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After recently getting my transmission overhauled, temperature has been much more stable. Found out TQ was never actually locking up. It drove fine, but was in pretty bad shape internally. Fluid was getting hot and not being metered properly from trans.

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Bromley's Corvettes

Your probably running real lean if your running cooler at 55 mph and temp goes up at 70 mph. Low fuel presser carb out of adjustment and vacuum leaks all cause that:) Temp should go down at higher speeds not up. Just do a nice alum intake and quick fuel carb and new dist and plugs wires and coated headers and true dual exhaust and it will make a lot more power run way better and cooler;)

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Yep, my temp goes UP at highway speeds. So I am guessing it is still an airflow issue ??? But it doesn't get past about 215. I have aluminum, intake , headers wrapped, and true duel exhaust. It has a Holley carb that was on it when I got it. Double pumper with full time vacume I am told so the vacume advance is not hooked up to the distributor. All new distributor, wires plugs and nice tune up. Runs VERY smooth. I'll keep on the airflow issue. Any other suggestions please shoot em my way. Sorry I aint gonna get to meet any of you guys who helped me soooo much. I'm moving to Kentucky in just a few days now. Thanx for all the help last year. Made a BIG difference !

Rock N Roll !!!

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  • 2 years later...

Well hello again all !!!!   Hope you guys remember me. I had the overheating problem bout 2 years ago. I got a HUGE amount of good advice and info from this forum here. I have moved my C-3 unfortunately to KY now. (That is a move I don't recommend to the sane).  At last I am back to work on my C-3 project and was hoping for more insight and guidance. YES, I know this is ARIZONA Corvette enthusiasts but I promise I am coming back one day. So hopefully you will still consider me an Arizonan and help me out. 

    As before, still having a cooling problem. But different than before. I was wondering if perhaps the extreme change in altitude makes some difference. If you'll remember our conversations from 2014 you'll recall that my original problem was staying cool on the highway. Looks like that is pretty much under control now..........mostly...........but I can't let it idle 20 minutes in the parking lot or it will get hot. I'm pretty sure my radiator is adequate for the job so before I go buying a new one I'd like opinions from some better mechanics than me first. Just checking to see if you think I'm on the right track.  I still have a flex fan, but I have a 16 inch electric fan from auto zone, or some other parts house......I don't remember which one. Well in recent inquiries I have been informed by a few people that there is a DIFFERENCE in fans.  I am wondering, (And this is where you guys come in) if perhaps all I need is to change to a dual fan, mega CFM take flight kinda fan system instead of my $55 auto zone special ???   If so, are there any recommendations ?   I have seen some dual fan rigs with flat shrouds that lay against the radiator ?  It seems to me like that would cut down on Highway airflow ???  Any insight there ?   Thanx in advance for any ideas that will help.

 

Rock n Roll !!!

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Bromley's Corvettes

We use Maradyne #MJS22K  duel elec fans on all the C-3 projects we do. The size of wires and how you ground it and what switch or relays and temp switch you use can make a big difference. If not right fans will never work at the max CFM. Also alt and battery become more important, We wont install the fans with out doing a 100amp alt and large battery like a red top Optima or something like it. 

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insatiableOne

on Big hp builds, used to use the dual fan set up off of a Viper. They seem to move the most air I have seen. 

The cheap flex fans do not move as much air as per say the high end from such as Summit Racing. Also try a shroud if you are not currently using one.

 

Are you using a thermostat? if so cut the core out of it and drill some 1/4 " holes around the flange, say a half dozen evenly spaced.  ( this will show if you have a flow issue).  That will allow you to increase your flow while allowing the radiator to do its job. But in the end, your radiator is probably not large enough, or  something may be slightly plugged up.

 

What do your spark plugs look like? Could be gapped too big or simply too hot a plug. Can cause all sorts of overheating issues. A plug at say  .030 could be too cold, while the same one at .060 could literally melt your headers.  Sorry didn't read through four pages, to figure out if your quench area is standard or not.

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Desertdawg

So when your moving its cool but stopped it gets hot ?

 

are you still running the stock water pump? At idle you need flow, if your stock  pump is a few years old or more than there's a chance it's corroded or plugged up some, also C3's had to have all the shrouding in place. It's still very effective at idle for the fan to move the airflow correctly. 

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